Even before Ella Gafter founded her namesake jewelry collection in 1982, she was a formidable presence in the jewelry industry.
As a Rome-based gem dealer, Gafter sold pearls and precious stones to retailers and jewelers but was often dissatisfied with how they made use of the rare materials she worked so hard to source. Instead of grousing, she decided to design jewels that would do them justice, focusing primarily on pearls — akoya, Tahitian and South Sea. She explains her fascination with the lustrous marine treasures simply: “Every woman looks better with pearls than without.”
Her daughter Talila Gafter, then an undergrad at Harvard, was her ally in getting the project off the ground. Together, they made the rounds to stores with Ella’s first efforts. “We had a little pouch with eight pieces and we sold everything,” Talila tells 1stDibs. After graduation, she “was involved one hundred percent” in building the company, whose pieces are handmade by master jewelers in Naples.
The designer insists that her unwavering focus is the source of her success. “There’s no compromising for me,” she says. She’s been known to replace the pearls in a single piece time after time until she’s certain she’s achieved her ideal result. “A pearl you have to respect,” she explains. “You have to put it where it wants to sit.”
Ella describes the collaboration with her daughter as a “partnership,” with each having her own domain. “I’m all fantasy; Talila is the concrete one,” she says. The company is now based in New York City, with Talila as its president while Ella is firmly at the helm of creative decisions. “I’ve never made a design suggestion to Ella,” says Talila. “Nobody does.”
That forbearance has been earned, says Talila. “I admire that Ella doesn’t take no for an answer, her tenacity, her extraordinary ambition. She believes as long as there is life, there is a lot of beauty to create. She’s a force of nature.”
Find Ella Gafter earrings, rings, necklaces and other jewelry on 1stDibs.
South Sea Pearl Onyx Diamond Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a pearl of 17mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a fine nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhan...
White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
19mm South Sea Pearl And Diamond Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a gem quality pearl of the extraordinary size of 19mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its na...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features a large beautiful pearl of 16.2mm diameter. The pearl is perched on top of a gold design with 2.20 carats of round diamonds set...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl 19.5mm Diamond Onyx Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond cocktail ring features an exceptionally large and beautiful Australian pearl of the rare dimension of 19.5mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It disp...
White Diamond, Onyx, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Cocktail Ring Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
The South Sea pearl and diamond ring features a pearl of 16.5mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhanced...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl 17mm Diamond Ring Art Déco Design by Ella Gafter
By Ella Gafter
Located in New York, NY
This South Sea pearl and diamond ring features a pearl of 17mm diameter. The pearl is untreated. It displays a splendid nacre and its natural color and luster have not been enhanced ...
White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, Crystal, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, White...
South Sea Pearl and Diamond Elegant Ring
By Harbor Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
13-14 mm South Sea Pearl Diamonds: 0.90 Carats 5.50 g.
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold
15.5mm White South Sea Pearl Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold
Located in Hong Kong, HK
This exquisite piece of jewelry is a statement of luxury and refinement. The ring features a prominent white South Sea pearl, measuring a substantial 15.5mm, which is a size that denotes a high-quality gem. South Sea pearls are among the most coveted in the world, celebrated for their impressive size, satiny luster, and thick nacre. The pearl's overtones seem to reflect a soft iridescence, revealing various subtle colors when light hits its surface. Complementing the pearl are two fancy-cut diamonds on either side, with a total weight of 0.84 carats, suggesting a generous size for each diamond. These diamonds are likely to have a high clarity and brightness, given their prominence in the setting. The term "fancy cut" refers to any diamond shape other than the traditional round cut, indicating that these diamonds may have a unique geometric shape that enhances the ring's visual appeal and showcases the stones' brilliance. Set in 18K white gold—a premium metal choice for fine jewelry—the setting provides a sturdy and luxurious foundation for the stones. White gold is appreciated for its high shine and modern appearance, which does not detract from the brilliance of the diamonds or the luster of the pearl but rather complements it. The gold used in this ring is 75% pure gold mixed with alloys to give it strength and a beautiful white color that pairs well with the clear, icy sparkle of diamonds and the soft glow of the pearl. The ring's design appears to be thoughtfully balanced, with the pearl as the centerpiece. It's a design that would likely stand the test of time, being both classic and contemporary. The way the light plays off the pearl's surface and the fire from the diamonds would be eye-catching. This piece could serve as a luxurious accessory for special occasions, potentially becoming a cherished heirloom due to the timeless design and the enduring quality of the materials used. South Sea Pearl 15mm...
South Sea Pearl, Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
15.5mm South Sea Pearl Diamond Gold Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A perfectly round 15.5mm South Sea pearl is featured in this gold cocktail ring. The lustrous pearl is surrounded by 2.40 carats of round brilliant cut diamonds set in 18K white gold...
Diamond, White Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold, Gold
Yoko London Tahitian, South Sea Pearl and Diamond Ring in 18 Karat White Gold
By Yoko London
Located in London, GB
Inspired by the beauty of the night, each piece in the Yoko London Twilight collection showcases the mysterious elegance of dark-toned gems. Featuring an 11-12mm Tahitian and South S...
Diamond, White Diamond, Pearl, Black Pearl, Cultured Pearl, South Sea Pe...
Splendid Natural South Sea Pearl and Diamond 14 Karat Solid White Gold Ring
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Splendid Natural South Sea Pearl and Diamond 14K Solid White Gold Ring Stamped: 14K Total Natural Pearl Measures: Approx. 11.20mm Total Natural Round Diamonds Weight: Approx. 0.65...
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 14k Gold, White Gold
South Sea Pearl Ring with Fancy Shaped Diamonds 1.80 Carats in 18K White Gold
Located in Old Tappan, NJ
18K white gold ring with fancy shaped natural diamonds weighing 1.80 carats total and one natural South Sea pearl measuring 15.86mm. Finger size is 6.5, can be sized up or down by u...
Diamond, South Sea Pearl, 18k Gold, White Gold
