Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.
As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”
Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.
The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”
Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”
That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”
Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
Emerald and Diamond Cocktail Ring Two Tone Gold Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ring features 3 emerald cut Zambian emeralds of brilliant color (1.90 carats) and a pavé of round diamond. The emerald and diamond ring features 3 em...
White Diamond, Emerald, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Ruby 9.08 Carats and Diamond Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The ring features a splendid faceted oval-cut 9.08 carats Mozambique ruby of brilliant crystalline red color. The ruby is flanked by geometric rows of custom cut baguette diamonds (2...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Blue Sapphire Diamond Dome Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The blue sapphire and diamond dome cocktail ring features 28.07 carats of oval-cut fine quality faceted Ceylon sapphires of brilliant color. The sap...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Princess Cut Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
This diamond cocktail ring features a geometric design of calibrated princess-cut diamonds for a total weight of 7.10 carats. The 4 laterals of the ring are fully set with a pavé of ...
White Diamond, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Alex Jona Blue Sapphire Dome 18 Karat White Gold Ring
By Alex Jona
Located in Lugano, TI
Alex Jona design collection, hand crafted in Italy, 18 karat white gold dome ring, set with 5.28 carats of blue sapphires. Size US 6.5, can be sized to any specification. Alex Jon...
Blue Sapphire, Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1950s 2.68 Carat Cabochon Cut Star Ruby Diamond Gold Engagement Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An impressive 2.68 carat pink star ruby and 0.08 carat diamond, 15 karat yellow gold solitaire style cocktail ring; part of our diverse gemstone jewelry...
Diamond, Ruby, Star Ruby, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Midcentury 1.70 Carat Ruby Yellow White Gold Dome Cocktail Ring
Located in Stamford, CT
Mid-century round ruby twisted wire design domed cocktail ring set in 18k yellow and white gold. 43 round rubies. 43 round red rubies Approx. Total Weight 1.70cts Size 5.5 and si...
Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Antique Art Deco Platinum Diamond and French Cut Ruby Ring
Located in Great Neck, NY
orgeous Antique Art Deco Platinum Diamond and French Cut Ruby Ring. A beautiful Art Deco ring finely made and features 4 large French cut rubies g...
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Ruby Cabochon Cocktail Ring with Rubies and Diamonds, 18k
Located in New York, NY
A Ruby Cabochon Cocktail Ring with Rubies and Diamonds made in 18 Karat Yellow Gold. The total weight of the ring is 14.30 grams. The ring size is US 6. The diamonds weigh appx. 0.9...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Ruby Emerald and Diamond 18-Karat Gold Dome Ring
Located in Monte Carlo, MC
Exquisite ring with an artful design and make. It is a dome ring with a vivid red marquise cut ruby in its center, from which four lines of square emera...
Ruby, Emerald, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
14 Karat Gold Pearl Emerald Cocktail Ring, 1960s
Located in Wallkill, NY
14K gold 1960s Cocktail ring. Very Mad Men! Center Pearl flanked with accent emerald stones. The ring sits up high (.50in) 4 ring open band with a flower motif setting. Ring is a siz...
Emerald, Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Rubies Sapphires and Diamond 18Kt Yellow Gold Vintage Dome Ring
Located in Cattolica, IT
Vintage cocktail ring ( circa 1950s to 1960s ) set with a cluster of blue sapphires and rubies in a high rising dome mount and one diamond at the top. Crafted in 18 Kt yellow gold wi...
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Bombé Cluster Dome Cocktail Ring
Located in London, GB
This stunning bombé cluster ring is set with 63 fine quality round brilliant cut diamonds coming to an approximate total weight of 4.50ct, all pavé ...
Diamond, White Diamond, White Gold, Gold, 18k Gold
1960s Modernist Carved Two-Tone Coral Stylized Gold Ring
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Striking 1960s ring featuring a two tone white and orange ribbed coral set in a 14k yellow gold brutalist bark and shiny finish mount. US Size 7 which ...
Coral, 14k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Colombian Emerald 2.29 Carat Emerald Solitaire Ring Two Tone 18K Gold
By Emeralds Maravellous
Located in Brunswick, ME
A classic solitaire emerald ring, with a 2.29 carat natural Colombian Emerald emerald cut; medium green in color, and clarity SI, set in 18K white and yellow gold. Currently ring size 7 Condition...
Emerald, Yellow Gold, White Gold, 18k Gold
Domed Diamond Cocktail Ring
Located in Darnestown, MD
Elegant domed cocktail ring with diamonds and a design of intertwined twisted 18 karat gold banding. The ring has a total diamond weight of approximately 1.2 carats; stones are SI 1...
Diamond, 18k Gold