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18K Gold Ruby and Diamond Demi Parure Suite, USA, 21st Century

$45,900
£34,590.31
€40,419.57
CA$65,135.54
A$65,333.54
CHF 37,897.16
MX$797,521.22
NOK 438,956.20
SEK 449,242.12
DKK 302,135.28

About the Item

A visually intriguing mix of design details comes together in this Contemporary Diamond and Ruby Demi Parure Suite, comprised of three thematically related pieces - a pair of ear clips, a brooch, and a ring, each of bombe design. Although made in the 21st century, the tremendous textured gold work and beautiful stone placement harken back to a distinct look of Mid-Century jewels. Each fully rounded, sparkling sculpture, crafted in 18K yellow gold and platinum, represents a globe-like intriguing flower. There are five variously sized flowers across the three pieces, set with 149 round faceted red rubies with an estimated total weight of 16.00 carats and 96 white round brilliant-cut diamonds with an estimated 15.00 carats. The domed bombe style, with its attention-grabbing shape and inflated surface area for more elaborate embellishment, reflected tastes in the 1950s for entire volumes. The term bombe is French, meaning 'bomb-shaped' and named for the French dessert, bombe glacee, or ice cream bomb. The bombe style has seen many resurgences of popularity throughout the years, as early as the Edwardian (1901-1910) and Art Deco (1919-1939) periods, and again in the 1950s and early 1960s conveying a tactilely pleasing luxury with a "Hollywood Glamour" inflection, as well as in the 1970s and 1980s, where big, bold, and gold was a favored aesthetic. In this suite, the full roundness of each gold flower is topped with a different domed cluster of round-brilliant-cut diamond "pistils" or floral centers, mounted in platinum. For the ring and earrings, each sparkling grouping comprises a single diamond in the center, surrounded by a six-diamond rosette configuration and further surrounded by 11, for 18 diamonds per flower. The double-pin stem brooch is composed of two flowers, one smaller and one larger, facing in two directions atop curving stems presented as simple, highly polished yellow gold forms. The brooch gives diamond sparkle in all orders, including in the stem's bottom "cut edge," adorned with pave diamonds. The center of the smaller flower follows the same pattern as the earrings and ring, likewise set with 18 diamonds. However, the diamonds in the larger flower are arranged in 5 rows, composed of 24 diamonds. Compositionally well thought-out, the textured gold petals cascade and amplify the sparkle of the diamonds and rubies. The effect is simply magnificent. The proliferation of petals is like so many peacock feathers; each accented asymmetrically with a lustrous ruby. Each petal has a custom cutout for each ruby. The four-prong setting is open to the back, allowing light behind each stone to amplify the subtle sparkle and rich color. Examining the reverse sides of all three pieces, each deep volume is hollowed out to lighten the weight of each design, making it comfortable to wear and allowing light to activate the fabulous collection of gemstones. Earring measure approx. 1" x 1"; clip-on style. The ring is US 5.5; it can be resized, albeit to a limit. Pin measurement is approximately 2" x 2". 149 brilliant round rubies weigh approximately. 16.00 carats total. Round brilliant diamonds weighing approx. 15.00 carats total. Overall weight approx. 106.68 grams, made in 18k yellow gold and platinum. Circa 21st Century.

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