For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mid-Century Ruby and Diamond Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A treasure of timeless glamour and storied provenance, this extraordinary necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels once belonged to the legendary Estée Lauder. Fashioned in platinum and 18K ye...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Platinum
39.13 Carat Burma Pigeon Blood Ruby And Diamond Necklace In 18K Gold
By Rewa Jewellery
Located in Bangkok, TH
An elegant Burmese ruby and diamond necklace showcased by Rewa jewels is handcrafted in 18 karat white gold. The design was inspired to look like 2 riviera necklaces intertwined. Th...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
$168,000Sale Price|20% Off
Oscar Heyman 60 ct Ruby Diamond Necklace 18K Gold Platinum GIA
By Oscar Heyman
Located in Chicago, IL
This exceptional Oscar Heyman ruby and diamond necklace is a remarkable example of fine late 20th-century American jewelry design, crafted in 1979 and accompanied by certification. E...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Luxury Burmese Ruby, Diamond Drop Necklace, 92.36ct, 18K White Gold
Located in Great Neck, NY
Natural Burmese Ruby, Diamond Drop Necklace, 92.36ct, 18K White Gold Metal: 18K White Gold Gemstone: Natural Burma Burmese Rubies Ruby Weight: 92.36 Carats Total Ruby Cuts: Oval Cut & Pear Shape Diamond Weight: Approximately 11.00 Carats Total Diamond Cuts: Round Brilliant Cut & Rose Cut Diamond Clarity: VS Weight: Approximately 88 Grams Style: Ruby Fringe Necklace / Statement Necklace / High Jewelry Necklace / Chandelier Necklace Features: Three-Dimensional Design, Cascading Ruby Fringe, Handmade Construction, Collector Quality Gemstones, Red Carpet Jewelry An extraordinary Burma ruby necklace showcasing an impressive 92.36 carats of natural Burmese rubies set throughout an elegant high jewelry design. Featuring richly saturated oval and pear shape rubies, this exceptional ruby diamond necklace displays the vivid red color and brilliance that have made fine Burma rubies among the most sought-after gemstones in the world. Designed as a dramatic ruby fringe necklace, the piece features a cascading arrangement of natural rubies flowing gracefully from the center, creating remarkable movement, depth, and presence. The three-dimensional design gives the necklace exceptional visual impact while maintaining elegance and wearability. Accenting the rubies are approximately 11.00 carats of natural white diamonds, including round brilliant and rose cut diamonds of VS clarity. These diamonds illuminate the vibrant Burmese rubies and enhance the luxurious appearance of this important ruby statement necklace...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Diamonds Ruby White and Rose Gold Parrot Shape Pendant Necklace
Located in Napoli, Campania
Parrot pendant in 14kt white and rose gold with a ruby eye. The white gold parts are covered in diamonds. diamonds 0.52 ct ruby 0.12 ct tot weight 10.2gr RF +HUHA RK. AUCA Length ...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold
$254,000Sale Price|60% Off
NWT $635, 000 18KT Gold Glittering 40CT Natural GIA Pigeon Ruby Diamond Necklace
Located in New York, NY
The Following Item we are offering is this Rare Important Radiant 18KT Gold Gorgeous Glittering and Sparkling Magnificent Fancy Unheated Natural Pigeon Ruby...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Signed 22.41 Carat No Heat Cabochon Ruby and Ruby Bead Necklace
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Vintage 22.41 Carat No Heat Pear Cabochon Cut Ruby and Diamond Pendant with a 2-Strand Ruby Bead Necklace by Tiffany & Co. Pendant Details: - Metal: 18K Gold - Gross Weight: 2...
Ruby, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$15,000
H 1.14 in W 1.14 in L 16.5 in
GIA Antique Pigeon Blood Burmese Burma Ruby Rose Cut Diamond Necklace French
Located in New York, NY
THIS IS A VERY RARE NO HEAT PIGEON BLOOD RED BURMESE BURMA RUBY, ROSE CUT DIAMOND AND PEARL MUSEUM QUALITY FRENCH BEAUX ARTS NAPOLEON III BELLE EPOQ...
Pearl, Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
Certified Unheated Burmese Briolette Ruby and Diamond Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Certified Unheated Burmese Briolette Ruby and Diamond Necklace A vintage necklace adorned with a natural Burmese briolette ruby and round-cut diamo...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
18K Two Tone Diamond and African Ruby Necklace
Located in New York, NY
18K Two Tone Diamond and African Ruby Necklace Condition: In good condition with some minor surface wear consistent with age. Length: 15.50 inch long chain, 2.25 inch pendant Metal: ...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Gold Snake Pendant Necklace with Diamonds & Rubies, England
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This pendant is sweet as it is round 2cm on an enamel base with a snake and crescent moon. The snake is set with Diamonds as is the crescent moon and the circle is covered in Diamon...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
Ruby Bead Drop Necklaces Seed Pearls Sapphire Doubled 14 Karat
Located in North Hollywood, CA
These teardrop Ruby beads are two necklaces put together,or worn individually. One is set with Seed Pearls and the other with Sapphire beads. Each necklace is 17" long together they...
Freshwater Pearl, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 14k Gold
Art Nouveau 18K Gold Enamel Dove Necklace with Diamonds & Ruby, 1910
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This exquisite antique necklace features a spread-winged dove rendered in luminous white and cream enamel, suspended gracefully from a platinum chain. The bird's outstretched wings a...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum, Enamel
Fire Opal Pendant with Diamond Surround, 18K Gold, England, 8 Carats
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This Fire Opal pendant is rare because it is faceted. Most Fire Opal are Cabochon cut not faceted.. Also Fire Opal are only found in Mexico, I found some in Cabo but this one comes...
Diamond, Fire Opal, 18k Gold
Ruby Bead Necklace w/Jade, Bone, Diamonds 18K Yellow Gold
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This gorgeous bead necklace is custom made and one of a kind. It features faceted Ruby Beads The Ruby beads form a double strand necklace as there are 2 strands of Ruby Beads which graduate in the center and a single row in the back. This necklace also has eight (8) Diamond encrusted Gold Beads as stations separating the beads. Also a bone Seahorse is on one side and a white Jade disk on the other. This piece is unusual and gorgeous, and makes a definite statement for the wearer of this gorgeous necklace. Do not wait. Stones: RUBY FACETED BEADS Stones: WHITE JADE DISK, BONE CARVED...
Diamond, Jade, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Antique Ruby Pearl Diamond Insect Brooch Pendant 18 Karat
Located in North Hollywood, CA
This gorgeous Ruby Pearl Diamond Insect brooch is large and wearable as a pendant or brooch. The wings are tremblant, Diamonds are on blackened ...
Diamond, Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Cartier understands the value of preserving the signature codes of great design, and how to tweak it for modern aficionados.
Throughout the season, timepieces are clues to the characters' character.
