For its extraordinary range of bracelets, watches, rings and other adornments, French luxury house Cartier is undeniably one of the most well known and internationally revered jewelers in the world among clients both existing and aspirational.
Perhaps 1847 was not the ideal time to open a new watchmaking and jewelry business, as the French Revolution was not kind to the aristocracy who could afford such luxuries. Nevertheless, it was the year Louis-François Cartier (1819–1904) — who was born into poverty — founded his eponymous empire, assuming control of the workshop of watchmaker Adolphe Picard, under whom he had previously been employed as an assistant. Of course, in the beginning, it was a relatively modest affair, but by the late 1850s, Cartier had its first royal client, Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, niece of Napoleon Bonaparte, who commissioned the jeweler to design brooches, earrings and other accessories.
Under the leadership of Louis-François’s son, Alfred, who took over in 1874, business boomed. Royalty around the world wore Cartier pieces, including Tsar Nicholas II of Russia, the Maharaja of Patiala and King Edward VII, who had 27 tiaras made by the jewelry house for his coronation in 1902 and issued Cartier a royal warrant in 1904. (Today, the British royal family still dons Cartier pieces; Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, regularly sports a Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch.)
Cartier’s golden years, however, began when Alfred introduced his three sons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, to the business. The brothers expanded Cartier globally: Louis reigned in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London, ensuring their brand’s consistency at their branches across the world. The trio also brought in such talents as Charles Jacqueau and Jeanne Toussaint.
One of Cartier’s earliest major successes was the Santos de Cartier watch — one of the world's first modern wristwatches for men. (Previously, a large number of people were using only pocket watches.) Louis designed the timepiece in 1904 for his friend, popular Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to check the time more easily while flying.
Cartier’s other famous timepieces include the Tank watch, which was inspired by the linear form of military tanks during World War I, and the so-called mystery clocks. Invented by watchmaker and magician Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin and later crafted exclusively for Cartier in the house’s workshop by watchmaker Maurice Couët, the mystery clocks were so named because the integration of glass dials on which the clocks’ hands would seemingly float as well as structures that are hidden away within the base give the illusion that they operate without machinery.
On the jewelry side of the business, Cartier’s internationally renowned offerings include the Tutti Frutti collection, which featured colorful carved gemstones inspired by Jacques’s trip to India and grew in popularity during the Art Deco years; the panthère motif, which has been incorporated into everything from brooches to rings; and the Love bracelet, a minimal, modernist locking bangle inspired by medieval chastity belts that transformed fine jewelry.
While the Cartier family sold the business following the death of Pierre in 1964, the brand continues to innovate today, renewing old hits and creating new masterpieces.
Find contemporary and vintage Cartier watches, engagement rings, necklaces and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Art Deco Sapphire Diamond Gold Mesh Purse
By Carter Gough & Co.
Located in Riverdale, NY
Art Deco Diamond, Sapphire and 14k Gold Mesh Deco Flapper Purse from the 1920's. The 14k gold chain mail mesh is finely woven and set onto a frame set w...
Diamond, Pearl, Sapphire, 14k Gold
Fine French Art Deco Enamel and Diamond Figural Bag
Located in Riverdale, NY
Superb French Art Deco Enamel and Diamond Figural Bag from the 1930's. French 18k gold frame with Art Deco vibrant enamels in black, lime green and faux la...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Enamel
Silver and Gold Steamer Trunk Case, Cartier for Cole Porter
By Cartier
Located in Riverdale, NY
Amazing and Rare Silver and Gold Steamer Trunk Case, by Cartier for Cole Porter. Cole Porter, one of Americas leading songwriters and bon vivants of the e...
Gold, 18k Gold, Silver
Art Deco Precious Stone Jewelled Lame Evening Bag
Located in Riverdale, NY
Art Deco Evening Bag of sterling silver set with precious stones such as aquamarines, emeralds and rubies in the Neoclassical taste. The tightly g...
Aquamarine, Emerald, Ruby, Sterling Silver
Joseff Hoffmann Gold Cigarette Case, Wiener Werkstatte
By Wiener Werkstätte
Located in Riverdale, NY
Rare and special Joseff Hoffmann Gold Cigarette Case for the Wiener Werkstatte, circa 1920's. Constructed of 14k gold in typically reeded pattern with ...
Onyx, Gold, 14k Gold
Diamond "Renee" Bag, France
Located in Riverdale, NY
Custom made black silk velvet evening purse decorated with script "RENEE" worked in sparkling pave diamonds. Bag is edged in a fine silk satin piping and is lined in satin as well. Snap closure.
Retailed through Henri Beatrix...
Diamond
Cartier Paris Diamond Gold Evening Purse
By Cartier
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A special piece made in Cartier's Paris workshops, a diamond studded gold evening purse. In excellent condition, this purse opens to reveal a mirror...
18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
CARTIER Paris 1970 Select Trinity Minaudiere Purse In Mughal Silk & 18Kt Gold
By Cartier
Located in Miami, FL
A purse minaudiere designed by Cartier Paris. This is an exceptional, beautiful and extremely rare purse minaudiere created in Paris France by the luxury house of Cartier, back in the 1970. This incredible piece is from the trinity collection, specially crafted for the exclusive Cartier department "S" of "Select de Cartier". Made-up with very fine Mughal silk and eight trinity-motifs accents made in three tones of 18 karats gold. Country: Paris, France. Period: 1970. Style: Mughal, Trinity, Art-Deco. Measurements: 130 mm by 108 mm by 39 mm (5.10 x 4.25 x 1.5 Inches). Length: The triple silk cord can be adjusted from 17 inches to 26 inches. Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark cartouche, French marks and signed as follows, "CARTIER PARIS MADE IN FRANCE". Cartier S History On the 19th of June, 1920, the House of Cartier in Paris created a collection of accessories so special they resembled jewels in their precious materials and expert craftsmanship. This collection was known as "Cartier S for Select", and it was the creation of the brilliant Mme. Jeanne Toussaint. It was her consummate style and taste that led to the design of so many Art Deco objects for which Cartier is famous. Even today, auction houses report record prices whenever a Toussaint creation appears. For two decades, Mme. Toussaint presided over "Department S". With the advent of World War II, the doors of "Department S" closed at least for thirty years. In the 1970 Cartier has recreated again the "Department S" and brought it to New York city. The same rigorous standards of beauty and workmanship, the same precious materials have gone into today's "Department S" Collection. This piece is from a collection of very special evening bags; Cartier S collection is for Select. See the image. Note: Considering that this piece is from the 1970s with almost 50 years of having been manufactured, it was never used. It is an incredible luxury item with its original cased box in perfect condition. Collateral: This Cartier Minaudiere purse...
Gold
Boucheron Paris Solid 18k Gold 1920s Flapper Purse
Located in Honolulu, HI
Engraved with original owners name on the inside. Two blue sapphires are set on the sides of the purse, very rare vintage solid 18k gold purse. Item Specifications: Necklace Metal: 18k Yellow Gold Total Weight: 248.7 Grams Purse Measurements: 8" (when stretched, 5.25" when not stretched) x 5" x 5" Purse Chain...
Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier Paris c.1920's Art Deco Vanity Case In 18k Gold
By Cartier
Located in London, England
A beautifully crafted Vanity case by Cartier in 18-karat yellow and rose gold from the Art Deco period of the 1920s. A stunning and magnificent vanity case, created during the art ...
Blue Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold
Cartier Silk Evening Bag, with gold clasp
By Cartier
Located in Sharon, CT
Cartier Art Deco Evening Bag. Silk with gold thread makes an overall floral pattern. Gold clasp (untested) Silk interior with a gilt monogr...
Vintage 1950s Two-Toned Gold Clutch Bag with Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow and white gold and Round Brilliant cut Diamonds weighing approximately a total of 3.50 carats. Circa 1950s 4 1/2 L x 5 3/4 W x 1 3/8 - 1/2 D inch Comes w...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Cartier understands the value of preserving the signature codes of great design, and how to tweak it for modern aficionados.
Throughout the season, timepieces are clues to the characters' character.
