Baume & Mercier 18k Yellow Gold Hidden Dial Coin Watch

The name Baume & Mercier has been synonymous with quality watches for nearly two centuries. Studious vintage watch collectors might know the legendary Swiss watchmaker for a range of reasons — it created distinctive models for women as they struggled for equal rights during the heyday of the Art Deco era, its shaped watches during the 1970s would certainly impress today’s enthusiasts of tonneaus and the like, and its Riviera emerged when donning a sports watch made of steel was little more than a fantasy.

Louis-Victor Baume and his brother Célestin laid the foundation for Baume & Mercier in a small watch dealership in Les Bois, Switzerland. The pair expanded to London, England, where they established the Baume Brothers in 1851. For the last half of the 19th century, Baume Brothers wristwatches won timekeeping competitions and set accuracy records around the world.

Their chronographs and grand complication models earned them ten Grand Prix awards and seven gold medals at various international exhibitions. Revered for their superior accuracy, Baume won a competition hosted by the Kew Observatory with a tourbillon mechanism which went unchallenged for a full decade.

Baume & Mercier, Genève was established once Paul Mercier joined William Baume, then director of Baume Brothers, in 1918. Unafraid to challenge the status quo, Baume & Mercier began introducing unconventional shapes while upholding their values — an endeavor that garnered the brand the highest international distinction at the time, the Poinçon de Genève.

During the 1920s, when women wore watches of all kinds, from wristwatches to long-chained pendant watches to lapel watches, Baume & Mercier positioned themselves at the forefront of innovation and cultural relevance. The Marquise, an incredibly successful model, marked the start of a modern ladies’ watch line that demonstrated the luxury brand’s recognition of the growing social movement at the time. Women were fighting for rights and earning power as consumers and so demanded more than the simpler imitations of men’s designs available in the past. Baume delivered.

Piaget purchased Baume & Mercier in 1964, and the Galaxie and Stardust models followed the acquisition, furthering Baume’s reputation during the 1970s for marrying elevated, shapely designs with the newest innovations — winning them the Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Baume & Mercier are now part of Richemont. 

 Find vintage Baume & Mercier watches, bracelets and other jewelry on 1stDibs.