Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Antique R. Blackinton & Co. Sterling Silver Floral Repousse Card Holder
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique American silver card holder. By R. Blackinton & Co. In sterling silver. With repousse stylized floral decoration to the front and wavy engraved patterns to both sid...
Sterling Silver
Art Noveau 14k Yellow Gold Lorgnette
Located in Bernardsville, NJ
A gold lorgnette is an elegant and vintage accessory, designed as a pair of spectacles without arms. The lorgnette's compact design and sophisticated appeal made it a popular access...
14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Austrian Jugendstil/Nouveau Silver & MOP Seal with Flowers & Lady's Face
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine Austrian letter seal (or so-called Petschaft). In silver with traces of gilding and inlaid panels of mother of pearl. The body with an embossed woman in profile with long fl...
Silver
WMF Art Nouveau Jugendstil Photograph Frame Germany, C.1900
By WMF Württembergische Metallwarenfabrik
Located in Toronto, ON
WMF Art Nouveau Jugendstil Britannia metal Photograph Frame, Germany C.1900, WMF. Ref No 90 page 304 WMF 1906 catalogue. WMF marks B 1/0 beehive B and...
Antique Art Nouveau Flower Silver Seal Initials A B
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This Art Nouveau desktop seal is engraved with the ligated initials A and B. Around the handle is a typical Art Nouveau entwined flower and leaf motive. The...
Silver
Antique Art Nouveau Desk Top Seal Fluorite Fluorspar Silver Iris Initials E M J
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This unusual silver French desk top seal with a chunky violet fluorite handle has been handcrafted in 1895 ca. The fluorite fluorspar is set in a silver mount and decorated with iris...
Fluorite, Silver
Faberge Gold, Enamel and Hardstone Desk Seal
Faberge Jade Gold Important Nephrite Cache Pot by Michael Perchin, circa 1890
By Fabergé
Located in London, GB
A late nineteenth century Fabergé nephrite cache pot carved from a single piece of nephrite, the two colour gold rim top and base decorated with acanthu...
Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
$10,990Sale Price|30% Off
A Rare Austrian Art Nouveau Silver and Enamel Owl Seal by Georg Adam Scheid
Located in Long Island City, NY
Charming and Rare Austrian Art Nouveau Silver and Enamel Owl Seal by Georg Adam Scheid. A rare and enchanting work of Viennese decorative art, this early 20th-century Austrian silve...
Silver, Enamel
Antique Art Nouveau Bronze Leather Chrysanthemum Flower Case Box
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This stunning Art Nouveau gift box is executed in bronze and gold embossed blue leather. The round bronze lid is designed as a chrysanthemum and has a beautiful patina. The inside i...
Bronze
c. 1890-1900 Art Nouveau Sterling Silver Wax Seal with Muse Figure
Located in Honolulu, HI
A masterpiece of late 19th-century craftsmanship. This wax seal features an exquisite Art Nouveau Muse figure sculpted in fine sterling silver. The intricate detailing on the woman’s...
Sterling Silver
Tiffany Studios Gilt Bronze Vase Base Candlestick circa 1910 Bronze Dore
Located in New York, NY
This is an acid-etched Tiffany Studios bronze base for a vase, or it may be used as a candlestick. It is a standalone candlestick without the glass vase or insert. The tongs that hold a vase in place are in excellent condition, and the bottom is clearly stamped with the Tiffany Studios marks...
Bronze
Antique Art Nouveau Silver Pine Cone Desktop Seal France
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This silver seal with an unused signet plate epitomizes strong French Art Nouveau design. Beautiful swirls, expressive pine branches and cones make uo this harmonious decor. The sea...
Silver
Art Nouveau Edouard Henry Dreyfous Desk Clip
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
This exceedingly unusual desk accessory is an ornate 'paper clip' by the noted maker, Dreyfous. The clip is crafted from gilt sterling silver and features a large slab of polished am...
Amazonite, Marcasite, Sterling Silver, Gilt Metal
$145
H 0.3 in W 0.3 in L 5.51 in
Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Germany Sterling Silver Ballpoint Pen #24440
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Germany Sterling Silver Ballpoint Pen - This authentic Tiffany & Co. ballpoint pen designed by Elsa Peretti is crafted in sterling silver and made...
Sterling Silver
Tiffany & Co Social Security Money Clip Sterling Silver Estate
Located in Brooklyn, NY
Authentic Tiffany & Co Social Security Money Clip Sterling Silver Estate TIF891 A sleek and elegant piece, ideal for daily use or as a thoughtful gift. TRUSTED SELLER SINCE 200...
Sterling Silver
Antique Silver Hand Letter Paper Clip
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Highly unusual paperclip in the form of a silver bejewelled Ladies hand with an elaborate lace cuff and a bracelet. The hand is mounted on a fabric covered base.
Silver
Antique Swivel Seal Pendant/Charm Carnelian & Blood-Stone British Hallmarked
Located in London, GB
Antique swivel seal pendant set with Carnelian and Blood-Stone set in 9-carat rose gold, British Hallmarked Birmingham 1900, Sponsor mark "M&M". Could ...
Carnelian, 9k Gold
$9,500
H 4.25 in W 5.25 in L 9 in
Antique German Figural Renaissance Revival Solid Silver Table Box or Casket
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A very fine Renaissance Revival table box or casket. In solid silver (likely 800 fine). Likely by Gebrüder Neumann or Storck & Sinsheimer of Hanau, Germany. (Storck & Sinsh...
Silver
Art Deco 18 Karat Solid Yellow Gold Wahl Eversharp Mechanical Pencil
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
One Art Deco 18 Karat Solid Yellow Gold Wahl Eversharp Mechanical Pencil. 18k yellow gold signed Wahl Eversharp. Engraving reads “C. H. M. Jr.” 0.50mm lead. Vintage box included. Cir...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Seal Sunflower Sunburst Motto Agate Bloodstone Gold Pendant Italy
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Wonderful example of an Empire gold seal with an Italian motto engraved in an oval bloodstone: "giamai ingrato". The intaglio depicts a field with a sunflower, a river or a lake, a s...
Agate, Gold
Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Wax Seal with Hand Carved Jade Bird Handle
Located in Palm Beach, FL
This unique, Circa 1800, wax seal begins with an 18K yellow gold base monogrammed with MLO, upon which sits a beautifully carved jade bird. The Jade ...
Jade, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
$478Sale Price / item|20% Off
W 0.25 in D 0.25 in L 4.75 in
Tiffany & Co. 1981 Angela Cummings Aerodynamic Twisted Pen .925 Sterling Silver
By Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Sculptural twisted pen designed by Angela Cummings. Sculptural pen, created back in the 1981 in New York city at the Tiffany Studios. This fabulous sculpt...
Sterling Silver, Silver
$1,250
H 5.25 in W 3.38 in D 2.5 in
Postmodern Silver Plate 'Ripple' Photo Frame by TsAO & McKown for Swid Powell
By Swid Powell
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A wonderful postmodern silver-plated easel back frame. Designed by TsAO & Mckown for Swid Powell. Model no. 3311 - entitled the "Ripple" frame. Comprising a one-piece, welded ease...
Silver Plate
French, Cigar Shaped Onyx Desk Seal with Diamond Collar & Morocco Leather Case
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
This exquisite desk object was crafted in France during the early 20th Century and would have been an impressive object to own. The desk seal is crafted from a cigar shaped piece of black onyx which features a diamond set collar to one end and a monogram intaglio 'seal' to the other, all circa 1915. The monogram is 'AMF' which has been beautifully engraved into the underside of the seal. The piece retains its original Morocco leather fitted box signed 'Appay', a French manufacturer, and embossed 'AMF' to the top of the lid. The firm Appay were retailing at 24 Rue De La Paix in Paris which is close-by the Place Vendome and also the Opera, however little information is known about the business. The hinge on the Morocco leather box...
Diamond, Onyx
Tiffany & Co. Vintage 14k Yellow Gold Ballpoint Pen and Pencil Set
Located in Simpsonville, SC
Exude timeless sophistication with this Tiffany & Co. Vintage 14K Yellow Gold Ballpoint Pen (blue ink) and Pencil Set, a masterful blend of luxury, elegance, and functionality. Craft...
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late Qing Nephrite Jade Scholar’s Carving of Bamboo Cup with Squirrel, Grapes
Located in Northampton, MA
This exquisitely carved nephrite jade sculpture dates to the late Qing to very early Republic period, approximately 1880–1920, and is a beautif...
Jade
Georg Jensen Denmark Acorn Sterling Silver Handle Letter Opener #19466
By Georg Jensen
Located in Washington Depot, CT
Sterling silver handle stainless blade letter opener in the Acorn pattern by Georg Jensen. The Acorn pattern was introduced in 1915 as a collaboration between Georg Jensen and desig...
Sterling Silver
Jugendstil Inkwell & Tray Attributed to Erhard & Söhne
Located in Brisbane City, QLD
Crafted in Germany during the Art Nouveau era, this brass and rosewood inkwell and stand is attributed to makers Erhard & Söhne. The ornate 'Jugendstil' style stand has been crafted ...
Brass
Tiffany Studios Gilt Bronze Tazza Footed Bowl Lily Pad Lotus Motif, circa 1910
Located in New York, NY
This is a rare Tiffany Studios Art Nouveau gilt bronze, bronze dore Tazza or Footed Bowl, circa 1910, impressed Tiffany Studios New York 17...
Bronze
Antique French 18ct Gold Thimble, 19th Century
Located in NEWARK, GB
This charming antique, French 19th century 18ct gold thimble. The gold has warm rosey tones to it washing over the yellow gold ground with a decorative quatrefoil pattern to the low...
Gold, 18k Gold
Antique Silver Desk Pen Stand Brush Wipe, London 1902 William Comyns
Located in Toronto, ON
Antique Silver Quill Pen Stand Nib Brush Wipe, London 1902 William Comyns. Very unusual combination with pen stand, plain with an arts and crafts nou...
Silver
Fabergé Jewelled and Enameled Gold and Hardstone Seal
By Fabergé
Located in London, GB
A Faberge' jewelled and enamelled gold and hardstone seal, the flat oval handle inset at both sides with a moss agate panel over sunburst engine-turning within a rose-cut diamond-set border, the mount enamelled in opaque white, the collar with swirled fluting within further diamonds, blank nephrite matrix, workmaster Henrik Wigström, St Petersburg, circa 1910. Should you choose to make this purchase we would be delighted to send it to you in a Bentley & Skinner handmade leather case packed in a gift-wrapped Bentley & Skinner black and gold presentation box. Shortly afterwards we will send you on a valuation for insurance purposes for your reference and safekeeping. This exquisite hardstone seal was made by Fabergé and comes from the Fabergé collection of Bentley & Skinner, the London jewellers by appointment to both Her Majesty the Queen and His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. Fabergé was established in St Petersburg in 1842, and by the late nineteenth century, was Russia’s largest and best-known jewellery house. The house has become known for their royal commissions and their close ties to the family of Tsar Nicholas II. This seal features a flat oval handle with a gorgeous dendritic agate panel inset. This particular agate has the natural appearance of a miniature treecape, adding fine detail to this piece. Surrounding the handle is a frame of glittering rose-cut diamonds. The mount features white enamel and a fluted design set with diamonds, culminating in a blank matrix made from vibrant nephrite. This piece bears the marks of workmaster Henrik Wigström, who was head workmaster at Fabergé from 1903 onwards. This antique Fabergé seal...
Agate, Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Fabergé Gold-Mounted Guilloche Enamel Desk Clock
By Fabergé
Located in London, GB
An Important Fabergé two-colour gold-mounted guilloche enamel desk clock, marked Fabergé, square, with circular seed-pearl bezel on lilac sunburst guilloché ground, the border enamel...
Gold, Enamel
CRC Flatware Solingen, Germany Stainless Steel 24 Karat Gold-Plated
Located in Neguri, Vizcaya
CRC flatware (Classic Range of Cuisine) , brand Solingen-Germany, 113 items of 24 carats gold plated stainless steel, With suitcase with code. The flatware has never been used. The ...
24k Gold, Gold Plate, Steel, Stainless Steel
Art Nouveau French Bronze Gilled Gold Deposé Jewelry Case Floral 1880
Located in Neguri, Vizcaya
French antique casket jewelry box ornate flowers antique bronze collection jewelry case floral 1880´s antique jewelry box made of gilled g...
Diamond, Bronze, Gilt Metal
Antique Art Nouveau Acanthus Silver Horn Desktop Seal France
Located in Munich, Bavaria
Silver acanthus foliage seal with a horn handle. French makers mark in a lozenge, silver hallmarks. The bottom side of the seal has never been used and can be engraved. 1895 ca.
Silver
Art Nouveau Sterling Silver and Enamel Frame, English, circa 1900
Located in Aspen, CO
Shaded peacock color enamel accent the corners of this antique sterling silver frame. This period piece bears the English marks of a sm...
Sterling Silver