Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.
Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.
Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.
Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator.
In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy.
While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director.
It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.
In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré clothing, accessories and handbags and purses.
Printed parka with sherling collar and edge GF FERRE
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Printed parka with sherling collar and edge. Outside fabric composition: 100% polyester. Lam sherling details. Lining composition: 70% rayon, 30% polyester. Zip closure on the middl...
Gianfranco Ferre Alpaca Plush Swing Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in New York, NY
Dramatic Gianfranco Ferre Swing Coat in inky black Alpaca from the 1980's. Raised tucked collar which falls into folds down front of closureless robe coat. Large shoulder pads with f...
Gianfranco Ferre Soft Wool + Alpaca Avant Garde Coat with Cape Detail
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Sparks, NV
Unbelievably soft gray wool and alpaca blend coat with a cape detail by Gianfranco Ferre. Partially lined. 85% pure virgin wool 15% alpaca. Made in Italy. Marked size 44. Estimated s...
Gianfranco Ferre New Pink Leather Jacket with Grommets
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Water Mill, NY
A fabulous shell pink leather crop jacket by Gianfranco Ferre. It has a bateau neckline, long sleeves, and is covered in rows of silver gradating grommets smaller in size at the top...
Cappotto Gianfranco Ferré rosso in lana con collo in pelliccia – Anni '80
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
Elegante cappotto vintage firmato Gianfranco Ferré, realizzato in Italia, espressione dell’estetica strutturata e raffinata che ha reso iconico lo stilista negli anni Ottanta. Il mod...
Gianfranco Ferre Vintage Leather Trench Coat Lined in Sheared Fur Size L (NWT)
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Palm Desert, CA
This coat designed by Mr. Ferre for the Gianfranco Ferre FORMA lable has been in a celebrity closet and never worn. Purchased at the Ferre boutique in...
Gianfranco Ferré Rabbit and Fox Fur Coat - '90s
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Indulge in luxury with this vintage Gianfranco Ferré Rabbit and Fox Fur Coat from the 90s. The duo-toned stripe effect of the fur creates a striking look, while fox fur trim adds a t...
Double breasted coat with check pattern Gianfranco Ferré Studio
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Double breasted coat with check pattern. Main fabric composition: 85% wool, 10% mohair, 5% nylon. Lining composition: 60% rayon, 40% acetate. Pocket on both side. Shoulder pad. Bu...
Ferre Green Shearling Coat IT42
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Krakow, PL
Material: 100% natural fur Color: Green Closure: Double-breasted with buttons Decor: Embossing, silver hardware Length (back): 94 cm / 37 in Shoulder width: 42 cm / 16.5 in Bust: ...
Gianfranco Ferré Overcoat with Fur Inserts - '90s
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Vintage Gianfranco Ferré wool overcoat with luxe fur trim and collar. With longline silhouette and tailored for chic winter elegance. Remarks: There is no size and composition tag. ...
1990s Gianfranco FerreNavy Blue Iridescent Trench Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Toronto, Ontario
1990s Gianfranco Ferre iridescent navy blue trench coat with black oversized black fox fur cuffs. Double breasted with a notched collar and wide lapels a...
Gianfranco Ferre Gray Faux Fur Coat High Collar Sz L
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Krakow, PL
Gianfranco Ferre Straight-Fit Faux Fur Coat with High Collar Sz.L Condition: Very good, minimal signs of use such as slight snags on the fabric and minor wear on the collar Closur...
Gianfranco Ferre Black Metallic Trench Gown With Belt & Crystal Hardware
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Gianfranco Ferre black metallic trench coat dress featuring an exposed neckline, trench coat collar, rhinestone buckles at the cuff...
2000s Gianfranco Ferre Navy and Brown Polka Dot Spring Weight Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Gianfranco Ferre navy blue and brown oval polka dot oversize coat. Swing style with two buttons at neck and the bottom lays open. Cotton. Beautiful draping. Perfect for spring and ea...
GIANFRANCO FERRE, Red, Wool and Alpaca, Cocoon Coat, 1978
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Kingston, NY
Gianfranco Ferre, Circa 1978 Oversized, Red, Cocoon Coat 70% Wool, 30% Alpaca Interior Purple Design Lining Hidden Side Pockets Architectural and Minimalist Design NWT Made in Italy ...
Gianfranco Ferré Beaded Herringbone Coat - '80s
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Sparkling coat designed by Gianfranco Ferré in the 80's with full coverage hand embroidery on wool tweed fabric and gray and black herringbone yarns. Embellished with gray, white and...
Gianfranco Ferré coat Summer 1988
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ - (Made in Italy) Black leather mid-length coat, short sleeves with white cotton lapels, horsehair slip underneath. No size indicated, it fits a 36FR/38FR/40FR. 1988...
$2,400Sale Price|20% Off
Gianfranco Ferre Black Wool Long Coat Jacket w/ Belt Size 44
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Gianfranco Ferre Black Wool Long Coat Jacket w/ Belt Size 44 Product details: Size 44 Featuring large collar detail, measure 4" high One gold and silver...
Gianfranco Ferre Citron Yellow Boucle Belted Coat 2004
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Gianfranco Ferre citron-yellow wool boucle coat featuring an off-center closure, belted waist & cuffs, slit pockets, and expose...
$676Sale Price|32% Off
Gianfranco Ferre Black Silver Fox Fur Leather Vest
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Amsterdam, NL
This GF vintage vest is made from soft silver fox with matching black leather side panels. We offer more exclusive fur items, view our frontstore Details: with 3 closing hooks Gia...
$3,765
Beaded Herringbone Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Sparkling coat designed by Gianfranco Ferré in the 80's with full coverage hand embroidery on wool tweed fabric and gray and black herringbone yarns. Embellished with gray, white and...
Gianfranco Ferré Long Coat - '00s
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Milano, Lombardia
Expertly crafted from luxurious virgin wool, this Gianfranco Ferré coat exudes classic elegance. Designed with a single breasted closure and ragl...
Brand new Vintage Gianfranco Ferre mix lamb mink Fur (16/L) ~no duties
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Montreal, Quebec
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION: Brand new Vintage Gianfranco Ferre Fur Coat with Lamb andMink Fur Trim (16/L) Condition: Brand New Closure: German hook Color: Multi c...
Vintage Romeo Gigli 1990s Size 44 Grey Black Rhinestone 90s Blazer Jacket
By Romeo Gigli
Located in San Diego, CA
Stylish vintage early 90s ROMEO GIGLI gray and black pinstriped minimalist le smoking blazer jacket! Impeccably tailored, and a fantastic fit! Feature...
1990s Krizia Vintage Size 8 / 10 Light Blue Jean Denim Glitter Moto Biker Jacket
By Krizia Jeans, Krizia
Located in San Diego, CA
Amazingly chic vintage early 90s KRIZIA blue jean 'glitter' moto jacket! Features a light blue sandblasted denim, with an allover glitter coating (hard to see in photos, but amazing ...
1992 AZZEDINE ALAIA black chenille runway robe coat
By Azzedine Alaïa
Located in San Fransisco, CA
Azzedine Alaïa black chenille robe coat, runway 1992 An exceptionally rare piece from Alaïa’s 1992 collection, this coat is made from a rich, jet-black chenille with a soft, almost ...
$1,292
Size: 44 IT / 40 D / 12 GB / 10 USA
A/W 1988-89 Moschino Cheap & Chic Off-White Laurel Design Padded Jacket
By Moschino Cheap and Chic, Moschino
Located in Munich, DE
Early Moschino pieces designed by Franco Moschino himself – often referred to as Italian fashion's "enfant terrible" – within the short period when he launched the House of Moschino ...
Diane Von Furstenberg Shearling Coat
By Diane Von Furstemberg
Located in London, GB
Diane Von Furstenberg Shearling Coat Burnt orange faux shearling with black, contrasting panelling. Designed with wide lapels, belted waist and A-line silhouette. Rrp Approx. £900 ...
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Red Label S/S 1999 Tweed Wool Tailored Princess Coat Jacket
By Vivienne Westwood
Located in Thiensville, WI
DESCRIPTION: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Red Label S/S 1999 Tweed Wool Tailored Princess Coat Jacket Circa: Spring / Summer 1999 Label(s): Vivienne Westwood Red Label Style: Tailored prince...
UNWORN Chanel Tweed & Sequins CC Logo Button Short Coat Jacket Blazer 42
By Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Chanel
Located in Switzerland, CH
Beautiful CHANEL tweed coat jacket A true CHANEL signature item that will last you for many years Stunning colors A truly versatile piece, can be worn as blazer, jacket or short coa...
1920's Sequined Flapper Capelet
Located in Geneva, CH
Rare and hard-to-find garment, this fantastic mid 20’s Art-Deco evening cape will go with just about everything ! Made of black tulle and thousands of hand-sewn sparkling silver sequ...
ALEXANDER McQUEEN A/W 1999 “The Overlook” Gray Check Fringe Jacket Skirt Set
By Alexander McQueen
Located in Thiensville, WI
ALEXANDER McQUEEN A/W 1999 “The Overlook” Gray Check Fringe Jacket Skirt Set Brand / Manufacturer: Alexander McQueen Collection: A/W 1999 “The Overlook” Designer: Alexander McQueen ...
Giorgio Armani 1990s 90s Vintage Khaki / Light Green Herringbone Blazer Jacket
By Giorgio Armani
Located in San Diego, CA
Beautifully tailored vintage Giorgio Armani blazer! This fitted blazer is a khaki/ on the verge of light green, with herringbone print throughout. Two p...
Unworn Fabrice Vintage Sequin + Beaded Flapper Kimono Jacket or Duster
By Fabrice, Fabrice Silhouette
Located in Sparks, NV
Unworn with the original store tags still attached! Vintage sequin and beaded Flapper-inspired jacket with a scalloped edge. Details: Unlined Shoulder Pads Can Easily Be Remov...
Jean Patou "Collection" plaid coat
By Jean Patou
Located in New York, NY
This very rare Jean Patou Neon-Orange and beige plaid wool coat has Mother-of-Pearls buttons detail. The lining is all hand-stitched with red silk and not machine stitch. There are t...
Gianfranco Ferre Animal Print Fur Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Iconic is an understatement to describe this Gianfranco animal print fur coat.Light up any room with this luxurious fur while pairing it with a simple gown or something more expressi...
Gianfranco Ferré Giaccone Vintage in Tessuto Jacquard Nero con Inserti in Pelle
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
Un capo raro e sofisticato firmato Gianfranco Ferré, simbolo dell’eleganza architettonica e del design deciso che hanno reso celebre lo stilista italiano. Questo giaccone vintage in ...
Gianfranco Ferré coat Winter 1993
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ - (Made in Italy) Black wool and alpaca coat decorated with a embroidered golden lurex pattern and black lamb leather belt and edges. Size 40FR indicated, it fits a ...
Gianfranco Ferre Vintage 1980s 100% Leather Scheerling Oversized Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Antwerpen, Vlaams Gewest
This is quite an intriguing piece by Gianfranco Ferré, often celebrated as the "Architect of Italian Fashion." Crafted from 100% natural shearling leather, this oversized coat is a t...
Gianfranco Ferré Coat with Pattern, Pearls and Sequins
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Gianfranco Ferré - (Made in Italy) Black coat embroidered with a pattern, pearls, and sequins. No size indicated, it fits a 38FR/40FR. Additional information: Condition: Very good c...
Gianfranco Ferré Mid-length Fur Coat
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in SAINT-OUEN-SUR-SEINE, FR
Gianfranco Ferré - (Made in Italy) Mid-length fur coat with a leather belt. No size indicated, it fits a 38FR/40FR. Additional information: Condition: Very good condition Dimensions...
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Hong Kong, NT
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M Reference: GIYG/A00015 Brand: Gianfranco Ferre Designer: Gianfranco Ferre Model: Double breasted coat Mate...
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Hong Kong, NT
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M Reference: GIYG/A00015 Brand: Gianfranco Ferre Designer: Gianfranco Ferre Model: Double breasted coat Mate...
Cappotto Gianfranco Ferre’ in cachemire pari al nuovo
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
In caldo e morbido cachemire cappotto Gianfranco Ferrè color vinaccio con chiusura doppiopetto e cintura in vita. la cintura è inserita all'interno e rimane invisibile nella parte p...
Trench in pelle a pois Gianfranco Ferre’ anni '80
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
Trench Gianfranco Ferrè in pelle nera a pois con cintura in vita tasche laterali e pattina. L'articolo fa parte della collezione che ha sfilato nelle passerelle degli anni '80, un pe...
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Hong Kong, NT
GIANFRANCO FERRE STUDIO ivory wool crepe double breasted coat jacket IT42 M Reference: GIYG/A00015 Brand: Gianfranco Ferre Designer: Gianfranco Ferre Mode...
Cappotto anni 80 Gianfranco Ferre’ pari al nuovo
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Basaluzzo, IT
Cappotto anni 80 Gianfranco Ferre' rosso in lana Vestibilità over con spalline, tasche frontali e chiusura sui polsi. Morbido e caldo questo cappotto di alta moda si adatta a taglie ...