Also called Aesthetic period jewelry, historians have determined that antique late Victorian jewelry and watches are representative of an era that lasted from about 1880 until 1901 and ushered in the Belle Époque.
Queen Victoria wore her heart on her sleeve, and her emotions were reflected in her fashion and in what we now call Victorian jewelry. By about 1880, Queen Victoria and her constituents were ready to look to the future. The dark skies were parting and fashion was changing. There was also a major shift in industry.
While in the beginning of Queen Victoria’s reign the focus was on manufacturing, toward the later years there was a renewed interest and appreciation of the handmade. The late Victorian period (1880–1901) was referred to as the Aesthetic period and coincided with these changing tastes.
The Aesthetic Movement, concerned with “art for art’s sake,” began in Britain around the 1870s and became recognized by designers and artists worldwide, eventually resulting in the Arts and Crafts movement (1880s–1920s).
Stylistically, jewelry of this time period did not resemble its earlier Victorian counterparts, in fact it was in complete opposition to what preceded it. Gone were the mourning jewelry, heavy brooches and large necklaces. Late Victorian-era jewelry was smaller, lighter and more dainty. Women still layered pieces, though, and favored smaller scatter pins. Jewelry also became an evening accessory and not so visible during the day.
Women were starting to actively participate in sporting events (socially, of course, not professionally), so athletic motifs showed up on their accessories. Lockets and heart pendants remained popular, but the REGARD or DEAREST rings of the early Victorian period were replaced by Mizpah pieces, which means “the Lord watches over me” in Hebrew. These items were exchanged between two people to symbolize a close bond.
Diamonds came into fashion, and semiprecious gems such as amethysts and opals became prevalent, too. Using gemstones for their natural beauty and not their worth was something that jewelers of the Aesthetics movement felt passionate about, and this ideology would really become relevant in Art Nouveau jewelry.
The Brits still looked to their monarchs to dictate the latest trends. Queen Victoria’s daughter-in-law Alexandra famously wore a dog-collar necklace, also known as a collier de chien, made up of multiple strands of pearls, to hide a scar. This style of necklace quickly rose to prominence. Toward the end of the 19th century, solitaire rings were also becoming fashionable thanks to Tiffany & Co.’s advent of the six-prong diamond setting in 1886. Platinum was starting to be used in jewelry production as well. Edwardian and, afterward, Art Deco engagement rings that followed in the wake of Queen Victoria’s death in 1901 would be characterized by complex geometric designs and platinum settings.
Women were the biggest influences on jewelry. They joined the workforce, fought for their independence and overall began to lead a much more active lifestyle. Jewelry had to become comfortable and serve multiple purposes. While in the United States, the Gibson Girls lifestyle was emulated by young women, and starlets became trendsetters.
Finally, the international expositions made the world seem like a much smaller place and jewelry from North Africa and India captured people’s attention, appealing to those who already favored Revival jewelry from the Etruscans to the Romans.
Find antique late Victorian jewelry and watches on 1stDibs.
Victorian Gunmetal Locket and Long Chain
Located in New York, NY
Lovely Victorian Gunmetal Locket and Long Chain from the late 19th Century. Original long chain interspersed with bar and bead sections. Original gunmetal hook and fittings. Large lo...
Base Metal
Victorian Diamond and Ruby 'Beggars Heart' Silver and Yellow Gold Pendant
Located in London, GB
A Victorian diamond and ruby 'Beggars Heart' silver and yellow gold pendant. This charming heart shaped pendant is composed of two hearts, one set within the other and both freely articulated. The outer heart is set with old mine cut diamonds in silver, which is typical for the Victorian period - this allows the white brilliance of the diamonds to really stand out against the blackened silver behind them. The inner heart is set with old cushion cut rubies in yellow gold, a warmer and softer background for their pinkish hue. The reverse of the pendant is finished in yellow gold. The old mine cut diamonds have a total weight of 1.40 carats approximately, assessed as H/I colour, VS2 clarity. Dimensions: 32 x 28 x 2mm The locket is threaded through with a modern, non original elegant 9 karat white gold 16 inch cable link chain. This pendant is a beautiful example of the romantic and sentimental Victorian aesthetic, no other time was the heart shape so wildy popular as during the era of Queen Victoria, who was the proud owner of many heart shaped jewels...
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold, Silver
Victorian Sterling Unger Bros. Indian Chief Fob
Located in New York, NY
Rare Victorian Sterling Unger Bros. Indian Chief Fob based an image of Sitting Bull from the late 19th Century. Signed. 1.75" x 1" wide. 1870's USA.
Sterling Silver
Gold-plated antique brooch-pendant with garnets and pearls
Located in Chorzów, PL
Gold-plated antique brooch-pendant with garnets and pearls An elegant antique brooch-pendant made of silver, plated with 14-karat yellow gold. The brooch-pendant has an interesting ...
Garnet, Pearl, Gold Plate, Silver
Antique Late Victorian 9ct Gold and Glass Floating Opal Chip Cross Pendant
Located in London, GB
Antique Late Victorian 9ct Gold and Glass Floating Opal Chip Cross Pendant, Circa 1890 An exceptional, museum-grade antique Late Victorian novelty "floating opal" cross pendant, circa 1890. Measuring an impressive 6.3 cm in total length, this historically significant reliquary-style piece features a hollow-blown, thick clear flint glass crucifix body. The interior is loosely filled with an abundance of coarse, natural Australian opal chippings that gracefully shift and flash with vibrant green, orange, and fire iridescence as the wearer moves. The neck of the glass vial features the characteristic black tar-oil pitch sealant used by 19th-century artisans to permanently preserve the contents. It is capped with its original, deeply hand-engraved 9-karat yellow gold collar and a matching gold suspension ring. A magnificent and highly collectible survivor of late 19th-century British jewelry innovation in immaculate condition. Era 1890s Smooth Strong glass with curved edges inside are held many genuine Opal Chips- Topped with a hand engraved Deep 9ct Gold rim - and 9ct gold open bolt ring. Actual Size 6.5cm x 2 cm Rare Unusual Item...
Opal, 9k Gold
2.38 Carats Diamond Pendant
Located in Hong Kong, HK
This exquisite diamond pendant features a unique design of nine delicate flower motifs, intricately connected to form an elegant diamond-shaped pattern. With a total of 2.38 carats o...
Diamond, White Gold
Antique Victorian 18 Karat Yellow Gold Harp with Rose-Cut Diamond Locket
Located in New York, NY
Antique Victorian 18 Karat Yellow Gold Harp with Rose-cut Diamond and Pearl Locket c.1900 23.66 grams W: 37.25 H: 67.59 Depth: 13.35
Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Victorian 1890s Diamond Aquamarine Pearl and Yellow Gold Pendant or Brooch
Located in Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne
A stunning Victorian 3.22 carat diamond and 2.10 carat aquamarine, seed pearl and 18 karat gold pendant / brooch; part of our diverse antique jewelry collections. This stunning, fine and impressive antique aquamarine pendant...
Aquamarine, Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold