In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891–1965) launched his eponymous jewelry house with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His pieces were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.
A love of tradition set Mario and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family, which is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.
A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.
Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.
One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.
Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.
The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.
In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati jewelry, including earrings, necklaces, rings and other accessories.
Buccellati Diamond "Etoile" Necklace In 18k Yellow & White Gold
By Buccellati
Located in New York, NY
Buccellati Diamond "Etoile" Necklace In 18k Yellow & White Gold. The necklace features 18k yellow gold twisted thread open metalwork, creating rhomboidal shapes, each accented wi...
Diamond, White Gold
Diamond Riviera Necklace in 14k White Gold.
Located in New York, NY
Diamond riviera necklace in 14k white gold. The necklace features graduating row round brilliant cut diamonds of three prong set in 14k white gold. Equipped with the box clasp with f...
Diamond, White Gold
Graff Diamond Necklace
By Graff
Located in New York, NY
GRAFF DIAMOND NECKLACE This necklace has circular cut diamonds weighing a total of 34.46 carats very fine quality diamonds all set in 18k white...
Diamond, 18k Gold
NALLY JEWELS Diamond "Riviere" Necklace.
Located in New York, NY
Diamond "Riviere" Necklace. The necklace is set with total of 78 round brilliant cut diamonds weighing total of approximately 20 carats, color F/ G, clarity VS. Platinum Secured wit...
Diamond, Platinum
Impressive 18k gold and Diamond Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Impressive 18k yellow gold statement necklace with diamond accents. This impressive necklace of wavy design yellow gold links. Fifteen of the links (including center piece) and clasp...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Giovane Large Link Diamond Necklace
By Giovane
Located in New York, NY
Giovani large link diamond necklace in 18k white gold. the necklace is set pave set with rose cut diamonds weighing total of approx 125ct. Length 16". W...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Diamond Link Necklace
Located in New York, NY
Diamond Link Necklace A diamond necklace set with round & baguette cut diamonds set in white gold. Round Cut Diamond Necklace Approximate Weight: 29.70 cts Baguette Cut Diamond Nec...
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
18k White Gold Natural 6.24 Carat Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Link Necklace
Located in Boca Raton, FL
18k White Gold Natural 6.24 Carat Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Link Necklace This is a super unique, vintage, natural diamond link necklace. There are 6.24 carats of diamonds, all se...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
10.51CT Natural Diamond SI/H Choker Torque Circle Necklace 14K White Gold
By Spectrum Jewels
Located in Deira, Dubai
Geometric perfection rendered in 14-karat white gold and 10.51 carats of SI/H-graded natural diamonds, this rigid torque circle necklace embodies the reductive luxury that defines the finest contemporary fine jewelry. Each diamond is channel-set in seamless succession around the circumference, creating an unbroken halo of light that encircles the neck with minimalist authority. The closed torque form — a silhouette that carries resonance from classical antiquity through Art Deco modernism into the vocabulary of contemporary luxury — sits at the collarbone with structural elegance. The polished white gold shoulders provide a clean architectural terminus that completes the form with refinement. Conceived for the collector who gravitates toward pieces of conceptual clarity and investment-grade material quality, this necklace functions as a signature jewel — distinctive, understated in excess, and permanently relevant. The ideal acquisition for a primary fine jewelry wardrobe. Details Item Code :- SECK-9547A (14k) Gross Wt. :- 23.75 gm 14k White Gold Wt. :- 21.65 gm Natural Diamond Wt. :- 10.51 Ct. ( AVERAGE DIAMOND CLARITY SI1-SI2 & COLOR H-I ) Chain Length :- 16 inches Long Keyword Cluster10.51 carat diamond torque necklace · natural diamond circle choker necklace · SI/H diamond minimalist necklace 14K · white gold diamond torque choker · fine jewelry diamond circle necklace · contemporary diamond choker collector · luxury minimalist diamond necklace USA · channel set diamond torque necklace · investment diamond necklace white gold · Art Deco diamond choker...
Diamond, Gold, White Gold, 14k Gold
107 Carat Diamond Necklace
By Diana M. Jewels
Located in New York, NY
Magnificent 18K white gold diamond necklace, features round brilliant cut diamonds, all collection quality diamonds, connected by 19 circles, totaling 107 carats (also has matching ...
Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
38 Carat Round and Baguette Diamond Necklace
By Antinori Fine Jewels
Located in Chicago, IL
Round Brilliant & Baguette Cut Diamonds Necklace.
Diamond, White Diamond, White Gold, 14k Gold
18K White Gold Diamond Necklace 2.00ct
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
18k white gold diamond necklace. There are 2.00tdw of round brilliant diamonds. All VS, G-H Color. 16.5in long, weighs 18.2gr
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Benchmark of Palm Beach weighs in on the "Prince of Goldsmiths."
A deluxe new book explores the celebrated fifth-generation Italian jeweler’s heritage and inimitable style.
