Remembered fondly with a nod to his architecture education as the “Frank Lloyd Wright of Italian Fashion” and the “Architect of Fashion,” Milanese designer Gianfranco Ferré spent a lifetime creating handbags, dresses, jackets and other garments and accessories that were defined by meticulous tailoring and crisp geometry. Designing the iconic Lady Dior handbag after being named artistic director at Dior during the late 1980s is only one of Ferré’s impressive achievements in the fashion industry.
Ferré was born in Legnano and was raised by his mother and two aunts. He studied architecture at Milan Polytechnic but had a love for fashion, and made belts and other items for female friends in his classes. He graduated in 1969.
Ferré’s accessories caught the eye of Rosy Biffi, who operated boutiques in Milan with her sister, Adele. He was encouraged by Biffi to create clothing, and soon began creating jewelry and accessories for Christiane Bailly and Walter Albini. The latter is an unsung hero of 20th-century fashion, while Bailly was part of a small group of prominent young stylistes who helped build a sterling reputation for French ready-to-wear fashion during the 1960s. Ferré’s work was photographed by Italian Vogue, and he secured commissions from the likes of Karl Lagerfeld and Elio Fiorucci.
Ferré appreciated other cultures and drew inspiration from his travels abroad. His most influential trip — a years-long stint in India — saw him bringing bright colors and patterns to his evening dresses and day dresses. While there he created a collection for the Genoa-based San Giorgio Impermeabili. Ferrè designed for brands such as Les Grenouilles and Baila, and met with Italian businessman and clothing manufacturer Franco Mattioli, who would become an important collaborator.
In 1978, Ferré and Mattioli became equal business partners in establishing Ferré’s own label, for which he designed women’s ready-to-wear and menswear collections in Milan. In 1983, he was named the first professor of fashion at the Domus Academy.
While teaching, Ferré won the Occhio d’Oro — Italy’s award for best fashion designer — six times. In 1986, he introduced his first women’s fragrance, his first couture and fur collections, and a new line called Studio 00l. A few years later, Bernard Arnault, owner of Christian Dior, appointed him artistic director.
It was unexpected for an Italian to be given the job at Dior — one of fashion’s most coveted roles — as that position traditionally went to French designers. There, as Marc Bohan’s successor, Ferré created luxurious and striking gowns that drew on his architecture studies in their sculptural forms while celebrating the long history of the legendary house. He revisited the nipped-waist silhouettes of Dior’s postwar years, and his work dazzled onlookers and exuded femininity. Ferré won the Dé d'Or prize in 1989 for his first collection at the label.
In the early 1990s, Ferré designed the Lady Dior handbag (prior to its 1995 debut, it was called the Chouchou). The boxy top-handled accessory soared to immense popularity after French first lady Bernadette Chirac gave a version in black leather to Diana, Princess of Wales. Each bag, which was eventually named for the Princess, is made from 130 pieces of leather and worked on by seven Dior craftsmen who spend at least eight hours perfecting it.
On 1stDibs, find a collection of vintage Gianfranco Ferré clothing, accessories and handbags and purses.
Gianfranco Ferre Vintage Black Wool Silk Avant Garde Cut Out Tunic Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Sparks, NV
Black wool and silk avant garde tunic dress by Gianfranco Ferre. Unique avant garde shape with an asymmetric neckline and "slash" detail on the front and back shoulder. Details: ...
Brown sleeveless cocktail dress with gold painting and beadwork Gianfranco Ferré
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Brown sleeveless cocktail dress with gold painting and beadwork. Fabric composition: 85% rayon, 15% lycra. SIZE 36/38 S/M
Vintage Gianfranco Ferre 90s Size 46 / 10 Black Jersey Racerback Midi Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy late 1990s GIANFRANCO FERRE black jersey racerback midi dress ! Features. A draped high neck with a tailored bodice. The back reveals just the right amount of skin. Hidden zipper up the back of the skirt with hook-and-eye closure. The perfect black dress...
Gianfranco Ferre Black Silk Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Sharon, CT
Black silk with bottons down the front and an elastic waist band. Waist band has 8 hooks in front. There are two deep pockets in the front of the skirt. Padded shoulders and the sk...
90s Gianfranco Ferre White Silk V Neck Sleeveless Gown
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
90s Gianfranco Ferre White Silk sleeveless gown with v neck satin lapel. Size: 40italy, fit size 6 US Perfect for wedding or rehearsal dinner. Measurement flat: Bust : 36”/ empire wa...
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ suit jacket and dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Rubiera, RE
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ suit jacket and dress Important cocktail suit in black and white fish thorn wool fabric with chantilly gray lace inlays embroi...
1999 Gianfranco Ferre Runway Sheer hot pink Silk Gown
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Gianfranco Ferre Spring 1999 runway gown Fushcia silk floral applique gown. This gown is made of silk applique on sheer net fabric. Long sleeve and zip on the side. Museum Quality an...
$375Sale Price|44% Off
Gianfranco Ferre
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in University City, MO
Gianfranco Ferre Elegant champagne silk sheath dress Made in Italy Size 46 The stylish dress is designed with luminous champagne color silk The dress ...
Ferragamo Black Cotton Dress with High Side Opening
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in New Hope, PA
This black cotton dress from Ferragamo has a notched collar, left side breast pocket, short sleeves and a faux wrap style. There is a left side zipper, a full skirt with two hip poc...
90s Gianfranco Ferre tan knit dress with silk collar
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Deadstock Gianfranco Ferre knit dress with silk collar. Size: 2/ XS Bust: 32" Hip: 34" Flaws: black stains (front collar) you can easily reverse the collar (in and out) to hi...
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Size 44 / 8 Brown Drop Waist Grommet Turtleneck 90s Gown
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in San Diego, CA
Chic 1990s vintage GIANFRANCO FERRE chocolate brown silver grommet encrusted rayon elastane turtleneck evening dress ! Features logo embossed grommets at drop waist. Hidden zipper up...
90s Ferre navy blue knit dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Sexy and sporty 90s Gianfranco Ferre navy blue knit dress with racer back. Bust: 32"/ W: 26" / 34" ( fabric strecth) Best fit US size 2 and 4.
Vintage Gianfranco Ferre Black Velour Sheer Long Sleeve Mini Sweater 80s dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
1980s Gianfranco Ferre Black Velour Sheer Long Sleeve mini knit sweater dress or Top. Size: Medium Bust : 36 stretch up to 40" Waist 32 - 40 / Hip 34 inch - 40 inch / Length: ...
Silk ivory shirt dress Gianfranco Ferré
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Silk ivory shirt dress with button and buttonhole closure on the middle front and snap closure on the cuffs. Bow tie SIZE 40 / L
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Black Knit Jersey Cocktail Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Sexy Vintage 1990s Gianfranco Ferre Black Viscose long sleeve dress. Plunging Cowl neckline with black buggle beads waist band. Dress can be worn off shou...
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Black and White Fishnet Beaded Bodycon 90s Vintage Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in San Diego, CA
Sexy 1990s GIANFRANCO FERRE black and white fishnet mini dress! Black cotton jersey with white fishnet. Red hand-sewn seed beads at side waist subtly spell out the GFF logo. Classic ...
90s Gianfranco Ferre Light Brown Strapless Mini cocktail Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage Gianfranco Ferre Light Brown Knit mini strapless dress with leather trimming. Dress has built in bra. Perfect for cocktail party. Size : Small Bust : 32” / Waist : 28” / ...
Gianfranco Ferré Vintage 1990s Dark Green Velvet Evening Gown, Size 2
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
STUNNING Gianfranco Ferre dark forest green velvet Long evening gown with unique black matte silk rolled collar neckline. Small light shoulder pads, bac...
1990s Gianfranco Ferre Black Turtleneck Dress with Button Detail
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Gianfranco Ferre wool crepe LBD from the 1990s. Shift style with long sleeves and a knitted ribbed wool turtleneck. Large round black buttons dow...
1990s Gianfranco Ferré Sheer Knit Navy Blue White Trim Backless Bodycon Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
From the 1990s, this gorgeous navy blue Gianfranco Ferré slip dress is the perfect classic bombshell dress. This chic, form-fitting dress features a princess neckline, spaghetti stra...
2000s Gianfranco Ferré Stretch Ribbed Knit Bodycon Flare Black Maxi Dress 40IT
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a striking black knit Gianfranco Ferre midi dress from the 2000s. This form-fitting ribbed mini dress boasts thin shoulder straps, a halterneck strap, and a tiered ruffle ...
Vintage Gianfranco Ferre Tan Leather and Wool Knit Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
90s Gianfranco Ferre Tan leather and wool knit long sleeve dress. zipper at the back. Dress in excellent condition except for tiny smudge in suede lining ( see picture attached) Fit ...
$980Sale Price|30% Off
1990s Gianfranco Black Knit Illusion Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage 1990s Gianfranco Ferre black knit dress with sheer sleeve. Size 6 / Medium All Sales is final
Gianfranco Ferrè Green Velvet Strapless Cocktail Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
90s Gianfranco Ferre Green Velvet cocktail dress with black silk origami bow. Built in bustier bra. Size Small Measurement: Bust : 30” / Wa...
$1,677Sale Price|40% Off
S/S 1995 Gianfranco Ferré Rhinestone Gold Corset Boned Leather Mini Dress 42IT
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
This fabulous Gianfranco Ferre leather mini dress is constructed entirely of black leather and features gold-tone accents on either side. This...
1990s Gianfranco Ferré White Sheer Stripe Bodycon Midi Dress 40IT
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting a fabulous white Gianfranco Ferre mini dress. From the 1990s, this form-fitting dress features a scoop neckline and petal-style sleeves. The dress is amped up with sheer s...
$4,871Sale Price|25% Off
F/W 2004 Gianfranco Ferré Sculptural Croc Black Lace Runway Dress 46FR
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
Presenting an incredible black lace Gianfranco Ferre dress. From the Fall/Winter 2004 collection, this dress debuted on the season's runway modeled by Alek...
1980s Gianfranco Ferre Navy Suede Wrap Skirt
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This 1980’s Gianfranco Ferre navy suede wrap skirt is simple but sexy! Ferre’s workmanship is second to none, you really feel the quality in the cut and...
90s Gianfranco Ferre Sheer Metallic Grey Cocktail Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
90s Gianfranco Ferre Sheer metallic grey long sleeve fitted cocktail dress. Size: 4/6 see measurement: Bust: 36” / Waist: 30”/ Hip : 38”/ Should...
Gianfranco Ferré Vintage Coral Silk Cocktail Dress, Size M-L
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
2000s Gianfranco Ferre Coral cocktail dress with large rosette. Size : Medium- Large Bust: 42”/ Waist: 39”/ Hip” 39”/ Dress length: 36”
Gianfranco Ferre Brown Jersey Dress With Leather Cuffs
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Gianfranco Ferre brown jersey dress featuring decorative gold buttons, large leather cuffs with fringe, front placket, and folding ...
Gianfranco Ferre Black and White Contrast Dress with Suspender detail Size 40
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
This Gianfranco Ferre dress features a side zipper. The black and white back is complimented by a embossed leather suspender detail. Made in Ita...
Gianfranco Ferre Grey & White Zebra Stripe Maxi Runway Dress 1999
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection is pleased to offer this vintage Gianfranco Ferre grey and white embroidered zebra stripe maxi dress featuring an asymmetrical neckline, three-quarter length sleeves, an...
Gianfranco Ferre Navy & Gold Chiffon Caftan Shirt Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Los Angeles, CA
Resurrection Vintage is excited to offer a vintage Gianfranco Ferre multicolor chiffon caftan shirt dress featuring decorative print, slit cuffs, button front placket, and folding co...
S/S 1996 Gianfranco Ferré Grey Charcoal Pinstripe Off-Shoulder Dress 40IT
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
This Gianfranco Ferré dress from the Spring/Summer 1996 collection is crafted in grey charcoal silk with a fine pinstripe pattern. The design features an angular sweetheart neckline ...
1990s Gianfranco Ferre White, Black and Gold Asymmetric Silk Printed Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Toronto, Ontario
Over the top 1990s Gianfranco Ferre shirt dress. White silk with an all over print featuring black, red and gold lipsticks, watches, pens, lighters and pea...
1990s Gianfranco Ferré Black Cutout Transparent Paillette Bodycon Mini Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in West Hollywood, CA
This black metallic mini dress from Gianfranco Ferré’s Fall/Winter 1991 collection is a striking example of the designer’s glamorous early-1990s aesthetic. The slip-style design feat...
$320Sale Price|20% Off
rare GIANFRANCO FERRE Vintage navy white suspender panelled dress IT40 S
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Hong Kong, NT
rare GIANFRANCO FERRE Vintage navy white suspender panelled dress IT40 S Reference: TGAS/E00221 Brand: Gianfranco Ferre Material: Fabric Color: Navy, White Pattern: Solid Closure: Zi...
Printed dress with zebra print and thread fringes Gianfranco Ferré
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in Saint-Ouen-Sur-Seine, FR
Printed dress with zebra print and thread fringes. Main fabric composition: 67% rayon, 33% silk. Lining: 92% silk, 8% elastane. Split on both side. Zip and hook& eye closure on the m...
1980 GIANFRANCO FERRE Coral Light Weight Silk Low Back Minimalist Dress
By Gianfranco Ferré
Located in New York, NY
1980 GIANFRANCO FERRE Coral Light Weight Silk Low Back Minimalist Dress