In the years following the opening of her modest millinery shop, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel became a pivotal designer of both fashionable casual wear and Paris haute couture as well as an icon and arbiter of 20th-century style with her bob haircut and pearls. Today vintage Chanel handbags, jackets and evening dresses are among the most sought-after clothing and accessories for fashion lovers all over the world.
The first Chanel shop was established in 1910 in Paris on rue Cambon by the young milliner Gabrielle Chanel (1883–1971), who had picked up the nickname “Coco” while working as a club singer. The boutique drew the attention of the Parisian fashion elite who popularized her wide-brimmed Chanel Modes hats. Soon she added a sportswear store in the Normandy resort town of Deauville, where Coco set the tone for her defining sense of style — traditionally masculine garments reimagined for feminine shapes, made from simple jersey fabric.
Effortless and elegant, Chanel's designs promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by complicated layers of fabric and cumbersome corsets. She followed this success with a couture house, opened in 1915 in Biarritz.
But Chanel was not born into a life of glamour. Following the death of her mother, her father left her in an orphanage where she lived until the age of 18. It was there that she learned to sew as well as appreciate the classic pairing of black and white as worn by the nuns.
In 1926, Chanel introduced her first little black dress, reclaiming a color that had once been reserved for mourning and working-class women. That same decade, she debuted her perfume, Chanel No. 5, as well as the Chanel suit with a fitted skirt, inspired by the boxy lines of men’s clothing and employing a sporty tweed.
Chanel closed her fashion operations during World War II, then returned to the industry in 1954 to design for the functional needs of modern women.
Structure and wearability endured in all of Chanel’s clothing and accessories, like the quilted leather 2.55 handbag — a 1955 update of a 1920s-era design — with its gold-chain shoulder strap that freed up a woman’s hands. The 1957 two-tone slingback pumps had a practical heel height while offering a bold statement in the black tip of the shoes. Her collarless jacket reacted against the constricting styles of Christian Dior's New Look, replacing them with a design that was timeless, an instant classic.
After Coco Chanel died in 1971, the brand underwent several changes in leadership, including fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld, who took over as artistic director in 1983. His collections for Chanel displayed his knack for synthesizing old and new, high and low. Lagerfeld revived Chanel ballet flats and thoroughly embraced the classic logo's interlocking CCs, which took the form of a clasp featured on so many of the rare Chanel bags that are much sought after today.
Vintage Karl Lagerfeld designs for Chanel dresses, coats and other clothing of the 1980s, '90s and 2000s riffed on its iconography, accenting a lexicon of Chanel-isms with tastes of the moment. And as the 1990s have become associated with styles adopted by today’s supermodels and influencers, vintage Chanel bags of the 1990s are among the most prized of the brand’s offerings.
Over the years, the company has continued to innovate, such as expanding into ready-to-wear fashion in 1978 and, in 2002, establishing a subsidiary company — Paraffection — dedicated to preserving the heritage skills of fashion artisan workshops. The House of Chanel still operates its flagship on rue Cambon in Paris, where it all began.
Browse vintage Chanel bags, evening dresses, shoes, jewelry and other clothing and accessories on 1stDibs.
Chanel Dark Red Caviar Jumbo Classic Flap Bag
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This Chanel Jumbo Classic Flap Bag is crafted in durable dark red caviar leather, offering a textured, supple surface that holds its structured silhouette beautifully. Its iconic fla...
Chanel Dark Red Lambskin Leather Jumbo Classic Flap Bag with Silver Hardware
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
A timeless icon reimagined in a richly saturated hue, this Chanel Jumbo Classic Flap is crafted in dark red lambskin leather offering a sophisticated alternative to traditional black...
Chanel Red Quilted Lambskin Classic Jumbo Double Flap Bag Silver Hardware
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
Scaled to make an impression, this Chanel Classic Jumbo Double Flap in red lambskin channels the house’s most iconic design through a bolder, more commanding lens. The larger silhoue...
Chanel Vintage Belt Bag Red Quilted Lambskin w/Gold Hardware
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This Chanel Vintage Belt Bag in red quilted lambskin channels a more body-centric approach to the house’s design language, where the classic Matelassé pattern is reworked into a comp...
Chanel Deep Red Crocodile Jumbo Classic Flap Bag with Silver Hardware
Located in Palm Beach, FL
An extraordinary and exceedingly rare iteration of Chanel’s most iconic silhouette, this Jumbo Classic Flap is rendered in sumptuous deep red crocodile—elevating a timeless design into the realm of true collector luxury. Crafted by the House of Chanel, the piece showcases the exceptional beauty of exotic skin, with each scale uniquely patterned to create a rich, dimensional surface. The deep crimson hue—both bold and refined—offers a sophisticated alternative to classic black, while maintaining the enduring elegance synonymous with the brand. The signature interlocking CC turn-lock is presented in polished silver-tone hardware, lending a modern edge and a striking contrast against the warmth of the crocodile leather. The structured Jumbo silhouette, beloved for its practicality and presence, features the iconic leather-interwoven chain strap, allowing for both shoulder and crossbody wear. The interior is lined in fine leather and thoughtfully designed with multiple compartments, reflecting Chanel’s commitment to both form and function. Every detail—from the precise stitching to the balanced proportions—speaks to the house’s uncompromising standards of craftsmanship. Exotic Chanel Classic Flaps are produced in extremely limited quantities and are among the most sought-after pieces in the secondary market. Their rarity, combined with the enduring desirability of the Classic Flap design, positions them as both a statement accessory and a tangible investment. A powerful and sophisticated piece, ideal for the seasoned collector or discerning client seeking the pinnacle of Chanel luxury. Details Genuine crocodile leather in deep red Jumbo Classic Flap silhouette Interlocking CC turn-lock closure Silver-tone hardware Leather-interwoven chain strap (shoulder/crossbody wear) Double flap interior with multiple compartments Leather lining Made in France Contemporary production (exact year varies by serial) Condition Excellent condition. The crocodile skin is beautifully preserved with rich color and natural luster. Minimal signs of wear to corners and hardware consistent with careful use. Presents exceptionally well. Collector Notes Chanel exotic skins...
Chanel Vintage Trapezoid Flap Bag Two Tone Red & Black Lambskin w/Gold Hardware
By Chanel
Located in Palm Beach, FL
A striking study in contrast, this vintage Chanel trapezoid flap bag is defined by its sharply contoured silhouette and bold two-tone executio...
Chanel Red Caviar Reissue Cross Body Bag
By Chanel
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Chanel red caviar reissue jumbo cross body bag. Natural cowhide strap and details. Shoulder drop adjustable 22". Collection 13. Comes with hologram, id ...
Chanel Red Leather Crossbody Flap Bag
By Chanel
Located in West Hollywood, CA
The Chanel red double sided crossbody in lambskin features an intertwined leather silver shoulder strap and a CC turn lock closure. The zipper wallet on back provides added space to ...
Chanel Red Large 2 Way Shoulder Bag
By Chanel
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Chanel red brushed leather 2 way shoulder bag. Lower zipped compartment and classic top flap. Shoulder drop 12"/23". Collection 15. Comes with hologram, id card and original dust cov...
CHANEL Reissue 2.55 Mini Flap Bag Red Quilted Calfskin
By Chanel
Located in Guangzhou, CN
Condition General wear and tear, scratches on hardware, worn chain, clean inside and out. Accessories ID card Size Width: 19.5cm, Height: 13cm Designer Chanel Model 2.55 Mini Exterio...
Chanel Red Quilted Lambskin Chain Around Hobo Shoulder Bag
By Chanel
Located in Guangzhou, CN
Condition: Normal signs of wear from daily use. The chain has wear, the hardware has scratches, and there are minor stains on the exterior and interior lining. Accessories: Dust bag...
Chanel 2009-2010 Red Quilted Caviar XL Classic Flap Messenger Bag
By Chanel
Located in Salt Lake Cty, UT
Authentic Chanel red quilted caviar XL classic flap messenger bag with silver hardware. A timeless designer handbag featuring the iconic CC front snap closure with dual straps. A timeless icon of luxury, this Chanel Red Classic Flap...
