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Regency Aquamarine Necklace with Old Mine Diamonds, circa 1815–1820

$16,500
£12,333.58
€14,391.57
CA$23,169.36
A$23,568.13
CHF 13,457.74
MX$285,069.47
NOK 156,924.30
SEK 159,328.68
DKK 107,587.53

About the Item

This ravishing antique aquamarine necklace, dating to the Regency period (circa 1815–1820), is a crowning jewel of the era and a tour de force of early 19th-century jewelry design. At its center is an exceptional and monumental emerald-cut aquamarine, displaying the most sublime, luminous light blue, remarkable for both its size and its presence. The mesmerizing aquamarine measures 16.92 mm x 12.35 mm and weighs approximately 16.5 carats. It is framed within an elegant foliate surround set with 84 hand-cut Old Mine diamonds, each selected and placed to enhance the central stone’s brilliance by candlelight. The aquamarine is mounted in silver, a deliberate period choice that maximized reflective brightness in the low-light interiors of the Regency era. This significantly beautiful necklace was most likely created between 1815 and 1820, at the height of neoclassical influence. A closely related jewel can be seen worn as a tiara by Empress Joséphine, underscoring the aristocratic lineage and imperial taste that informed such designs. Indeed, this spectacular treasure would be entirely at home in a royal collection—and quite possibly once was, at some point in its unquestionably thrilling past. The aquamarine is secured by sixteen individual high-karat gold prongs, masterfully executed, and is surrounded by four diamond-set foliate clusters oriented north, south, east, and west. Each cluster is anchored by a larger antique diamond, lending visual structure and balance to the composition. The pear-shaped diamond above the aquamarine weighs approximately 0.40 carats. The oval diamond below also weighs approximately 0.40 carats. The two cushion-cut Old Mine diamonds flanking the sides weigh approximately 0.20 carats each. The remaining antique diamonds total at least one additional carat, bringing the total diamond weight to approximately 2 carats. All are charismatic Old Mine cuts, save for one single-cut replacement, and range in color from near-colorless to very faint yellow. As collectors know, Old Mine diamonds are prized not for uniformity but for individuality—each hand-cut by a different craftsman, no two exactly alike, and all possessing a deep, saturated fire unmatched by modern cutting. Three additional collet-set diamonds lead gracefully upward to the 18K yellow gold paperclip chain, a tasteful later addition that complements the pendant without competing with it. The chain is beautifully constructed with slender rectangular links joined by ovals and measures 19.5 inches in length, while the pendant itself drops an additional 1¾ inches. At the base of the pendant is a discreet gold bail, allowing for the optional addition of a secondary element—perhaps a collet-set diamond or a pearl. A skilled jeweler could also readily adapt the pendant for mounting within a silver tiara frame, making this an extraordinary bridal jewel—something blue, in the grandest historical sense. This is a magnificent antique jewel of supreme beauty, rarity, and importance, remarkable for its scale, craftsmanship, and aristocratic presence. Pieces of this caliber, particularly from the Regency period, are increasingly scarce and seldom appear on the market.
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    14.7 g
  • Dimensions:
    Width: 1.29 in (32.77 mm)Length: 1.75 in (44.45 mm)
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    circa 1820-1840
  • Condition:
    Additions or alterations made to the original: Chain is a later edition. Replacements made. Wear consistent with age and use. The aquamarine shows expected light wear.
  • Seller Location:
    Northampton, MA
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU1589113344572

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