Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 14

Couture Robert Goosens Hammered Brass Rock Crystal Spiral Gres Drop Choker c1970

$4,495
£3,394.89
€3,974.64
CA$6,386.11
A$6,497.05
CHF 3,723.46
MX$78,228.47
NOK 43,520.33
SEK 43,711.33
DKK 29,713.98

About the Item

Robert Goosens, the French Chanel-favorite haute-couture parurier who enjoyed reinterpreting ancient and antique styles of jewelry with rock crystal and faux stones, also collaborated with Madame Alix Gres as one of our photos documents. Relevant to this statement necklace, the Parisian theatrical-costume designer, who founded the French fashion-house Maison Gres, commissioned Goosens to make spiral-wire adornments for her couture gowns. This handmade hammered brass wire choker necklace with five dropped entremblant pendants is decorated with unique colorful beads and wrapped wire. The piece dates between 1969-1971 based on similar unsigned spiraled-wire metal jewelry without goldsmithing marks in the museum collection of TheMet, which acquired the necklace that we photographed from Maison Givenchy founder Hubert de Givenchy, who was one of most supportive fans of Gres. Like the legendary sculptural clothing designs of Madame Gres, this necklace was inspired by Greco-Roman costumes, while its sculpted shapes by Goosens reference her signature curvilinear fabric techniques that earned her the sobriquet of "the master of the wrapped and draped dress". Goosens (1927-2016), nicknamed Monsieur Bijou, also made jewelry inspired by other periods of antiquity to compliment the couture clothing of Coco Chanel, Cristobal Balenciaga, Elsa Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. After Goosens collaborated with Gres, he revisited golden spiral designs with Saint Laurent. Similar to the free-flowing fabric manipulated in Gres gowns, this hand-shaped necklace that we photographed in sunlight is a study in motion that drapes across a curvy cleavage. Adding drama to this necklace below its wire choker, the top teetering-wire pendant is a twisted and hammered horizontal double spiral, which is a Hellenistic symbol of life and transformation suggesting the breasts of a goddess of fertility and motherhood. Yet distinctly Goosens, 18 hand-cut and hand-dyed "ancient-Roman-blue" rock-crystal beads are wire-strung to weight a second tier of two separate vertical double-spiral pendants. On each, a wrapped-wire tube divides the blue beads. Between these vertical pendants in two tiers, the central vertical pendants each feature a one-of-a-kind multicolor bead (yellow/blue/red/black/white) in two lengths with abstract organic patterns recalling ancient Italian glasswork. Four more blue beads bracket these larger colorful beads. An additional 10 blue beads and 5 wire tubes decorate the bottom looped wire pendant, as well as the bottom of the wire choker. Like the hammered-wire jewelry designs of modern artist Alexander Calder, the creative complex construction of this necklace surprisingly required no metalsmith techniques, such as soldering or casting, just great skill with a jewelry pliers and hammer. For a bigger picture of couture clothing by Madame Gres during the decade beginning in 1969, she notably designed many museum-collected one-color silk-taffeta draped long gowns with empire waists and simple high collars or geometric cut-outs. Remarkably, the focal points for some of these unique dresses were at the wrists, from where long pouf sleeves voluminously droop around the hands to nearly the floor like two enormous long-petaled flowers. If paired with this equally downward-focused and balanced necklace from this same period, its bold Greco-Roman elements would have pulled a viewer's gaze of the dress from floor to face. Although there is no significant provenance for this necklace, hammered brass and tinted rock crystal were among the few materials repeatedly associated with Goosens from 1969-71. For example, in his overlapping interior-decor collections based on themes of waterlilies or foliage, Goosens hammered gilt brass wire and sheets (see our final closeup photo) to represent plant parts or he wired rock-crystal beads to appear as tiny fruits. While the two multicolor glass or resin beads in this necklace are atypical, the combination of blue, yellow and red is a palette that the designer used for other pieces of rock-crystal jewelry and he created many kinds of multicolor faux stones with glass or resin paste, such as faux Tibetan turquoise including black and white. According to journalism based on interviews with Goosens, he often acquired unusual stones and glass for inspiration during his extensive travels exploring museum-collected antiquities. Since Maison Goosens was acquired in 2005 by Maison Chanel, it opened the Parisian showroom Galerie Goosens and associated shops to sell many kinds of reproductions and reimagined works by the founder, which fortunately does not suit the completely handmade elements of this necklace. So this couture piece remains one-of-a-kind. If desiring a vintage haute-couture original by Robert Goosens, we recommend perusing the Maison Goosens website so that a reproduction with a contemporary signature is not mistakenly purchased. Madame Gres (1903-1993) was born Germaine Emelie Krebs, but initially identified her fashion designs with the pseudonym Alix and later Alix Barton after involving a partner. By the 1970s while she was only making couture commissions from Maison Gres for high-profile women ranging from Grace Kelly to Paloma Picasso, she was also president of the Chambre Syndical of Paris Couture and received significant awards from Cartier for its Golden Thimble and from New York University for its Creative Leadership In the Arts. Her last couture commission was reportedly ordered by Hubert de Givenchy in 1989.

More From This Seller

View All
Haskell Hess Glass & Brass Fringe Pendants Chain Link Art Deco Necklace c1930

Haskell Hess Glass & Brass Fringe Pendants Chain Link Art Deco Necklace c1930

By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell

Located in Chicago, IL

Featuring a relatively heavy fringe of dangling Russian-gilt brass bars and contrasting French-blue textural hand-pressed glass beads topped with filigree caps to resemble flower bud...

Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Brass, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal

Antique Venetian Rare Seguso Design Handblown Glass Links & Pendants Necklace

Antique Venetian Rare Seguso Design Handblown Glass Links & Pendants Necklace

By Archimede Seguso

Located in Chicago, IL

This antique 19th Century Italian glass choker collar features a technically masterful link design that initially decorated chandeliers by the Seguso family, which founded Vetri d'Arte on the Venetian island of Murano centuries ago. In the style of elegant multi-pendant festoon necklaces from the mid-1800s, it dangles three one-inch drop pendants. The reddish pink mouth-blown glass balls with golden reflections are supported by brass findings. The handcrafted closed links appear to be miniature versions of the jewelry design made famous in the next century by the family's descendant Archimede Seguso (1909-1999), whom Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel worked...

Category

Antique 19th Century Italian Artisan Chain Necklaces

Materials

Brass

Antique French 33 Citrines Teardrop & Faceted Beads Bronze Chain Necklace 1920s

Antique French 33 Citrines Teardrop & Faceted Beads Bronze Chain Necklace 1920s

Located in Chicago, IL

This antique French chain necklace with three-inch drop pendants features 33 natural citrines, including 16 polished-teardrop and 17 faceted-bead golden quartz beads. It was construc...

Category

Early 20th Century French Artisan Drop Necklaces

Materials

Citrine, Bronze

MiriamHaskell 1930s Torsade Set GiltFiligreeCapped FauxPearls Earrings & Choker

MiriamHaskell 1930s Torsade Set GiltFiligreeCapped FauxPearls Earrings & Choker

By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell

Located in Chicago, IL

During the Art Deco period, Miriam Haskell's first designer Frank Hess designed this blue-and-white glass-beaded hand-sewn torsade set of dangle earrings and a choker necklace, whose knotted string is capped with their characteristic Russian-gilt brass flora filigree. Coinciding with the American Great Depression, to offer some less expensive costume jewelry than her initial ready-to-wear styles featuring Parisian hand-crafted materials found in French couture, Haskell reduced the cost of some of her findings by locally sourcing stamped metal and incorporating hand-pressed glass beads from Germany and Czechoslovakia. With a loop, the line from hand pressing the glass can only be found on the blue beads, while the white ones are coated in an organic material like authentic French faux pearls. The ends of the textured cords that string the beaded set were frayed to form a fuzzy opaque dome that hides the knots attached to the filigree caps. No Haskell jewelry was signed before 1947. The unsigned necklace...

Category

Vintage 1930s American Art Deco Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Brass, Gilt Metal, Yellow Gold

Maison Gripoix Coco Chanel France Glass Gilt Bronze Wire Chain Necklace c1939

Maison Gripoix Coco Chanel France Glass Gilt Bronze Wire Chain Necklace c1939

By Maison Gripoix for Chanel

Located in Chicago, IL

French Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel commissioned Parisian Maison Gripoix in the late 1930s to fabricate this elegant handmade drop-chain choker necklace for one of her couture clients. In...

Category

Vintage 1930s French Anglo-Indian Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Turquoise, Yellow Gold, Gilt Metal, Bronze

You May Also Like

1990s Philippe Ferrandis Gripoix Glass and Stone Choker Necklace New Never worn

1990s Philippe Ferrandis Gripoix Glass and Stone Choker Necklace New Never worn

By Philippe Ferrandis

Located in Wallkill, NY

Ferrandis Pastel glass Cabochons set in a gold plated necklace. This piece is from the start of his career in the late 80s early 90s. Has wonderful greens and blues glass, some yello...

Category

1990s French Choker Necklaces

Materials

Gilt Metal

Gilt & White Enamel Seashell Dangle Choker Necklace By Frederick Mosell, 1960s

Gilt & White Enamel Seashell Dangle Choker Necklace By Frederick Mosell, 1960s

By Mosell

Located in McKinney, TX

- Vintage item - Collectible costume jewelry piece from the mid-century - 15" length with additional 2" extender chain - Approx 1.5" width, including shell dangle charms - Gold p...

Category

Vintage 1960s American Modern Choker Necklaces

Vintage Miriam Haskell necklace, agate and glass beads, jade similar  1950s USA

Vintage Miriam Haskell necklace, agate and glass beads, jade similar 1950s USA

By Frank Hess for Miriam Haskell

Located in Stuttgart, DE

A very interesting necklace by Miriam Haskell from the early 1950s. Consisting of larger and smaller agate balls and smaller glass balls. In the middle the...

Category

Vintage 1950s American Artisan Choker Necklaces

Materials

Agate, Jade, Brass, Gilt Metal

Banded Agate & Gold Nugget Beaded Egyptian Revival Necklace

Banded Agate & Gold Nugget Beaded Egyptian Revival Necklace

By Bracken Jewelers

Located in Santa Monica, CA

This one-of-a-kind Sun Disc Necklace pairs the earthy beauty of banded agate with radiant high-karat gold nuggets and sun discs. Designed and crafted by Bracken Jewelers in Los Angel...

Category

2010s American Egyptian Revival Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Agate, Gold, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, 22k Gold

Robert Lee Morris Wabi Sabi Necklace for Donna Karan, 1986

Robert Lee Morris Wabi Sabi Necklace for Donna Karan, 1986

By Robert Lee Morris

Located in New York, NY

Robert Lee Morris Wabi Sabi Necklace For Donna Karan 1986. this is an original necklace created for a Donna Karan Spring 1986 runway show, comprised of Wabi Sabi colors and component...

Category

Vintage 1980s American Modern Link Necklaces

Materials

Brass

Art Deco Rock Crystal and 9 Carat Gold Necklace

Art Deco Rock Crystal and 9 Carat Gold Necklace

Located in Chipping Campden, GB

This gorgeous necklace is made of clear rock crystal with a matte effect and a shiny effect. The gold beads between are modelled in 9ct gold. Length: 43.5cm Bead Diameter: 8-14mm ...

Category

Vintage 1920s British Art Deco Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Crystal, Rock Crystal, Gold