In 1919, Mario Buccellati (1891–1965) launched his eponymous jewelry house with the opening of his first shop in Milan and quickly built a reputation for his richly embellished traforato, or finely pierced goldwork. The Ancona, Italy–born jeweler’s workmanship was in a class of its own. His pieces were exquisite, yet the gemstones themselves were never too flashy, elevated instead by the designs’ intricate metalsmithing.
A love of tradition set Mario and his fine jewelry house apart in the competitive Italian market and remains a point of pride for the family, which is still closely tied to the business even as it is now owned by Richemont, a luxury conglomerate that also counts Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels among its subsidiaries.
A young Mario Buccellati apprenticed with famed goldsmith Beltrami e Besnati in the early 1900s, although many of the goldsmithing techniques synonymous with Buccellati go as far back as the Italian Renaissance. The family lineage is also said to include 18th-century jeweler Contardo Buccellati.
Owing to the founder’s advanced metalworking skills, the brand is known for designs that feature metal with the delicacy of lace and draw on the wonders of the natural world. The house’s work is typified by intricate gemstone settings that emphasize their natural color and dense engraving techniques that transform the texture of gold.
One of the time-honored engraving techniques that has come to characterize Buccellati’s work — techniques that require apprenticeships and training in the fine jeweler’s workshops — is called rigato. It involves the engraving of a precious metal with a series of parallel lines to achieve a fabric-like effect.
Rigato is on luminous display in the house’s Macri collection of earrings, cuff bracelets and other accessories. A painstaking attention to detail is pronounced in the celebrated Macri, Bartolomeo and Unica collections — witness the striking honeycomb motif, a house signature, that characterizes the Unica collection’s Caterina bracelet, for example.
The Macri collection was the work of Mario’s son, Gianmaria Buccellati, an award-winning jeweler and internationally renowned silversmith who worked to bring the brand to the global stage by overseeing the opening of boutiques in Tokyo, Paris, California and elsewhere.
In 1951, Mario opened his first store in New York City; today the company operates boutiques worldwide. In 2019, the company celebrated its centennial with a new flagship in Paris and the Vintage collection, which features some of its most enduring designs.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of authentic Buccellati jewelry, including earrings, necklaces, rings and other accessories.
Tiffany & Co 1940s 14k Gold Compact Mirror Box With Ruby Detail
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Scottsdale, AZ
This exquisite compact mirror box from Tiffany & Co., dating back to the 1940s, is a stunning representation of vintage elegance and craftsmanship. Crafted from 14k gold, the sur...
14k Gold
Tiffany & Co. Ruby Diamond Gold Compact Powder Case
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
The compact features square step-cut rubies weighing a total of approximately 1.25 carats, enhanced by single-cut diamonds weighing a total of 0.15 carat, set in 14k gold, marked Tif...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mario Buccellati Silver and Gold Compact with Rubies, Italy, 1940s
By Mario Buccellati
Located in Napoli, NA
An elegant and highly collectible powder compact by Mario Buccellati, crafted in Italy in the 1940s. Executed in solid 800 silver, the case features the maison’s iconic hand-engraved...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
M. Buccellati Vintage Diamond Ruby Sapphire 18k Gold Compact Box
By Mario Buccellati
Located in Miami, FL
Stand out with this vintage compact box from the known Mario Buccellati, from around the 1940s, is Italian-made and crafted completely in solid 18K yellow gold. Features a closure ...
Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Mario Buccellati Vintage Diamond Gold Compact Box
By Mario Buccellati
Located in Miami, FL
This Mario Buccellati vintage diamond 18K yellow gold compact box from 1940's features a diamond accent closure in 18K white gold with rose-cut diam...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold
Vintage 1950s David Webb Gold Clutch with 10.00 Carat Ruby and Diamonds
By David Webb
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k with a carved Ruby weighing approximately 10.00 carats, 44 Round Brilliant cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 4.00 carats, and a mirror. Signed by D...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage Cartier Ruby Floral Pill Box
By Cartier
Located in London, GB
Here we have a truly exquisite 18ct yellow gold pill box by the renowned luxury jeweller Cartier. Beautifully crafted, the box is adorned with an intricate floral motif and accented ...
Ruby, 18k Gold
1950s Faraone Ruby Sapphire Diamond 18 Karat Gold Compact
By Faraone
Located in Idar-Oberstein, DE
A chic 18k gold compact by the Italian company Faraone, studded with high quality rectangular cut rubies, diamonds and sapphires in the colors of the ...
Blue Sapphire, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
9k Yellow Gold and Ruby Compact by Boucheron (1964)
By Boucheron
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive vintage 9 karat yellow gold and 0.86 carat ruby compact made by Boucheron - boxed; an addition to our diverse ornamental collection. This exceptional vintage 9 karat yellow gold case has a rectangular form, with a convex base and cover. The surface of the box is embellished with impressive engine turned decoration. This exceptional gold compact is fitted with an impressive flush hinged cover; the flush hinge indicates the high quality of the piece. The anterior edge of the cover features a push fit catch ornamented with an impressive collet set 0.86ct cabochon cut ruby. This impressive compact opens to reveal the original integrated bevelled mirror and powder compartment; this compact can be used without the original inset, detachable gold powder holder. The interior rim of the case bears the renowned maker's/retailer's mark 'Boucheron', in addition to full London hallmarks to the base. This exceptional Boucheron compact...
Gold
Enamel Box with Diamond and Rubies Handcrafted in 18 Karat Gold
By Jay Rawat
Located in Jaipur, IN
A beautiful box with fine enamel work studded with Diamonds and Rubies. Similar enamel work can be seen in Indian and Mughal jewellery from centuries ag...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Russian Art Nouveau Gold Enamel Pill Box
Located in New York City, NY
Rare and unusual Art Nouveau 14K two tone gold and enamel pill box. It features an enamel top with grape leaves motif around it; also features an intri...
18k Gold
Boucheron Paris Sapphire Diamond Gold Compact Case
By Boucheron
Located in New York City, NY
Ornate and unusual 18K yellow gold, diamond and sapphire compact case by Boucheron Paris, circa 1940s. It features an inside door and a large mirror o...
Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold
Antique French Ruby 18 Karat Gold Perfume Bottle
Located in New York City, NY
Very fine and unusual ruby and 18K yellow gold perfume bottle of French origin, circa late 19th century. Originally from the estate of Queen Nazli of Egypt. Hallmarks: maker's mark...
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
De Grisogono Pink Sapphire Black White Diamond 18 Karat White Gold Ring
By de GRISOGONO
Located in New York City, NY
Fine pink sapphire, black and white diamond ring set in 18k white gold, by De Grisogono. It features high grade round pink sapphires and black/white round cut diamonds in an abstrac...
Diamond, Black Diamond, Pink Sapphire, 18k Gold, White Gold
Russian 19th Century Enamel Diamond Gold Cufflinks
Located in New York City, NY
Rare diamond, enamel and 14K yellow gold cufflinks of Russian origin, circa 1880s. They feature old cut diamonds, surrounded by white enamel. Hallmarks:56 zolotniks mark, maker's ...
Diamond, 14k Gold
Antique Russian Diamond Enamel and Gold Cross Pendant
Located in New York City, NY
Fine diamond, enamel and 14K gold cross pendant of Russian origin, circa early 20th century. It features an ornate design with navy blue and white enamel. Diamonds are old cut. Hall...
14k Gold
Benchmark of Palm Beach weighs in on the "Prince of Goldsmiths."
A deluxe new book explores the celebrated fifth-generation Italian jeweler’s heritage and inimitable style.
