One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.
The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)
Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.
But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.
Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.
Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mid-Century Diamond Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Created in 1944, this Van Cleef & Arpels Paris ring is composed of diamonds, 18K gold and platinum. The flared, bombé form centers a graduating line of old European-cut diamonds, wit...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris No-Heat Burma Sapphire Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Created in the late 1930s by Van Cleef & Arpels Paris, this Burma sapphire and diamond ring is mounted in platinum. The ring centers three vertically-set cushion-cut sapphires, weighing 1.96, 1.21, and 1.20 carats, flanked by two canted rows of calibré-cut sapphires mounted on either side of an domed step, and arched shoulders set with graduating round-cut diamonds. Densely set with royal blue Burma sapphires, and rich in artistic impact, this streamlined masterpiece by Van Cleef & Arpels is a statement of sculptural monumentality in miniature. Product Details: Item #: R-20587 Artist: Van Cleef & Arpels Country: France Circa: Late 1930s Size: (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information) Materials: 1 cushion-cut sapphire (approximate total weight 1.20 carats); 1 cushion-cut sapphire (approximate total weight 1.96 carats); 1 cushion-cut sapphire (with approximate total weight 1.21 carats); 10 round diamonds (approximate total weight 1.00 carats); platinum Signed: Van Cleef & Arpels Brevete. s.g.d.g. 48551 French assay marks and maker's mark Documentation: Accompanied by American Gemological Laboratories (AGL) reports nos. 1123997, 1123998, and 1123999, all dated 15 July 2022, stating that the three largest sapphires are of Burma (Myanmar) origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement. Literature: For important mid-century jewels with a similar sculptural character, see Van Cleef & Arpels, Reflections of Eternity, by Marc Petit...
Diamond, Sapphire, Platinum
French Retro 18K White Gold and Diamond Ring
Located in New York, NY
Created in France in the 1940s, in the Retro style, this diamond solitaire ring is mounted in 18K white gold. The central diamond, weighing 2.42 carats, L color, VS2 clarity, is flan...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Cartier Paris Diamond "Panthère Griffe" Ring
By Cartier
Located in New York, NY
A design dating from the 2000s, this Cartier "Panthère Griffe" ring is composed of 18K white gold and diamonds. It is designed as a bypass form of overlapping raised diamond pavé pan...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris Mother-of-Pearl Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Made in Paris in the 1970s, this Van Cleef & Arpels mother-of-pearl and diamond ring is set in 18K gold. The ring is designed as curving, intertwined bands of diamonds framing tw...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond, Chrysoprase and Coral Bombé Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Designed in the late 1980s, this diamond, chrysoprase, coral and onyx ring was made by Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris. The ring centers a field of pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds fl...
Chalcedony, Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold
Important Van Cleef & Arpels diamond and platinum bombé cocktail ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
An Important Mid-Century pavé diamond statement ring of domed design, featuring graduated round-brilliant-cut diamonds, in platinum. Van Cleef & Arpels, France. Atw diamonds 13.63 ct...
Diamond, Platinum
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Platinum Diamond Dôme Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A striking example of mid-century elegance, this VAN CLEEF & ARPELS diamond Dôme ring embodies the maison’s refined sense of volume and brilliance. Crafted in platinum, the ring feat...
Diamond, Platinum
Van Cleef & Arpels GIA Certified 1.86 Ct. Center Diamond Ring, Platinum
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A Van Cleef & Arpels GIA Certified 1.86 ct. Center Diamond Ring made in Platinum. The diamond is K color, VVS 2 clarity. The side diamonds total appx. 4 carats. The total weight is 7...
Diamond, Platinum
Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Ring with 4.2 carats of diamonds.
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Braintree, GB
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Platinum Ring with 4.2 carats of diamonds. This platinum ring, crafted by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1950s, features a floral motif with round brilliant-cu...
Diamond, Platinum
Van Cleef & Arpels White Gold Diamond Frivole Between The Finger Ring VCARB67500
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Mayfair, London, London
A stunning 18k white gold diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels from the Frivole collection. The ring comprises of 2 diamond set floral motifs varying in size. The 130 round brilliant c...
Diamond, 18k Gold, White Gold
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and 18 Karat White Gold Frivole Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Zurich, CH
Adorable 18 karat white gold and diamond "Frivole" ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. Modern ring crafted in 18 karat white gold, the front designed as two sculpted flower motifs in differ...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold
