Skip to main content
Want more images or videos?
Request additional images or videos from the seller
1 of 13

Hemmerle 2.57ct Sapphire and 1.8ct Ruby Signet Ring, Munich Germany, 1980s

$17,131.26
£12,657
€14,500VAT Included
CA$23,833.87
A$23,906.31
CHF 13,867.02
MX$291,822.46
NOK 160,619.28
SEK 164,383.01
DKK 110,554.88

About the Item

Color, proportion, construction. Hemmerle rarely needs much else. At the center sits an oval cut sapphire of approximately 2.57 carats, a deep, intense dark blue framed by twelve rectangular cut rubies totaling approximately 1.80 carats. The rubies are channel-set in an uninterrupted line around the band, creating a remarkable ribbon of saturated pinkish red beneath the sapphire. Blue against red, yellow gold against platinum, the contrasts are bold, but the execution is exceptionally controlled. The construction is particularly sophisticated. The sapphire is held by sweeping yellow-gold half-bezels that seem to grow directly from the band, while an outer border of platinum traces its edges. The two-tone architecture gives definition to the ring without relying on diamonds, allowing color and form to do all the work. Seen from the side, the precision becomes even clearer: gemstone, gold, platinum, and geometry are integrated into one continuous sculptural object. Made circa 1980, the ring already contains many of the principles that would establish Hemmerle as one of the most important independent jewelers of modern times. There is an almost architectural economy to the design, nothing ornamental for ornament's sake. Exceptional stones are treated as materials within the composition rather than simply placed on top of it. Founded in Munich in 1893 by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle, the house began by creating medals and jewels for the Bavarian court. Still family owned today, Hemmerle has developed an international reputation for extraordinary craftsmanship, important gemstones, unconventional combinations of materials, and technically ambitious construction. Its jewels are made in very limited numbers, often requiring hundreds of hours of work, and are now represented in major museum collections as well as some of the world's most significant private jewelry collections. This ring makes the later Hemmerle vocabulary easy to understand. The quality is exceptional, but so is the restraint. No pavé, no unnecessary embellishment. Just sapphire, ruby, platinum, gold, and very good design. Maker: Hemmerle, Munich Period: Circa 1980 Materials: 900 platinum and 750 / 18 karat yellow gold Sapphire: One oval-cut sapphire, approximately 2.57 carats Rubies: Twelve rectangular-cut rubies, approximately 1.80 carats total Ring size: EU 49 / US 5 / UK J½ Internal diameter: approximately 0.61 in / 1.56 cm Gross weight: approximately 13.5 g Marks: Signed GH for Gebrüder HEMMERLE (the brothers Hemmerle); stamped 900 and 750 Condition: Very good overall. The rubies show minor surface wear, with minimal chips and rubbing to the two lower stones, barely visible to the unaided eye. Exceptional stones, exceptional making, and a color combination that could only become cooler with time.
  • Creator:
  • Ring Size:
    5 US, Not Resizable
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    2.57 ct
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1980s
  • Condition:
    Wear consistent with age and use. Condition: Very good overall. The rubies show minor surface wear, with minimal chips and rubbing to the two lower stones, barely visible to the unaided eye.
  • Seller Location:
    Malmö, SE
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU3148230341422

More From This Seller

View All
1980s ‘Toi et Moi’ Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond 18kt Gold Ring.

1980s ‘Toi et Moi’ Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond 18kt Gold Ring.

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

Set with a 0.7ct cabochon Ruby, a 0.8ct cabochon Sapphire and both shouldered with 40 brilliant cut diamonds in total 0,8ct. Ring size us 7, 54, O, 17.25. French owl mark for import...

Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold

Victorian 18K Gold Enamel Diamond Ring, Circa 1860s, 0.60ct

Victorian 18K Gold Enamel Diamond Ring, Circa 1860s, 0.60ct

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

19th century english old cut diamonds and enamel ring. 18K gold. Made in England approx 1860s. Diamonds approx 0.60 carats in total. Size 17.5. / O 1/2 Weight c. 5.5 g

Category

Antique Mid-19th Century English Engagement Rings

Materials

Diamond, Enamel

Hemmerle 2.27ct Emerald and Sapphire Cocktail Ring, 18kt Gold, Germany

Hemmerle 2.27ct Emerald and Sapphire Cocktail Ring, 18kt Gold, Germany

By Hemmerle

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

Hemmerle Emerald and Sapphire Ring, ca 1980 Hard to find the right words that convey the color and beauty of this Hemmerle emerald ring. Some pieces are just meant to be seen live t...

Category

Vintage 1980s German Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Sapphire, Emerald, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold

Vintage 1.90ct Ruby and 2.95ct Diamond Bombé Ring, CF Carlman, 1971

Vintage 1.90ct Ruby and 2.95ct Diamond Bombé Ring, CF Carlman, 1971

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

1.90ct Ruby and 2.95ct Diamond Bombé Ring by CF Carlman, Stockholm, 1971 Bold, colorful, and oversized — meant to draw attention! The coolness of the colorless diamonds is heighten...

Category

Vintage 1970s Swedish Retro Cocktail Rings

Materials

Ruby, Diamond, White Gold, 18k Gold

1980s ‘Toi-et-Moi’ Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond Gold Ring.

1980s ‘Toi-et-Moi’ Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond Gold Ring.

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

Featuring a cabochon-cut sapphire approx. 1.80 ct and an emerald of approx. 1.10 ct, set with twenty-four modern brilliant-cut diamonds approx. 0.25ct in total. Ring size us 6, L½, ...

Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bulgari 1980s Doppio Gold Ring, 1.7ct Blue Topaz & 1.13ct Iolite, Italy

Bulgari 1980s Doppio Gold Ring, 1.7ct Blue Topaz & 1.13ct Iolite, Italy

By Bulgari

Located in Malmö, Skåne län

A gem-set doppio ring by Bvlgari. Signature piece of design, created in Rome Italy by the acclaimed jewelry house of Bulgari. This popular ring is part of the iconic doppio collecti...

Category

Vintage 1980s Italian Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Iolite, Topaz, Blue Topaz, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

You May Also Like

2.50ct Burmese Ruby Single-Stone Ring

2.50ct Burmese Ruby Single-Stone Ring

Located in London, GB

Here we have a breathtaking single stone ring. This timeless piece has been crafted from a rich 22ct yellow gold and features an impressive 2.50 carat oval faceted ruby of Burmese or...

Category

21st Century and Contemporary Solitaire Rings

Materials

Ruby, 22k Gold, Yellow Gold

Bvlgari 18K Gold Ruby Sapphire Diamond Ring, Mid-20th Century

Bvlgari 18K Gold Ruby Sapphire Diamond Ring, Mid-20th Century

By Bulgari

Located in New York, NY

This Bvlgari ruby and sapphire ring reflects the house’s bold mid-20th-century aesthetic, celebrating vibrant color contrasts and architectural volume. A richly saturated ruby is fla...

Category

Mid-20th Century Retro Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Diamond, Sapphire and Ruby 18kt Yellow Gold Swiss Vintage Ring

Diamond, Sapphire and Ruby 18kt Yellow Gold Swiss Vintage Ring

Located in Esch sur Alzette, Esch-sur-Alzette

The Diamond, Sapphire, and Ruby 18kt Yellow Gold Swiss Vintage Ring is a stunning piece of jewelry that combines precious gemstones with a classic yellow gold setting. The ring fea...

Category

20th Century Swiss Artisan Band Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 1.30ct Sapphire and Diamond Three Stone Ring, c.1950s

Vintage 1.30ct Sapphire and Diamond Three Stone Ring, c.1950s

Located in London, GB

This elegant 1950s three stone ring features a captivating natural sapphire at its centre. The vibrant blue sapphire is a 1.30 carat, oval cut stone and is flanked by a pair of roun...

Category

Vintage 1950s Unknown Three-Stone Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum

20th Century 18k Gold Sapphire and Ruby Bypass Ring

20th Century 18k Gold Sapphire and Ruby Bypass Ring

Located in Ocala, FL

A striking ruby and sapphire bypass ring crafted in 18-karat gold, featuring a bold two-stone composition with vibrant contrasting color. An oval cabochon ruby and sapphire form the ...

Category

Late 20th Century Modern Fashion Rings

Materials

Ruby, Sapphire, 18k Gold

Vintage French Sapphire Single Stone Ring

Vintage French Sapphire Single Stone Ring

Located in London, GB

Here we have a fabulous single stone ring featuring a captivating deep blue sapphire as the centrepiece. This oval-cut sapphire is set in a robust de...

Category

Vintage 1950s Fashion Rings

Materials

Sapphire, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Platinum