The father of so-called “fabulous fakes,” Kenneth Jay Lane was a spirited innovator within the jewelry industry, designing elegant and luxurious pieces without the use of real jewels. And while Lane aspired to create classic designs for earrings, bracelets and necklaces intended for everyday wear, his pieces caught the attention of celebrities, royalty and socialites.
From a young age, the Detroit, Michigan-born Lane was a lover of fashion. He studied at the Rhode Island School of Design and the University of Michigan. He pursued a design career in New York City, and a failed start in the art department of Vogue magazine led to a decade of designing shoes for the likes of Delman and Christian Dior.
Lane would occasionally develop shoe designs for friends he had in the fashion world such as Bill Blass and Arnold Scaasi. A show for the latter afforded him the opportunity to beautify shoes with rhinestones and create bangles and earrings to pair with the footwear — he found plastic bracelets at discount variety store and had them embellished by craftspeople at a shoe factory.
A love for costume jewelry design emerged thereafter. Lane created his own collection and admirers such as Jackie Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor showered him with praise. A pearl necklace he designed was worn by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. In the early 1960s, ready-to-wear pioneer Hattie Carnegie purchased Lane’s jewelry line. Lane was given the position of design director for Carnegie but he soon changed course, moving instead into a small studio and pursuing his own path.
Lane worked with milk glass, gilded silver hardware, faux coral and other materials, and sold pendant necklaces, dangle earrings and modern bracelets to private customers. He was fond of renowned fine jewelry houses Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels and designers such as Jean Schlumberger, and cited having found inspiration in Egyptian and Indian jewelry over the years as well as Art Deco jewelry. Lane’s designs, which he called “faque” and “junque,” became well-known for their distinctive color combinations and clever characteristics such as embroidery. By the time he purchased a small jewelry factory in Providence, Rhode Island, where his accessories would be made during the 1960s, Lane had secured relationships with top Manhattan boutiques and his work had caught the attention of fashion magazines.
Directed by the filmmaker Gisèle Roman, a 2018 documentary about Lane’s life and work called Fabulously Fake: The Real Life of Kenneth Jay Lane features interviews with legendary fashion designers Carolina Herrera, Tory Burch and Diane von Furstenberg.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Kenneth Jay Lane brooches, rings and other accessories.
Kenneth Jay Lane Gold Hardware "Double-Ram Heads" Double-Strand Necklace
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Jay Lane wonderfully detailed gilded gold vermeil hardware "Double Rams Head" clasp accented with faux micro emeralds and diamonds paired with double strands of faux o...
Kenneth Lane Rare Vivid Whimsical Green Enamel with Red Accent "Frog" Brooch
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Lane rare wonderfully vivid whimsical gilded gold vermeil hardware with Irish-Green overlay enamel accented with ruby-like eyes. Surrounding the eyes are micro studs. ...
Kenneth Jay Lane Brooch & Earrings Set Crystal Seashell KJL
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in Wallkill, NY
KJL Kenneth Jay Lane Crystal Seashell Brooch Necklace and Earrings is a versatile piece that can serve as a brooch or a necklace. It is a gold plated textured shell set with 3 rows o...
Crystal
Kenneth Lane Large Gilded Gold Vermeil Hardware "Lion with Ring" Pendant/Brooch
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Large wonderful large gilded gold vermeil hardware "Lion with Ring" optional pendant and brooch detailed with etching throughout, measures 3 inches in height. The widt...
Kenneth Jay Lane Gothic Studded 'Snake' Pendant with Gothic Rope-Chain Necklace
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Jay Lane wonderfully detailed Gothic "Snake" pendant studded with multi-colors of rhinestones measures 2 5/8 inches by 1 1/2 inches. The matching gothic rope-chain necklace m...
Kenneth Jay Lane Gilded Gold Vermeil Hardware with Optional Pendant & Brooch
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Jay Lane etched gilded gold vermeil hardware accented with multi-size pearl-like embellishments, has the optional choice of being worn as a pendant or, as a brooch for...
Syna Yellow Gold Chakra Pendant with Rubies
By Syna Jewels
Located in Fort Lee, NJ
Created in 18 karat yellow gold Ruby 0.30 ct approx July birthstone Chain sold separately Crafted from 18 karat yellow gold, this pendant features a radiant ruby with an approximate...
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Syna Yellow Gold Mother of Pearl Chakra Charm Pendant
By Syna Jewels
Located in Fort Lee, NJ
Created in 18 karat yellow gold 10 mm size charm Mother of Pearl 3.5 cts approx June birthstone Chain sold separately Exquisitely fashioned from 18 karat yellow gold, this 10 mm pe...
Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Suzy Levian 14K White Gold White Diamond 7 Clover by the Yard Station Necklace
By Suzy Levian
Located in Great Neck, NY
This unique Suzy Levian diamond open clover by the yard necklace displays round-cut diamonds on 14 karat white gold setting. This gorgeous necklace contains 126, 1 mm white round cut...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold
Alex Jona Tahiti Pearl 18 Karat Yellow Gold Cube Cage Pendant Necklace
By Alex Jona
Located in Lugano, TI
Alex Jona design collection, hand crafted in Italy, 18 Karat yellow gold cube pendant measuring 13.40mmx13.40mm, enclosing a 12mm Tahiti grey pearl w...
Black Pearl, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Classic Pearl Strand with 14 Karat Gold Vintage Floral Burst Enhancer
Located in Mount Kisco, NY
Elevate from traditional to terrific by adding this bright floral burst enhancer in 14 karat white and yellow gold to this necklace. Includes a new 16 inch pearl...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Diamond Brooch, Enhancer, Pendant 18 Karat Gold, in Floral Design
Located in Berlin, DE
Diamond Brooch, 18 Karat Gold, in floral design. Brooch can also be worn as a pendant. The diamonds are of very good quality, color and purity.
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
0.25 Carat Natural Diamond & Ruby Brooch/Necklace Enhancer Set in 18K Gold
Located in Tokyo, JP
A beautiful Brooch/Pendant set in 18K Yellow Gold featuring 0.25 Carats Natural Diamonds, 0.08 Carats Rubies. Rubies are referred to as "Ratnaraj" in Sanskrit meaning the King of Gem...
Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
$14,500
H 1.44 in W 1.38 in L 6.88 in
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Pocket Watch Pendant Platinum Diamond Estate Jewelry
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A rare vintage Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Revival pocket watch made in platinum and accentuated with round transitional cut diamonds. This classic Art Deco style Tiffany watch can be worn as a pendant. The proportions of the face and the square shape case are perfectly balanced. Alternated polished and matte finish platinum steps decorate both sides of the case. The face’s perimeter is adorned with the round cut and baguette cut diamonds. The dial has onyx round hour markers and equipped with the sword style hands. The movement is mechanical, manual-wind. The vintage pocket watch pendant is made of platinum and set with round transitional cut diamonds (H-I color, VS clarity, total weight approximately 0.80 carat). The vintage Tiffany pendant...
Diamond, Platinum
$6,799
W 1.75 in L 1.75 in
Vintage French Snowflake 18K Rose Gold This exquisite Vintag Cluster Diamond Pin
Located in Miami, FL
This exquisite Vintage High Quality made Diamond Snowfleks Brooch pin is made of solid 18K Rose gold. This stunning 1960's pin is set with round-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2...
Diamond, Rose Gold
Italian Designer Toliro Emerald and Diamond Convertible 18 Karat Brooch Pendant
Located in beverly hills, CA
This versatile piece features a gorgeous open work spherical design fabricated in 18 karat yellow and white gold highlighting a vibrant green emerald center weighing approximately .2...
Diamond, Emerald, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
French Rock Crystal "Pools of Light" Locket With Gold Frame
Located in New York, NY
A great antique 'Pool of Light' locket in rock crystal and 18K gold. This locket can be also purchased with floating diamonds if you wish. It looks wonderful as a fob on a watch cha...
Rock Crystal, 14k Gold, Gold, 15k Gold, 18k Gold
Suzy Levian Sterling Silver Sapphire and Diamond Accent Pave Cluster Necklace
By Suzy Levian
Located in Great Neck, NY
Enjoy beachy blues all year long with sapphire hues. A cluster of pave natural blue sapphires are hand-set in a sterling silver setting, attached by both sides to an 18" necklace to ...
Diamond, Sapphire, Sterling Silver
Kenneth Jay Lane Medium-Size Black Rhinestone 'Snake' Pendant and Necklace Set
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Kenneth Jay Lane's medium-size black 'snake' encrusted with rhinestones pendant hangs whimsically on a black rope hardware necklace. The necklace meas...
Kenneth J Lane KLJ Purple Cabochon Pearl Rhinestone Enhancer-Brooch Pin- 1990s
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in Wallkill, NY
Stunning KJL Enhancer - Brooch with Pearls, Rhinestones and a wonderful purple Cabochon Center. This un-clips from your necklace as well as being a pin...
Signed Kenneth Lane "Egg Corn" pendant
By Kenneth Jay Lane
Located in New York, NY
Signed Kenneth Lane "Egg Corn" pendant in gold and silver. Measures 1 1/2" x 1 1/2", depth is 3/4".