Throughout the early 20th century, Marcus & Co. established a reputation as one of the finest American producers of Art Nouveau jewelry. The firm’s innovative techniques included the use of plique-à-jour enameling. During the 1900s, this rare method was used by only three other jewelry companies in the United States — Tiffany & Co., Riker Bros. and Whiteside and Blank.
Marcus & Co. was founded in 1892, in New York City, by Herman Marcus and his son William. Herman was born and raised in Germany, where he worked as a jeweler for Ellemeyer, the court jewelers of Dresden, before moving to the United States in 1850.
After arriving in New York City, Herman worked as a designer at several prestigious luxury firms, including Ball, Black & Co., Tiffany & Co. and was a partner at Starr and Marcus before he went into business with William. Later, they were joined by Herman’s other son, George.
Herman worked with his sons until his death in 1899, when William and George expanded the firm to include a silversmithing department to make serveware. However, Marcus & Co. focused mainly on jewelry design and manufacturing, offering Revival-style pieces.
In 1900, the company exhibited a series of striking orchid motif brooches at the Exposition Universelle in Paris. The brooches attracted critical acclaim for their plique-à-jour enameling and intricate detail — characteristics that would become Marcus & Co.’s signature.
The company’s Art Nouveau jewelry took shape during the 1920s and 1930s. Cocktail rings, engagement rings, necklaces and cufflinks featured fine diamonds, natural pearls and gems rarely seen during that period, such as peridots, zircons, spinels and chrysoberyls. Marcus & Co.’s designs were comparable by critics to fine art jewelry made by René Lalique and attracted high-profile clientele like business tycoon John D. Rockefeller.
Despite Marcus & Co.’s success, the firm closed briefly during World War II. In 1962, they merged with the company Black, Starr & Frost.
Marcus & Co. pieces are still highly coveted among jewelry collectors. The firm’s Art Nouveau plique-à-jour accessories, a technique that sees enamel powder applied to cells on a thin sheet of copper foil or mica and then etched away — instead applying the enamel directly to metal — are particularly collectible. In 2011, a Morning Glory plique-à-jour pendant brooch and chain made in 1900 sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $302,500.
On 1stDibs, discover antique Marcus & Co. brooches, rings and decorative objects.
Marcus & Co. Art Deco Egyptian Revival Enamel 14 Karat Gold Antique Cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Designed as link-style cufflinks terminating with oval-shaped faces With stylized gold lotus flower, pharaoh, Eye of Horus, and a sphinx Each raised with grooved detailing - atop ena...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Mens Antique Marcus & Co. 14k Gold Chinese Character Framed Round Disc Cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Montclair, NJ
These fine antique cuff links are designed by Marcus & Co. and crafted from solid 14k yellow gold during the art nouveau period. They feature round ...
14k Gold
$2,687 / set
Dm 0.75 in
Vintage Tiffany & Co. Disc Style 14 Karat Yellow Gold Cufflinks with Sapphires
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
Add a refined touch to your formal attire with this exquisite pair of vintage Tiffany & Co. cufflinks, crafted in timeless 14 karat yellow gold. The disc-shaped design features a cap...
Sapphire, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. 14 Karat Yellow Gold Men's Cufflinks
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
TIFFANY & CO. 14K YELLOW GOLD MENS CUFFLINKS. Mint condition 14k Yellow Gold Dimension: 0.5x0.7” Weight: 14.8 gr *Comes with Tiffany pouch.
Yellow Gold
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Yellow Enamel and Gold Cufflinks
By Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York City, NY
Fine pair of 18K yellow gold and yellow enamel cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger. Of very fine enamel quality and scarcity because of their design and French make. Hallmarks:...
18k Gold, Gold, Enamel
Art Deco Red Enamel Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
Attractive and unusual Art Deco back to back cuff links of rhodium plated metal with red transluscent hard enamel. 1920's USA. Excellent Condition. Length 13 mm, Width 11 mm.
Base Metal, Enamel
Vintage Cartier 14k Gold Barbell Cufflinks, Men's Jewelry, 1970s
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage Cartier 14k Gold Barbell Cufflinks Signed 'Cartier 14k' Wear is consistent with vintage condition 9 grams
14k Gold
$1,990 / set
W 0.79 in L 1.15 in
Pair Antique 14K Gold Green Guilloche Enamel, Pearl, White Enamel Eye Cufflinks
Located in New York, NY
Eye of Protection jewels have been a classic amulet for centuries, designed to attract positive energy. This pair of green guilloche enamel cufflinks...
Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Art Deco Yellow Gold Enamel Horse Cufflinks, Circa 1930s, UK
Located in Firenze, IT
Depicting four horse heads.
Yellow Gold, Gold, Enamel
Tiffany & Co. Red and Green Enamel Gold Cufflinks
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A Tiffany & Co. original, these gold enameled cufflinks were made in Birmingham, England in the late 1980’s, as seen in the assay marks. Made in 18K yellow gold, these cufflinks meas...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Fully Customized 18 Karat Gold 2-3 Characters Diamond Men's Cufflinks
By Vitale 1913
Located in Monte-Carlo, MC
We offer you the opportunity to design your made to measure cufflinks. A very distinguish and genderless way to wear beautiful pieces of jewelry for every occasion. The personalized ...
Agate, Amazonite, Carnelian, Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Onyx, Opal, Natural ...
$11,160Sale Price / set|20% Off
H 0.51 in W 0.51 in L 1.1 in
MARCUS & CO. 1920 Art-Deco Cufflinks In 18Kt Gold With Calibre Cut Gemstones
Located in Miami, FL
An art-deco cufflinks attributed to Marcus & Co. This is a fabulous pair of antique cufflinks created in New York City and attributed to the iconic jewelry designers and makers of Marcus & Co., back in 1920-1925. The pair of cufflinks are quite extravagant and unique since its style, the motifs and the gemstones displayed. The design show an ancient Greek warrior wearing a Corinthian helmet masterfully crafted with geometric patterns in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with polished finish. The entire surfaces are embellished with calibre cut specially carved from natural gemstones, such; calibrated rose cuts diamonds, green emeralds, vivid red rubies and blue sapphires. They are fitted with flexible chained links and almond shaped toggles. They are an exceptional pieces of art accompanied by an antique presentation jewelry box from the same period. Country: New York City, United States. Style: American Art Deco. Period: 1920-1925. Diamonds: Mounted in pave settings, with 54 calibrated old European rose cut diamonds, with a combined total weight of about 0.81 carats, white colorless G/H color, SI clarity. Gemstones: Mounted in millegrain bezel settings, with 60 mixed calibre cut of natural rubies, green emeralds and blue sapphires, with a combined total weight of about 4 carats. Weight: 10.20 Grams, (6.55 Dwt). Measurements: 13 mm by 13 mm by 28 mm (0.51 x 0.51 x 1.10 Inches). Hallmarks: Unmarked and electronically tested for the assay and warranty of the 18kt yellow gold with result as follows, ".750/.999 Au.". Marcus & Co. Marcus & Co. was an American jeweler, based in New York City, famous for their high-quality Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. Herman Marcus, a jeweler from Germany, founded the company with his son William in 1892. Prior to moving to New York City in 1850, Herman Marcus had worked for Erlenmeyer, a prestigious court jeweler in Dresden. It was in Europe that he discovered enameling techniques which were not common in the US at that time. When he settled in the US it was his knowledge and savoir-faire which won him jobs at Ball, Black & Co. (later Black, Star & Frost), and Tiffany & Co. Marcus & Co. is known for their delicate plique-à-jour enamel pieces in the Art Nouveau style and the diamond jewelry they produced in the 1920s and 30s. In 1900, the firm exhibited beautiful orchid motif brooches, featuring piqué-à-jour enameling, at Paris’s Exposition Universelle. The firm’s designs were of high quality, and are still among the best examples of American Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry...
Diamond, White Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Gold, Ye...
$1,096
H 0.52 in W 0.52 in
Antique 9ct Gold 1920s Art Deco Octagonal Shaped Engine Turned Enamel Cufflinks
Located in Brighton, GB
Antique Gold Cufflinks 9ct Gold Circa 1920s Makers Mark J W Elevate your accessory game with these stunning 9ct rose gold stamped cufflinks...
Gold, 9k Gold, Enamel
White Enamel, Diamond and Gold Cufflinks, Art Deco, 1920s
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
An Art Deco pair of white enamel, diamond and gold cufflinks, ca. 1920s. They are square shaped, each with an old cut diamond in the centre and a geometric white enamel border - inspired by Egyptian architecture. The elegant combination and contrast of the white enamel with the diamond and gold gives the cufflinks a unique and universal design...
Diamond, Gold, Enamel
Marcus & Co. Edwardian Essex Crystal Mother-Of-Pearl 14K Yellow Gold Cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Link style cufflinks terminate with 13.0 mm round Essex style reverse carved rock crystal cabochons. Painted to depict sail boats with opaque brown, green, blue ,white, and cream pai...
Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Signed Edwardian Marcus & Co. 14K Gold & Sapphire Stick Pin
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine Edwardian stick pin. By Marcus & Co. In 14 karat yellow gold with a small, round faceted blue sapphire. Simply a wonderful signed antique...
Sapphire, 14k Gold
Marcus & Co. Victorian Painted Rock Crystal 14 Karat Gold Mens Fishing Cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Link style cufflinks featuring a round, transparent rock crystal cabochon measuring approximately 13 mm, bezel set, in a high polished gold surround With a reverse carved, hand-painted, colorful depiction of fish and feathered fly fishing lures...
Rock Crystal, Crystal, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Marcus & Co. 1930's Essex Crystal and Gold Hunting Cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in New York, NY
A pair of American cuff links composed of Essex crystals by Marcus & Co. The double sided cuff links have 4 finely executed individual reverse painted Essex Crystals. The crystals de...
Crystal, 14k Gold
Marcus & Co. Mother of pearl gold cufflinks
By Marcus & Co.
Located in London, GB
A pair of mother-of-pearl and seed pearls cufflinks by Marcus & Co, Mounted 14ct gold, signed Marcus & Co.
Cultured Pearl, 14k Gold
Jacob & Co. is considered expensive for a few reasons. For one thing, the watch collectors of the world know the watchmaker for its multicolored-gemstone designs as well as its oversized and innovative complications. There are substantial costs related to the design, assembly and premium materials associated with Jacob & Co.’s luxury watches, which are painstakingly crafted in Switzerland and sold all over the world. The price tag reflects the brand’s use of meticulously sourced round brilliant cut diamonds and metals such as 18-karat gold. Additionally, only a limited number of timepieces leave the watchmaker's workshops each year, so demand usually far exceeds supply. Find Jacob & Co. watches for sale on 1stDibs.