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Couture Coco Chanel Era Rousselet Acorn Pendants Chunky Chain Necklace 1920s

$4,660
£3,510.23
€4,095.56
CA$6,591.77
A$6,632.15
CHF 3,849.52
MX$80,827.97
NOK 44,433.47
SEK 45,594.71
DKK 30,613.08

About the Item

Featuring 12 large patinated pearlescent charms distinctly handcrafted by Parisian Louis Rousselet--the master glass-and-metal-ornament parurier for French couture fashion houses since 1920--this heavy silver chain necklace is made in the unique chunky style of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel that she introduced in the late 1920s as her alternative to pearls. Capping Rousselet's signature Art Deco-period handmade beads, his intricate multi-texture metal tops for these balls resemble organic shapes like the stems of acorns or fruit. In a bib arrangement, the duotone reflective heavy spheres--in black glass, blue-gray enameled galalith, and silver metal--conform to the cleavage of the wearer. Aside from chain jewelry commissioned by Chanel, Rousselet-style jewelry was usually constructed with thin wires or braided string to enable his beads to attract the most attention. Notably, this necklace fastens with an enlarged spring-ring clasp that became associated with increasingly heavy Chanel costume jewelry. Like 1920s Chanel jewelry by Rousselet, the necklace is both unmarked for French origin and unsigned. In subsequent decades, variations of chunky-charm chain necklaces were reproduced by Chanel with her other paruriers using different materials in which they specialized, such as a similar Chanel-signed piece in the 1960s by bronze-maker Maison Denez. In addition to layering with other necklaces like faux-pearl ropes, we recommend that the buyer alternatively wear this versatile piece wrapped twice around the wrist, like Chanel herself often did with oversized-charm jewelry. Due to minor loss of silver tone due to normal hand-contact with the clasp and caps over time, a faint brassy tone can be seen in very bright light such as our photography. As this is consistent with its century-old age, we consider this good condition, which also includes fine scratches. Near the end of the 20th century after the death of Coco Chanel (1883-1971), the ongoing company Chanel revisited such early designs involving Rousselet (1892-1980) as inspiration for metal rope-link necklaces, such as those by Victoire de Castellane. So it is easy to find similar Chanel designs among contemporary costume jewelry since these pieces are all signed.
  • Metal:
  • Weight:
    5.4 ounces (lb)
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.5 in (38.1 mm)Depth: 1 in (25.4 mm)Diameter: 5.5 in (139.7 mm)Length: 17 in (431.8 mm)
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1920s
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. Minor losses.
  • Seller Location:
    Chicago, IL
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3244218315302

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