One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.
The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)
Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.
But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.
Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.
Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
French Art Deco Enamel and Gilt Box by Van Cleef & Arpels
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Atlanta, GA
An Art Deco style enamel and gilt metal box made by French Jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels circa 1930s. The box was most likely used for cigarette (and small bills) and it has an elegant ...
Metal
$28,800Sale Price|55% Off
H 0.4 in W 2.76 in D 2.76 in
Van Cleef & Arpels Solid 750 Gold (18K) Vanity Case (129 grams - 4.6 oz)
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Porto, PT
Description: Gold toiletry case with embossed flowers, interior mirror, powder dispenser and hinged lid. Metal: Gold Origin: French Brand: Eagle Head Weight: 129.33 grams Dimensions:...
Gold
$2,800
H 0.4 in W 3.39 in D 1.97 in
Elegant Gold and Diamond Compact by Van Cleef & Arpels, Circa 1935-40
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, US
This exquisite compact, crafted by the renowned Maison Van Cleef & Arpels, exemplifies the artistry and sophistication of the late Art Deco period. Rectangular in shape, the compact ...
Gold
Italian Made 18K Gold 1940s Engine Turned CIGARETTE CASE Box 161.6 Gram
Located in Santa Monica, CA
Italian Made 18K Gold 1940s Engine Turned CIGARETTE CASE Box 161.6 gram 3.5 inch by 3 inch by 3/8 inch thick In good condition for its age, no damag...
18k Gold
Cartier Antique Solid 14K Gold Cigarette Case, 149.2 Grams, Early 20th Century
By Cartier
Located in Tysons, VA
An exceptional antique Cartier cigarette case crafted in solid 14K gold, dating to the early 20th century. This distinguished piece reflects Cartier’...
14k Gold
Cartier Antique Solid 14K Gold Cigarette Case, 149.2 Grams, Early 20th Century
By Cartier
Located in Tysons, VA
An exceptional antique Cartier cigarette case crafted in solid 14K gold, dating to the early 20th century. This distinguished piece reflects Cartier’s renowned mastery in producing refined personal luxury accessories during one of the most celebrated periods of the maison’s history. The case has a substantial weight of 149.2 grams, demonstrating its solid gold construction and superior craftsmanship. Its elegant form, precise engineering, and balanced proportions exemplify Cartier’s uncompromising standards and timeless aesthetic. Pieces of this nature were produced for elite clientele and represent both functional luxury and enduring collectible value. Cartier vanity and smoking accessories from this era are increasingly rare, particularly in such substantial gold weight and preserved condition. The case represents an important example of early Cartier production and serves as both a functional object and a significant collector’s piece. This exceptional Cartier cigarette case would make a distinguished addition to any serious Cartier collection, luxury accessory collection, or antique gold object...
14k Gold
$14,014
W 3.15 in L 5.56 in
Gustave-Roger Sandoz, Rare Art Deco Silver and Enamel Cigarette Case, circa 1925
Located in Paris, FR
Express Shipping still available during Lockdown Gustave-Roger Sandoz Cigarette Case, Circa 1925 Silver with Enamel geometric decoration on both sides. The clasp set with a cabochon...
Onyx, Silver
$1,425
W 3.15 in D 0.56 in L 3.35 in
Antique European Cigarette case box solid 925 Gilt Silver / 155 gr
Located in SE
Early 20th century solid Sterling Silver cigarette case of excellent quality with engraved decorative pattern on both side, gilt parts and handy nail - catcher attached. Measurement...
Sterling Silver, Gold-filled
Janesich Gold and Enamel Compact
By Janesich
Located in New York, NY
Janesich Gold and Enamel Compact Janesich Gold compact with linear motifs in black enamel. The compact opens to a mirror, a powder compartment, and a ...
Gold, Enamel
Cartier Antique Solid 14K Gold Powder Box, 197 Grams, Early 20th Century Estate
By Cartier
Located in Tysons, VA
An exceptional antique Cartier powder box crafted in solid 14K gold, dating to the early 20th century. This remarkable vanity accessory exemplifies Cart...
14k Gold
Cartier Sterling Silver and Ebony Picture Frame
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 2000 Cartier .925 Sterling Silver Picture Frame, measuring 10 1/4 X 8 1/4 inches. Having a Ribbed Art Deco design, new, never used in original Dust pouch and box.
Sterling Silver
Hollywood Icon Jerry Lewis owned Yellow Gold Lighter By William Ruser
By William Ruser
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1970s Hollywood Icon Jerry Lewis personally owned and used 14k Yellow Gold Lighter by William Ruser the Famous Jeweler to the stars, measuring 2 3/16 inches X 1 1/4 inches and ...
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier 1/8 ounce Gold ingot Charm
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1980 Cartier 1/8 ounce 18k Gold Ingot charm, measuring 1/2 x 5/16 inch, signed and numbered. Cartier suede travel pouch.
Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Yellow Gold and Ruby set Cufflinks
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1980 Van Cleef & Arpels 18k Yellow Gold Cufflinks, having a Ribbed Bar design, the smaller portion is hinged for easy self on and off, the center sections are set with stepped ...
Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier Vintage Stepped Case Mechanical 18k Gold Plate Wrist watch
By Cartier
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1970s Cartier Mid size Triple Stepped case Wrist Watch, 28 x 28 M.M. 18k Gold Electroplate 2 piece case, original and Excellent, Mint condition Chocolate brown dial with Gold R...
Gold Plate
Gucci Vintage Gold and Enamel Classic Buckle Bracelet
By Gucci
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1970s Gucci Italy 18k Yellow Gold Bracelet with Gucci iconic Buckle clasp, measuring 5/8 inch wide with a wrist measurement of 6 3/4 inches and is adjustable. Finished in the f...
Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
