For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Cartier Silver Plated 20th Century Fox Velvet Lined Box #17612
By Cartier
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Cartier Silver Plated 20th Century Fox Velvet Lined Box This gorgeous 20th Century Fox box by designer Cartier is silver plated with a gorgeous velvet lined inside! Size: 22cm X 14...
Silver Plate
$6,143
H 3.55 in W 9.45 in D 6.7 in
Handsome Antique Sterling Silver Double Sided Cigar Box - London 1915
Located in London, London
Hallmarked in London in 1915 by James Samuel Bell, this very handsome, Antique Sterling Silver Cigar Box, is double sided and plain in design, with a...
Sterling Silver
Antique Cigar Box by William Summers, Solid Silver, London, 1876
By William Summers 1
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Antique 19th Century English solid silver cigar box of rectangular form, with smooth sides and a heavy gauge. The hinged lid features a mounted curved handle on one side. Hallmarked...
Silver
$4,386
H 0.99 in W 5.71 in D 3.04 in
20thC English Solid Silver & 9K Gold Cigar Case By Cartier Of New Bond St c.1929
By Cartier
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
A 20th century English solid silver and 9k gold cigar case by Cartier. The lid and base are decorated with raised gold inlaid bands over a finely engine-turned ground. Applied to the...
Gold, Silver
$4,110
H 5.71 in W 9.45 in D 6.7 in
Antique 20th Century Edwardian Solid Silver Cigar Box, London c.1909
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Antique 20th Century Edwardian solid silver cigar box. Finely crafted, it features a curved central handle and two hinged lids, which open to reveal a divided compartment. The handle...
Silver
Handsome Victorian Sterling Silver Cigar Box, London 1899
Located in London, London
Hallmarked in London in 1899 by Henry Stuart Brown this handsome Victorian antique sterling silver cigar box is of a plain, rectangular form with a ...
Sterling Silver
Art Deco Style 1960s Sterling Silver Cigarette Box
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
An exceptional, fine and impressive vintage Elizabeth II English sterling silver cigarette box in the Art Deco style; an addition to the ornamental silverware collection. This exceptional vintage Elizabeth II sterling silver cigarette box has a plain rectangular form onto four bracket style feet. The surface of this impressive silver box is embellished with impressive engine turned decoration. The box is fitted with two hallmarked hinged covers each embellished with further panels of engine turned decoration in addition to an applied leaf border which continues across a central plateau. The interior of each solid silver cover features a paralleling band of engine turned decoration in addition to the part hallmarks; decoration to the posterior surface of a cover is an indication of the fine quality of a piece. The central plateau is surmounted with an impressive shaped handle, in the Art Deco style. The body of this exceptional box features the original cedar wood lining. This antique Art Deco cigarette box has a weighted base and retains the original leatherette covering to the underside. The box is supported by four impressive cast silver, Art Deco style stepped bracket feet. By virtue of its size this versatile vintage cigarette box could be used for a multitude of functions. Note: The majority of such boxes have a wood lining to the cover; it is a sign of quality when boxes have an unlined, solid silver covers. Condition This vintage silver cigarette box...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Antique 19th Century Victorian Solid Silver Cigar Box c.1898
Located in Royal Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Antique 19th Century Victorian solid silver cigar box. Elegantly crafted, this box features a shaped central handle and two hinged lids that open to reveal a divided compartment and ...
Silver
Camusso Edwardian Classical Sterling Silver Box
By Carlo Mario Camusso
Located in New York, NY
Edwardian Classical sterling silver box, ca 1950. Rectangular concave sides and inset foot. Cover hinged with curved top, cutout scroll tab, and applied s-scroll rim. Cover interior ...
Sterling Silver
$11,361
H 3.75 in W 12.01 in D 7.09 in
Antique Victorian Sterling Silver Cigar Box, A. & J. Zimmerman, 1899
By A&J Zimmerman Ltd.
Located in London, London
Hallmarked in Birmingham in 1899 by A. & J. Zimmerman, this fine Antique Victorian sterling silver cigar box has a plain rectangular form with rounded corners. The box features a...
Sterling Silver
Cartier understands the value of preserving the signature codes of great design, and how to tweak it for modern aficionados.
Throughout the season, timepieces are clues to the characters' character.
