Long before trend-bucking creative director Alessandro Michele brought his hallucinatory “Utopian Fantasy” campaign to Gucci, it was a modest Italian leather shop. Today, it’s an internationally renowned luxury house with an iconic logo, and vintage Gucci clothing, handbags and shoes are among high fashion's most covetable goods.
Guccio Gucci (1881–1953) admired the stylish suitcases he saw wealthy guests arrive with at the Savoy Hotel in London, where he worked as a bellhop. So, in 1921, after a stint at Franzi, a luggage company in his hometown of Florence, he opened a leather goods shop of his own.
At first, Gucci’s Florence business specialized in equestrian accessories. But as its reputation flourished, particularly among the English aristocracy, so too did its footprint. In 1938, he brought three of his sons — Aldo, Vasco and Rodolfo — into the business and expanded it to Rome and later Milan. In the mid-1930s, a League of Nations embargo against Italy pushed Gucci to experiment with alternatives to imported leather. Its woven hemp fabric from Naples, adorned with the brand’s signature diamond print, was a hit, especially among A-list celebrities. The material was first used on suitcases before finding enduring popularity on handbags. (No list of revered designer purses would be complete without Gucci.)
In the 1950s, Elizabeth Taylor carried one of Gucci’s bamboo-handled tote bags, another adaptation to material rationing. After Jackie Kennedy was seen sporting a slouchy Gucci tote in 1961, it was renamed for the First Lady. Then Grace Kelly, on a visit to the boutique in Milan, inspired Rodolfo Gucci to work with Italian illustrator and Gucci textile designer Vittorio Accornero on the Flora print in 1966. Taking cues from Sandro Botticelli’s Primavera, with its pattern of flora and insects, it was painted entirely by hand and featured no fewer than 37 colors.
In 1953, just 15 days after opening his first store on New York’s 5th Avenue, Guccio passed away at 72. The early 1970s saw store openings in Tokyo and Hong Kong, but by the late 1980s, Gucci was floundering. Rodolfo Gucci took charge in 1982, but family drama and lawsuits ensued. In 1993, Rodolfo’s son, Maurizio, transferred his shares in the company to Investcorp, ending the family’s involvement in Gucci. Dawn Mello, then-president of Bergdorf Goodman, joined as creative director in 1989. But it was Tom Ford, who took over as creative director in 1994, who ultimately revived the brand.
Ford’s racy ads, shot by photographers such as Mario Testino, stirred controversy. And his potent vision of sexed-up femininity — with “jewel-toned satin shirts unbuttoned to there,” as Vogue described his breakthrough 1995 runway show — was wildly successful. The new millennium brought new ownership — Pinault Printemps Redoute in 2004 — and a more toned-down vision from Frida Giannini, who became sole creative director in 2006. Alessandro Michele was named creative director in 2015, and the storied brand took a giant leap forward.
Find vintage Gucci clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
1970s Peach Accordion Pleat Floral Print Maxi Dress
Located in London, GB
This 1970s maxi dress was bought in Paris and is crafted from man-made peach chiffon splashed with bold lilac and pink florals. Pleated all over with an innovative technique that ens...
2003 Tom Ford for Gucci Runway Pink Strapless Corset Maxi Dress
By Gucci
Located in London, GB
This memorable dress was worn by supermodel Natalia Vodianova on the runway for Gucci’s Fall 2003 collection, designed by Tom Ford (look 39/45). True to form, this collection was inc...
2014 Giambattista Valli Documented Silk Cream Floral Maxi Dress
By Giambattista Valli
Located in London, GB
This gown was the final look (31 of 31) in the lookbook for Giambattista Valli’s Pre-Fall 2014 collection. The season was defined by ease, and this gown is generously crafted to a fr...
1960s Saks Fifth Avenue Chiffon Rose Print Maxi Dress
By Saks Fifth Avenue
Located in London, GB
Superb mid 1960s Saks Fifth Avenue floral maxi evening dress with a soft silk bodice, with beautiful darts under the bust which create a lovely feminine silhouette. It has a gentle V...
2014 Michael Van Der Ham Runway Documented Pale Peach Brocade Dress
Located in London, GB
This romantic gown was created by Dutch womenswear designer Michael Van Der Ham and walked the runway as part of the brand’s Spring 2014 ready-to-wear collection. Tailored from silk brocade in the most delicate pale pink - peach hue, it is textured with raised organic shapes which form interlaced circles across the cloth. It is cut to a generous, floaty maxi-length. It has halter-neck straps, as well as two shoulder straps, all cut from the same cloth. The halter secures at the back of the neck with a large silver-toned metal hook-and-eye clasp. There is a cropped top that sits over the rest of the dress. The waist of the dress is cinched and embellished with flowers and leaves formed from rhinestones, glass and silver-toned beads and tiny silver-toned rings. Below the waist, the skirt is softly pleated and then falls straight to the floor. The skirt is lined with pale peach matte silk. The top is backed with white cotton. The dress fastens under the left arm with a hidden tonal zip and four large hidden plastic snap closures. In excellent condition - there is a faint hem line which was raised and then let down again. It can only be seen in certain lights due to the properties of the fabric. No size or composition labels remain in the dress so please check our measurements below. The fabric has no stretch and we estimate a good fit for sizes up to a UK 8 or US 4 on account of the small waist. Notes on Designer: Michael van der Ham graduated from prestigious Central Saint Martins with a double award winning graduate collection and worked at Sophia Kokosalaki...
2019 Alexander McQueen Runway Documented Floral Corset Dress
By Alexander McQueen
Located in London, GB
This dress walked the runway as look 10/41 of McQueen’s Spring 2019 show and was designed by creative director Sarah Burton. It was featured in the season's campaign look book on mod...
New Gucci Silk Crepe de Chine Floral Print Dress IT42
By Gucci
Located in Brossard, QC
Gucci Silk Crepe de Chine Floral Print Dress The Gucci Silk Crepe de Chine Floral Print Dress celebrates Gucci’s signature elegance with a garden-inspired palette and a refined, lig...
GUCCI TOM FORD 1999 Vintage Runway pink floral cutout leather strap dress IT42 M
By Gucci, Tom Ford
Located in Hong Kong, NT
GUCCI TOM FORD 1999 Vintage Runway pink floral cutout leather strap dress IT42 M Reference: TGAS/D00469 Brand: Gucci Designer: Tom Ford Collection: Runway Material: Silk, Leather Col...
New Gucci Plissé Poly Satin Midi Dress IT 44 / US 8
By Gucci
Located in Brossard, QC
Pale rose poly satin. Back button closure with opening. Hidden back zip. Plissé detail. Raw cut edges. light poly satin with a slight shine Top silk lining. 85% Triacetate 15% polyes...
Etro Floral Beaded Trim Maxi Dress
By Etro
Located in Boca Raton, FL
A family-owned Milan-based business since 1968, Etro’s offerings are defined by their gentle slide between South Asian influence and Italian chic. Known for their paisley patterns an...
Gucci Silk Flower Print Midi Dress SS 2018
By Gucci
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous chrysanthemum print silk dress in shades of blue and orange. It is sleeveless with a crew neckline and a midi length straight skirt wit...
GUCCI pink silk 2013 FLORAL RUFFLED BACKLESS Dress 40 S
By Gucci
Located in Zürich, CH
100% authentic Gucci by Frida Giannini sleeveless open back dress in pink, sage and light rose silk (100%). Features ruffles at the neck and the back an...
Created during Alessandro Michele's tenure at the brand, this sparkling, whimsical minaudière feels just right for a night out.
The iconic Italian label’s traveling exhibition has just arrived in London.
