Recognized for the understated but wholly glamorous fashions he introduced in the 1970s, and revered today for his vintage dresses, sunglasses, handbags and other enduring designs, Roy Halston Frowick defined the spare, body-conscious style of the so-called Studio 54 era. In doing so, he became a legend himself, known simply as Halston, a lean moniker that represented the visionary minimalist ideals he would inject into the world of fashion.
Born in Des Moines, Iowa — but raised in Evansville, Indiana — Halston moved to Chicago in 1952, where he worked as a window dresser by day and studied at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago at night. In the late 1950s, he moved to New York City. As the hat designer for Bergdorf Goodman, he had his first encounter with fame in 1961 when Jackie Kennedy wore a pillbox hat he designed to President John F. Kennedy’s inauguration. Less than a decade later, after hats fell out of fashion and sales plummeted, Halston launched his own ready-to-wear line and opened a Madison Avenue boutique.
One of Halston’s early successes was the sexy Ultrasuede shirtdress, an unassuming adaptation of a man’s oxford shirt introduced in 1972 that became a fashion staple for the well-dressed woman. Named for a washable synthetic fabric that evokes the feel of suede — Halston is said to have previously seen innovative designer Issey Miyake wearing the material — the Ultrasuede shirtdress was cut to complement many figures with buttons that began at the breastbone rather than at the garment’s structured neckline. In one season, 60,000 were sold. Ultrasuede became a Halston signature, and he would use the fabric in coats, luggage and other items.
But it was his seductively simple nightlife designs that made Halston an international name. Often cut on the bias or sewn with single seams, his garments were constructed to flatter the female form like no evening gowns that had come before, popularizing such styles as the halter dress. “Halston brought a spark of the divine to everything he did,” said model Pat Cleveland during an interview about the 2021 Netflix series based on his life.
And, for a while, the designer was as ubiquitous in the clubs as his designs. “For two decades, [Halston] was the king of New York nightlife,” wrote Steven Gaines in Vanity Fair. He was a regular at Studio 54, partying with the likes of Andy Warhol, Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli and his Halstonettes, his coterie of glamorous models and muses that included Elsa Peretti. The close friend and collaborator of Halston’s transformed diamond jewelry for Tiffany & Co. after signing a contract with the storied American luxury house in 1974.
Halston won four Coty American Fashion Critics' Awards over the course of his career. In 1973, he sold his company to Norton Simon, and in the early 1980s, it switched ownership again. By 1984, neither his name nor his company were his own. Halston continued to work, however. He collaborated with close friend and legendary choreographer Martha Graham, designing critically acclaimed costumes for her, including for her dance work Persephone in 1987. Halston died of complications from AIDS in 1990.
Today, Halston’s designs can be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston and more.
Find vintage Halston clothing and fashion accessories today on 1stDibs.
Mollie Parnis Emerald Green Mock Neck Sequin Dress, 1960s
By Mollie Parnis
Located in Boca Raton, FL
Gaining commercial success in the 1940s, Mollie Parnis was an early American designer who was greatly revered for her chic yet conservative looks as well as one of the earliest Ameri...
1990S Emerald Green Silk Chiffon Fully Beaded Gown
Located in New York, NY
1990S Emerald Green Silk Chiffon Fully Beaded Gown
1960s William Travilla Green and Blue Sequin Dress
By William Travilla
Located in London, GB
This is a late 1960s or early 1970s couture sequinned maxi gown by William Travilla whose name is synonymous with Marilyn Monroe for whom he worked as a costume designer from 1952. He designed, arguably, the most famous cinematic dress in history, the white pleated halterneck dress for 'The Seven Year Itch' and was Oscar nominated 5 times winning for 'The Adventures of Don Juan' where he designed costumes for Errol Flynn. He designed for his own label from 1957 and was widely acclaimed for his work on the television series The Thorn Birds and Dallas during the 1980s. The silk fabric in this gown is just beautiful and has an abstract almost painterly foliage print design; the vibrant greens and blues invoke a tropical vibe. Overlaying the silk from head to toe are tightly spaced clear sequins that have been joined together with a a silver thread giving an iridescence to the top layer of organza. The dress has a deep V-neck crossover empire line bodice with hidden covered popper buttons for modesty along the V-line. The gathered skirt is very full and is separately lined underneath in a fine quality silk crepe. A green velvet band with a neat bow completes the look. There's lots of hand finishing details on this dress and it is so well made that you could wear it either way around depending on whether you wanted slightly more coverage. The label inside the dress reads 'Haute Couture by Sally's and then the address is Palisades Park, New Jersey. Whilst not strictly, haute couture, this dress is as close to American designer royalty that you can get. A fellow vintage dealer I very much admire, Shrimpton...
Victoria Royal 1960s Kelly Green Silk Satin Sequined + Beaded Vintage Gown Dress
By Victoria Royal
Located in San Diego, CA
Sensational vintage 60s VICTORIA ROYAL Couture Kelly green full length evening gown! Fitted bodice features thousands of hand-sewn sequins and...
1970S OSCAR DE LA RENTA Emerald Green & Silver Silk Lurex Metallic Devoré Velve
By Oscar De La Renta
Located in New York, NY
1970S OSCAR DE LA RENTA Emerald Green & Silver Silk Lurex Metallic Devoré Velvet Gown With Crystal Straps Internal Bustier
Bob Mackie 1980's Emerald Green Sequin Gown
By Bob Mackie
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Step into the disco era with this stunning Bob Mackie emerald green sequin gown from the 1980s. Crafted for the glamorous party-goer, this floor-length dress features a flattering V-...
Iridescent Emerald Green Sequin Cocktail Dress Size 6-8
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This dress is composed of a fine iridescent/multi-dimensional hue emerald green and teal silk with a sequin embellished bodice. Features an asymmetrical design with a side zipper. I...
1960's Custom Emerald Heavily Embellished Gown and Jacket Size 4-8
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This custom 1960's ensemble is composed of a deep green embellished silk with a floral motif. The jacket features center front hook and eye closures and the gown has a center back zi...
1970s Halston Forest Green Silk Chiffon Layered Bias Cut Asymmetrical Maxi Dress
By Halston
Located in Gresham, OR
1970s Halston Forest Green Silk Chiffon Asymmetrical Maxi. One shoulder is sheer chiffon and the other shoulder is constructed of layered bias cut chiffon. Balloon sleeves. Slips ove...
1992 Ungaro Emerald Green Draped Jersey Gown W/ Wrap Back & Bold Shoulders US 6
By Emanuel Ungaro
Located in Gresham, OR
1992 Emanuel Ungaro emerald green rayon and silk blend jersey gown: Masterfully draped with vented wrap back and bold padded shoulder silhouette. Marvelously slinky and comfortable. ...
Malcolm Starr Heavily Beaded Green Silk Organza Gown, Circa 1970s
By Malcolm Starr
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Malcolm Starr Heavily Beaded Green Silk Organza Gown - 8- Circa 70's This Elinor Simmons for Malcolm Starr creation is fabulous. This gorgeous green ...
Roberto Cavalli Ivory and Green Sequin Chiffon Gown-Sz 44
By Roberto Cavalli
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Roberto Cavalli Ivory Silk Chiffon gown with Green and Tan sequin/bugle beads - Sz 44 This gorgeous gown has long sleeves, an low plunging v neck open back with a ivory ribbon tie ac...
Roger Freres Black Lace and Green Silk Taffeta Gown-10-Circa 70's
By Roger Freres
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Roger Freres Black Lace and Green Silk Taffeta Gown - Sz 10 - Circa 70's Additional Measurements: Bust 40" Waist 30" Shoulder to Shoulder 16" Sleeve length 25" Length 59"
Bill Blass Black and Bronze Sequin Long Sleeve Gown - 10 - 1970's
By Bill Blass
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Bill Blass Black and Bronze Sequin Long Sleeve Gown - 10 - 1970's. This gorgeous gown has arrived in time for the holiday season. It has a sleek look with shoulder pads and an ombre ...
Valentino Emerald Green Silk and Lace Cap Sleeve Sheath Dress - Sz 8
By Valentino
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Valentino Emerald Green Silk and Lace Cap Sleeve Sheath Dress - Sz 8 This Sheath sytle silk dress is in a beautiful emerald green color with a ...
Naeem Khan Early 2000’s Iridescent Grey Metallic Sequin Dress-Size 6
By Naeem Khan
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
Naeem Khan Early 2000’s Iridescent Grey Metallic Sequin Dress-Size 6 This early creation in Naeem Khan’s career is why he became so famous espec...
Jeriana San Juan explains how she undertook the intimidating project of designing costumes for the new Netflix series about the New York fashion legend. (Hint: She found vintage Halston on 1stDibs!)
Makeup and astrology expert Linda Mason dispenses fashion advice for every zodiac sign. Does your wardrobe match your horoscope?
