Items Similar to Maison Martin Margiela Runway Look1 Vanessa Beecroft Red Cape SS 2007

Red wool and silk double breasted coat THIERRY MUGLER COUTURE

Chanel métiers d’art Paris Shanghai Pre Fall 2010 red silk cape vest by Karl

SAINT LAURENT 2014 Hedi Slimane Runway red wool hooded half cape coat FR36 S

Balenciaga Haute Couture Red Swing Bolero Jacket, Early 1960s

Vintage Givenchy Couture by Alexander McQueen Sz 36 Lipstick Red Silk Cape Dress

Karl Lagerfeld 1980s Lipstick Red Boiled Wool Cocoon Vintage Cape Kimono Jacket

Want more images or videos?

Request additional images or videos from the seller

1 of 11

Maison Martin Margiela Runway Look1 Vanessa Beecroft Red Cape SS 2007

Name: Maison Martin Margiela Runway Look1 Vanessa Beecroft Red Cape SS 2007
Brand: Maison Martin Margiela
Rating: 5 (2 reviews)

$7,420

£5,553.16

€6,490.70

CA$10,485.02

A$10,583.77

CHF 6,081.47

MX$128,288.07

NOK 70,389.90

SEK 71,899.32

DKK 48,519.76

About the Item

Belgium former fashion designer Martin Margiela for his eponymous Paris-based Maison Martin Margiela Spring/Summer 2007 collection in a minimalist style in one of his favorite colors debuted "La Veste" on the runway as the key element of Look 1 (see our photos of WWD-published show coverage and the designer's French-Vogue-published titled sketch). The cherry-red crepe viscose stretch knit was presented as a short draping circle cape, which Margiela envisioned to be worn over a wide-shouldered jacket with pads. It is convertible if worn as a skirt by a small-sized person or as a draped infinity scarf or hood by virtually anyone. One of the iconic performance-art staged photos by Vanessa Beecroft of designer-fashion-clad women immortalized Margiela's red cape as historically significant by arranging for 13 of her models on one side of her step-tiered group to wear them over the collection's foundational nude bodysuits and heels. Reportedly inspired by 1970s retail-fashion store-window displays remembered from Margiela's childhood, the bold runway palette of primarily bright red and electric blue conjures both masculine and feminine cartoon characters--such as Superman, Wonder Woman, Snow White and Little Red Riding Hood. For perspective, powerful real male figures have traditionally been associated with such a highly-tailored cape, such as royalty or religious leaders like the Italian Pope. In the runway closeup, notice the subtle drape on the upper chest that results from uniquely stitched darts/tucks at the back neckline that slightly raise a point on each shoulder--as if symmetrically distorted by a narrow hanger. The wearer's arms that drop beyond these shoulder-nub markers echo Margiela's iconic "cigarette-shoulder" jackets that have finely-tailored padded "stubs" sewn into shoulder-seams for the suggestion of a too-small fit like the "no-power dressing" of Charlie Chaplin. The lightweight high-low garment with the tucks on one half is ideal as a warm-weather overlay. The runway cape has its iconic corner-stitched blank brand label on its shorter side, while our version has it sewn on the longer side. The round neckline/waistline enables it to be worn in any direction to change it into an asymmetrical piece, offering many options for where to make the brand's four white stitches more or less visible. We note here a significant conclusion about Margiela's game-changing S/S 2007 collection, which was made by the Parisian Palais Galleria curators who worked closely with the designer to accurately present his many fashion-altering contributions from the 20 years that he was an artist focused on clothing: "(S/S2007) marks the last step in his creative journey, a break with previous research; the designer feels the need to turn his back on what he has so far presented in ready-to-wear, taking care to always address the same woman. He rejects the elements of his collections that he considers caricatured and takes new directions: sharpness replacing wrinkled and worn; design replaces deconstruction; and the men's suit jacket feminizes into a tailor's jacket." The "Made In Italy" size "S" noted on one of the printed tags at the sole seam below the brand label may be irrelevant given the stretch neckline. However, it does define the length and draping effects that Margiela intended for a small-sized wearer. When finally worn by the buyer, our garment will appear slightly shorter on its longer side because our mannequin "hanger" only has a front form that ends mid-shoulder--no backside.

Designer:
Maison Martin Margiela
Brand:
Maison Martin Margiela
Dimensions:
Marked Size: S, one size fits most (EU)
Place of Origin:
Italy
Period:
2000-2009
Condition:
Wear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Chicago, IL
Reference Number:
1stDibs: LU3244222702442

Shop All Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela

Belgian designer Martin Margiela (b. 1957) — whose life, career, and designs for handbags, clothing and shoes have become cult-collector obsessions — pushed those who attended his shows outside their comfort zones. In the years following the 1988 debut of Maison Martin Margiela, he toyed with creative and aesthetic paradoxes that persist in fashion today.

Consider the Spring/Summer 2001 shirt patchworked from vintage clothing labels, or his famous corset dresses made from tailoring dummies, from his Fall/Winter 1997 line. Or his oversize collection for Fall/Winter 2000. In 1992, Margiela told Dépêche Mode magazine, “My clothes appeal to women of a certain mindset rather than of a specific age or physique.”

Born in Genk, Belgium, in 1957, Margiela knew he wanted to be a fashion designer after catching glimpses of Parisian fashion on TV as a child. Although his parents discouraged this career choice as an oddly funny aspiration, Margiela enrolled in the fashion program of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. There, he befriended and graduated a year ahead of the Antwerp Six — the acclaimed group of Belgian fashion designers comprising Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dirk Bikkembergs and Dirk Van Saene.

Like many of his contemporaries in the 1980s, Margiela understood Paris fashion but felt a deep resonance with the deconstructed beauty espoused by Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, of Comme des Garçons. Margiela’s fascination with Japan influenced many of his earliest collections and designs, from a dress pieced together from broken plates to his iconic Tabi boots, inspired by the split-toe Japanese worker’s shoe, which dates back to the 15th century.

Margiela decided to launch his own line while working for renowned Paris designer Jean Paul Gaultier. With Belgian designer Jenny Meirens, Margiela established Maison Martin Margiela in the French capital in 1988.

Margiela’s debut show was nothing short of spectacular. Set in a packed Café de la Gare in the still-seedy Marais district, it was also scandalous to the Parisian fashion set of the time. The designer tore up the conventions of contemporary couture presentations, most notably having his models, plucked from the streets and wearing ink-blotted Tabis, wend their way through the crowd.

The show redefined the concept of the runway in a way that would later inspire such designers as Alexander McQueen and Demna Gvasalia.

While the notoriously private designer retired from fashion in 2009, for many Maison Martin Margiela collectors, his pieces capture the irreverence of the postwar, post-punk late 1980s and ’90s. Katy Rodriguez, cofounder of the cult vintage fashion shop Resurrection, is among those who felt a connection to Margiela’s clothing in the subliminal challenges it posed to the time’s beauty norms.

“Growing up in San Francisco and coming out of the end of punk rock, not wanting to be objectified, not wanting to be seen as a sexual object, not wanting your value to be just because you’re pretty — all those clothes played into all of that,” she says. “It really was a reflection of the kind of world the young people I knew at the time wanted to live in.”

John Galliano was named creative director at the house in 2014 and it rebranded as Maison Margiela in 2015.

Find vintage Maison Martin Margiela boots, evening dresses, jackets and more on 1stDibs.

More From This Seller

View All

Artisanal Martin Margiela Deconstructed Knit Snap Tie Convertible Top c1990

By Maison Martin Margiela

Located in Chicago, IL

With Belgian former fashion designer Martin Margiela's original blank white textural cotton corner-sewn label from the early 1990s visible above the structural hole in the center of the circular knit, this openwork yarn top that is clearly a one-of-a-kind "Line 0" Artisanal garment by Maison Martin Margiela is crocheted from a brown soft animal-hair blend into a see-through changeante pattern recalling a collapsed spiderweb. A prominent European dealer sold a similarly designed but longer deconstructed openwork mohair-blend grey cape that also features a circular knit hole. Its remaining additional tag indicates that it was produced by Margielas' longtime Italian knitter Miss Deanna for the Autumn-Hiver 1993-1994 collection. Further, we have found similar one-of-a-kind Margiela openwork-knit and unraveled pieces, as well as one with oversized snaps like the fasteners on our top, dating back to his 1992 collection. Suggesting that our listing could have been from an even earlier collection, Antwerp fashion museum MoMu featured a pale deconstructed mohair knit sweater dating from 1990 in its major Martin Margiela 20-year retrospective (see our snapshot), which was an exhibition produced in collaboration with the designer during his final year at the house in 2008. Based on other Margiela couture pieces with more than one remaining identification tag, the design of our cardigan without a remaining text tag began as a vintage top collected by Martin Margiela to upcycle or reproduce, and/or it was made-to-order by Miss Deanna before he finished it to some degree with his Paris-based team. Our knit fastens with pompon-tipped yarn ties, along with two signature silver oversized-snap buttons, which most noticeably appeared on Margiela tops in 1994 for a collection that was inspired by toy-doll wardrobes and included human-sized reproductions of actual miniatures. For price comparison, two other Margiela 1990s...

Category

1990s Italian Vests

By Karl Lagerfeld

Located in San Diego, CA

Chic 80s vintage KARL LAGERFELD lipstick red and black boiled wool and velvet cocoon cape / kimono jacket ! Features soft red boiled wool, with black velvet trim. Open front can acco...

Category

1980s French Capes

Martin Margiela: An Intimate Look at the Designer and His Surreal Fashions

In a recently released film, the elusive Belgian designer reflects on his time in the fashion world and his avant-garde creations, which have become coveted collector items.