Jewelry designer Jean Schlumberger once said that he strived to “make everything look as if it were growing, uneven, at random, organic, in motion.” His jewels interpreted the vitality of the natural world with lively designs that included a moonstone-topped jellyfish brooch with sapphire tentacles exuding a watery shimmer and a ring encrusted with a burst of diamonds that “bloomed” like a flower bud.
A self-taught jeweler, Schlumberger’s mastery of color as well as his expertise as a draftsman brought his fantastic ideas to life. Born to a leading textile manufacturing family in Alsace, France, Schlumberger took to drawing as a child and showed promise as an artist, but his parents instead sent him to study banking in Berlin in the 1930s. Uninspired, he departed for Paris and began creating buttons for Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who also commissioned him for costume jewelry.
One of Schlumberger’s early pieces — a cigarette lighter in the form of a fish whose head opened to reveal the flame — demonstrated his skill for capturing the vivacity of nature in precious metal. The designer’s imaginative jewelry was in contrast to popular geometric lines of Art Deco, an independent vision he affirmed in the extravagant 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch created for fashion editor Diana Vreeland. An extravagant confection of diamonds, amethyst, rubies and gold, the brooch featured gemstones adorning an intricate intersection of tiny spears and a breastplate over a glittering shield.
After serving in the French army and the Free French forces during World War II — and surviving the Battle of Dunkirk — Schlumberger left war-torn Europe for New York and in 1946 established a jewelry salon with Nicolas Bongard. There, his vibrant work caught the eye of Tiffany & Co. After joining the American luxury jewelry house in 1956, he soon had his own studio on the mezzanine of Tiffany’s Fifth Avenue store that he accessed by a private elevator. In his workshop, Schlumberger used a rainbow of gemstones, gold and diamonds to create some of the company’s most beguiling designs.
From striking earrings shaped like soaring wings to diamond birds perched on glittering gemstones, each of Schlumberger’s Tiffany designs dazzled. His supporters included Bunny Mellon, whose love for horticulture inspired commissions such as the Jasmine necklace with diamond blossoms flowering from a garland of colored sapphires, and Jacqueline Kennedy, who wore his Croisillon bracelets so often they became known as “Jackie bracelets.” Schlumberger retired from Tiffany in the late 1970s, but decades after his designs were introduced many of his popular pieces remain in production.
On 1stDibs, find an extraordinary range of vintage Jean Schlumberger jewelry designed for Tiffany & Co.
TIFFANY & CO Soleste Aquamarine Diamond Platinum Ring
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in New York, NY
This exquisite Tiffany & Co. ring from the sophisticated Soleste collection is crafted in platinum and set with an intensely colored blue aquamarine surrounded with two rows of brill...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Tiffany & Co Soleste Aquamarine & Diamond Cluster Cocktail Ring in Platinum
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Plantation, FL
An authentic Tiffany & Co. ring from the celebrated Soleste® collection, renowned for its radiant double-halo design that gathers and mirrors light from every angle. A pear-shaped aq...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
$7,800Sale Price|20% Off
TIFFANY & CO. Classic Cocktail Ring Platinum With 2.70 Ctw Aquamarine & Diamonds
By Tiffany & Co.
Located in Miami, FL
Classic cocktail ring designed by Tiffany & Co. Very beautiful and colorful cocktail ring, created in New York by the jewelry house of Tiffany & Co. back in the late 20th century. T...
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
$30,400Sale Price|20% Off
Magnificent 30 Carat Aquamarine & Diamond Platinum Cocktail Ring
Located in Chicago, IL
Magnificent 30 Carat Aquamarine & Diamond Platinum Cocktail Ring A magnificent statement cocktail ring handcrafted in platinum, showcasing an impressive approximately 30-carat emera...
Diamond, White Diamond, Aquamarine, Platinum
Art Deco 8.70ct Aquamarine & Diamond Cocktail Ring in 14K White Gold
Located in London, GB
- Art Deco aquamarine & diamond cocktail ring - 8.70ct geometric fancy-cut aquamarine 18.09x12.25x6.91mm - Rose-cut diamond step-down geometric shoulders, totalling approx 0.05ct (...
Aquamarine, 14k Gold, White Gold
1990s 7.75 Carat Aquamarine and 1.65 Carat Diamond Platinum Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning vintage 1990s 7.75 carat aquamarine and 1.65 carat diamond, platinum cocktail ring; part of our diverse gemstone jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive vintage aquamarine ring has been crafted in platinum. The pierced decorated, scrolling setting displays a central 7.75Ct oval mixed cut aquamarine, four claw set in relief to the center. The aquamarine is flanked on either side by a total of ten tapered baguette cut diamonds. A further fourteen individually four claw set modern brilliant round cut diamonds ornament the upper and lower borders of the design. The elevated groove and bead decorated ring shoulders integrate with the main setting and meld with the plain ring shank. The ring is hallmarked to the interior with the platinum fineness mark (Pt900). This vintage aquamarine cocktail ring...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Antique 1.97 Carat Aquamarine and Diamond Platinum Cocktail Ring
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive 1.97 carat aquamarine, 0.94 carat diamond and platinum cocktail ring; part of our diverse gemstone jewellery and estate jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive aquamarine ring has been crafted in platinum. The contemporary rectangular cut-cornered frame displays an impressive collet set 1.97ct baguette cut aquamarine. The feature aquamarine is encompassed with eighteen antique (circa 1920) Old European cut diamonds. The central feature stone is flanked to either side with two contemporary baguette cut diamonds, set in subtle relief within the aforementioned cut-cornered border. The tapering ring shoulders each display a further baguette cut diamond, in addition to three Old European cut diamonds, integrating with the main setting and blending seamlessly with the plain ring shank via a plain cuff design. This baguette cut aquamarine ring...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Mid Century 23.70 carat Santa Maria aquamarine diamond platinum cocktail ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This extraordinary Mid Century Santa Maria aquamarine and diamond cocktail ring is a spectacular 1950’s jewel, centered by an impressive emerald cut Santa Maria aquamarine weighing a...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Vintage 14.35 Carat Aquamarine and Diamond White Gold Cocktail Ring, circa 1950
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning, fine and impressive 14.35 carat aquamarine and 0.20 carat diamond, 18 karat white gold ring; part of our diverse vintage jewelry and estate jewelry collections. This stu...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Aquamarine Diamond Platinum Cocktail Ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A special ring hand-fabricated in platinum, featuring a 13.73 carat oval-shape aquamarine! It has a lovely sea-blue color with excellent brilliance and light return. It is accented b...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Platinum
Oscar Heyman Aquamarine Ring, 6.39 Carats
By Oscar Heyman
Located in New Orleans, LA
This ring showcases the legendary craftsmanship of Oscar Heyman, America's premier jewelry house. At the heart of the design is a 6.39-carat oval aquamarine, prized for its exception...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Blue Sapphire, Platinum
Paraiba Ring, 5.68 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
The spectacular 5.68-carat Paraiba tourmaline at the center of this ring glows with the perfect neon greenish-blue hue for which these gems are celebrated. Its elegant marquise cut e...
Paraiba, White Gold
Emerald-Cut Aquamarine Ring, 43.37 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
With the stunning blue hue of a clear tropical ocean, the incredible 43.37-carat emerald-cut aquamarine at the center of this ring is absolutely captivating. This specimen possesses ...
Aquamarine, Diamond, White Diamond, Platinum
Untreated Brazilian Paraiba Asymmetrical Ring, 1.38 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
A striking 1.38-carat Paraiba tourmaline displays stunning brilliance and color in this asymmetrical ring. The triangular-shaped, brilliant-cut Paraiba...
White Diamond, Pink Diamond, Tourmaline, Paraiba, Platinum
Untreated Teal Sapphire Ring, 4.03 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
Displaying a captivating teal blue hue, the 4.03-carat brilliant-cut sapphire at the center of this ring dazzles on the finger. Certified by Bellerophon Gemlab, the sapphire shows no...
Diamond, White Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
Brazilian Paraiba Ring, 3.37 Carats
Located in New Orleans, LA
A monumental marvel, this breathtaking ring features the elusive and rare Brazilian Paraiba. The exquisite 3.37-carat gemstone displays the glowing gree...
Pink Diamond, Tourmaline, Paraiba, 18k Gold, Rose Gold, White Gold
Dazzling pieces by the late designer were worn by some of the biggest names in Hollywood.
Someone wanted to “modernize” the Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. masterworks, but Mahnaz Collection came to their rescue. Here, the dealer explains precisely why they’re such an extraordinary find.
