The British jeweler Sir Laurence Graff (b. 1938) became utterly mesmerized by diamonds when he undertook his first apprenticeship at age 15 in London’s Hatton Garden jewelry district. It wasn't long before he established his now-celebrated eponymous brand, which produces engagement rings, necklaces, rings, earrings, stand-alone jewels, watches and more — all entirely in-house.
Graff had enrolled in classes at Central School of Arts and Crafts, and while he initially showed promise and was highly regarded, the shop owner, Mr. Schindler — who had his apprentice scrubbing floors and toilets — soon changed his tune, deeming him subpar. Undeterred, Graff learned to repair rings and designed small jewels at a humble workbench in his bedroom. He opened a 24-hour ring-repair service with a business partner and, in 1960, founded his luxury house. Two retail locations followed in London in 1962. Graff would go on to become one of the finest diamantaires in the world and was appointed an OBE in 2013 by Queen Elizabeth for his services to the jewelry industry.
Graff is known for handling some of the most famous diamonds in the world, including the Windsor Yellows, the Paragon, the Lesotho Promise and the Wittelsbach-Graff. He also purchased the 302.37-carat Graff Lesedi La Rona, which, at the time, was the largest diamond ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America. The GIA certified the diamond — then the second-largest gem-quality rough diamond on record — as being of highest color and highest clarity. Lucara Diamond Corporation workers discovered the 1,109-carat rough diamond in 2015 at the Karowe mine in Botswana, and after Graff purchased the diamond in 2017, his gemologists and craftsmen spent more than 18 months polishing its final facets.
While many jewels, such as the Graff Lesedi La Rona, remain in Graff’s collection, he does sell extremely high-quality stand-alone jewels. Gems in his showrooms can reportedly fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars on average. Although these stones are perhaps slightly out of the budget of a typical Graff jewelry client, the house does work with more reasonably priced, but no less exceptional gems for its collections.
Naturally, diamonds feature prominently in Graff jewelry, which is known for being more avant-garde than traditional, although Graff does create classic engagement rings, too. The jeweler’s ready-to-wear collections integrate naturalistic motifs like butterflies, bows and sunbursts, as well as striking silhouettes like the crisscrossed Kiss, the clustered Threads and the swirling Inspired by Twombly line, which pays homage to the work of American painter and sculptor Cy Twombly. And while diamonds are the main focus for Graff, his jewelry occasionally features other precious and semiprecious stones.
Browse Graff watches, rings, earrings and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Jubilee Cut Diamond Ruby Gold Retro Ring
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Oscar Heyman Vintage Cocktail Ring Gold Platinum Ruby Diamond Estate Jewelry
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A stunning Oscar Heyman vintage cocktail ring, crafted in 18k gold and platinum, featuring a bold arrangement of rubies and diamonds. The center showcases three rows of rectangular, ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Platinum, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage Burma Ruby Diamond Gold Cluster Ring AGL Estate Jewelry
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A classic vintage ruby and diamond cluster ring made of 14k white gold. The gorgeous Burma ruby in the center is surrounded by ten round brilliant cut diamonds. The unbeatable white and red combo magnifies the allure of both gemstones. The ruby has an amazing rich color and luster. The diamonds are dazzling and perfectly sized for the setting. If you are looking for a reasonably priced ruby ring that will be passed from generation to generation within your family, then look no further. This ruby precious stone jewel was created to be a special piece in your collection. The ruby comes with an AGL Gemstone Report (please see picture 4). This classic vintage cocktail ring is made of 14 karat (stamped) white gold and features an approximately 3.40-carat oval faceted ruby (11.44 x 8.97 x 3.95 mm), accented with ten round brilliant cut diamonds (H-I color, VS clarity, total weight 2.80 carats). The vintage ruby ring top measures ¾” x 5/8” (2 x 1.7 cm). The 14k gold ring weighs 7.5 grams. The ring is size 6.75 (resizable) and is stamped with a hallmark for 14 karat gold. About Cluster Rings: Cluster rings are a style of jewelry that features a central arrangement of multiple smaller gemstones grouped closely together, creating a cluster or floral-like pattern. The main idea behind this style is to visually enhance the center stone and give it a larger appearance. The clustered arrangement of gemstones creates a great display of color and brilliance. This feature makes cluster rings eye-catching and serves as a symbol of energy, and the joyous moments they may represent. The meaning of this ring design varies and depends on the context. For some jewelry lovers, a cluster ring symbolizes unity and togetherness. Others see this design as a commitment symbol, and for others, they're all about bringing two families together. That's why these rings are often picked for a wedding, especially for people with kids from previous relationships. It's a beautiful way to convey unique qualities and shared experiences. Cluster rings are often chosen to honor significant milestones, such as anniversaries or the birth of a child. The multiple gemstones may represent different moments in life, making the ring a personalized celebration of the couple's history. About Vintage Jewelry: Vintage jewelry is a broad topic with multiple aspects to discuss. We decided to answer a few basic questions to provide a broad introduction to this captivating subject. So, what defines vintage...
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, White Gold
Bvlgari Bulgari Band Ring 18k Gold Cabochon Ruby Diamond AGL Certificate
By Bulgari
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
A vintage Bulgari band ring made 18k gold, featuring cabochon ruby and diamonds. The ring comes with the AGL and GIA certificates. The band has a smooth and substantial presence wit...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage 18k Gold Gemstone Cocktail Ring French
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
An impressive vintage 18k gold cocktail ring featuring gemstones. The ring’s shape is reminiscent of a fortune cookie, with its top edge adorned in an array of sapphires, diamonds, a...
Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
Vintage 18k White Gold Cluster Ring Diamond Ruby 1.75ct Burma
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This vintage 18k white gold cluster ring showcases a vivid 1.75-carat natural ruby of Burma origin. The oval-cut ruby is framed by a halo of bright, round-cut diamonds. With its bala...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Ring
Located in Laguna Beach, CA
This beautiful, cluster style 18 karat yellow gold ring weighs 5.50 grams. It contains a center 5.5x5mm oval-shaped natural ruby mounted in a bezel setting, with a carat weight of ap...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage ruby diamond 14k yellow gold ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This striking vintage ruby and diamond ring is a glamorous 1980’s design, centered by a cabochon ruby weighing approximately 2.00 carats. The smooth cabochon surface highlights the r...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Ring with AGL Certificate
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
A bold vintage ruby and diamond ring crafted in 18K yellow gold, stamped 750, centered with an oval ruby weighing approximately 2.00 carats. The ruby measures approximately 8.50 x 6....
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
14K Yellow Gold Ring with 2.50 Ct. Ruby and Diamonds. (Size 7.25)
Located in San Juan Capistrano, CA
14K Yellow Gold Ring with 2.50 Ct. Ruby and Diamonds. (Size 7.25) New Gender: Ladies. Ring Size: 7.25 U.S. Weight: 4.80 Grams. Metal Type: 14K Yellow Gold. Condition: Excel...
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Vintage 18K Yellow Gold Ruby and Diamond Statement Ring
Located in Great Neck Plaza, NY
A dramatic and sculptural vintage statement ring crafted in 18K yellow gold, centering a vivid oval-cut ruby weighing approximately 1.89 carats. The ruby’s intense crimson hue is acc...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage ruby diamond 18k yellow gold ring
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
This elegant vintage ruby and diamond ring is a beautifully detailed 1990’s design, featuring 8 cabochon cut rubies weighing approximately 0.10 carat in total. Their smooth, rounded ...
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Featuring center stones of coral and jade, it’s a triumph of mid-century jewelry design.
Exceptional jewels, thoughtfully designed and meticulously handmade, are the specialty of the house.
