One circa 1900 14 karat yellow gold hand-painted blue enamel pansy ring set with a round cut diamond, size 6.75, weighing 4.7 grams. The pansy motif was originally a stick pin mounting, subsequently converted to a ring. 1 round cut diamond measuring 2.3mm and weighing approximately 0.05 carats, G-H color and VS1 clarity, is prong set in yellow gold at the pansy center.
The pansy was among the most symbolically loaded flowers in Victorian and turn of the century jewelry. Its name derives from the French pensée, meaning thought or remembrance, and it was worn as a token of affectionate memory between friends, lovers, and family members. The hand-painted enamel technique used here, in which layers of vitreous enamel are applied and fired to achieve gradation of color and fine painted detail, was a hallmark of the finest late Victorian and early Edwardian decorative work. The enamel on this piece retains its depth and intensity: a deep blue on the upper petals shading to a softer blue at the lower petals, with the characteristic dark radiating lines at the center that give the pansy its distinctive face.
The conversion from stick pin to ring is a period practice and does not compromise the integrity of the mount. The gold shank and setting are proportionate and the transition is cleanly executed. A ring of this type, combining intact painted enamel, diamond, and meaningful floral symbolism, represents the sentimental and artistic ambitions of jewelry at the turn of the century at their most considered. A compelling piece for the collector focused on Victorian or Edwardian enamel jewelry, antique pansy rings...
Category
Early 1900s Antique Yellow Gold Cocktail Rings
MaterialsDiamond, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
