Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.
As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”
Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.
The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”
Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”
That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”
Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
South Sea Pearl 17mm Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a very beautiful South Sea pearl of 17mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a fine nacre and its natural color and l...
South Sea Pearl, Pearl, White Diamond, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold
South Sea Pearl 16mm Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a large South Sea pearl of 16mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a fine nacre and its natural color and luster hav...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl 17.5mm Diamond Cocktail Ring Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond ring features an untreated pearl of 17.5mm diameter. The pearl displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhanced in an...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond ring features a pearl of 16.5mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhanced...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
18mm South Sea Pearl Gem and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a voluminous gem quality pearl of 18mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a fine nacre and its ...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl 18mm Diamond Cocktail Ring White Gold Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond ring features a pearl of 18mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster ha...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
18K White Gold & Diamonds 15.8 mm South Sea Pearl Cocktail Ring
Located in Hicksville, NY
HAKIMOTO By Jewel Of Ocean 18K white gold & Diamonds cocktail ring with 0.528 carats of round brilliant diamonds, 15.8mm White South Sea cultured pearl at center.
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
15.5mm White South Sea Pearl Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold
Located in Hong Kong, HK
This exquisite piece of jewelry is a statement of luxury and refinement. The ring features a prominent white South Sea pearl, measuring a substantial 15.5mm, which is a size that denotes a high-quality gem. South Sea pearls are among the most coveted in the world, celebrated for their impressive size, satiny luster, and thick nacre. The pearl's overtones seem to reflect a soft iridescence, revealing various subtle colors when light hits its surface. Complementing the pearl are two fancy-cut diamonds on either side, with a total weight of 0.84 carats, suggesting a generous size for each diamond. These diamonds are likely to have a high clarity and brightness, given their prominence in the setting. The term "fancy cut" refers to any diamond shape other than the traditional round cut, indicating that these diamonds may have a unique geometric shape that enhances the ring's visual appeal and showcases the stones' brilliance. Set in 18K white gold—a premium metal choice for fine jewelry—the setting provides a sturdy and luxurious foundation for the stones. White gold is appreciated for its high shine and modern appearance, which does not detract from the brilliance of the diamonds or the luster of the pearl but rather complements it. The gold used in this ring is 75% pure gold mixed with alloys to give it strength and a beautiful white color that pairs well with the clear, icy sparkle of diamonds and the soft glow of the pearl. The ring's design appears to be thoughtfully balanced, with the pearl as the centerpiece. It's a design that would likely stand the test of time, being both classic and contemporary. The way the light plays off the pearl's surface and the fire from the diamonds would be eye-catching. This piece could serve as a luxurious accessory for special occasions, potentially becoming a cherished heirloom due to the timeless design and the enduring quality of the materials used. South Sea Pearl 15mm...
South Sea Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond 18 Carat White Gold Crossover Cocktail Ring
Located in London, GB
This sophisticated cocktail ring features a gorgeous 12mm white South Sea pearl in the centre of a twist cross-over mount, pavè set with round brilliant cut diamonds with an approxi...
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
15.5mm South Sea Pearl Diamond Gold Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A perfectly round 15.5mm South Sea pearl is featured in this gold cocktail ring. The lustrous pearl is surrounded by 2.40 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18K white gold...
Diamond, White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold
Roman Malakov 12 mm Cultured South Sea Pearl & Round Cut Diamond Cocktail Ring
By Roman Malakov
Located in New York, NY
A gorgeous cocktail ring, featuring a beautiful 12 mm cultured south sea pearl, set in a lustrous 18K white gold band. Accented by round brilliant cut diamonds weighing 1.14 carats t...
Diamond, Pearl, Cultured Pearl, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Elegant Ring
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
13-14 mm South Sea Pearl Diamonds: 0.90 Carats 5.50 g.
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold
