Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Unisex Gold Double Wavy Windy Leaf Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Unisex Large Vivid Double Textured Wavy Windy Leaf Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition, 100% Genuine. A unique piece. ...
Gold Plate
Early Georg Jensen Bird Eating Berries Sterling Brooch Pin 53 Denmark 1933-1944
By Georg Jensen
Located in New York, NY
This is the large gorgeous early (1933-1944) Georg Jensen sterling silver pin brooch in the form of a bird eating berries with leaves in a gorgeous open work design. The brooch has ...
Sterling Silver, Silver
Masriera 18KT Yellow Gold Dragonfly Brooch/ Pendant 2.94Ct Diamond 1.69Ct Ruby
Located in New York, NY
From the house of the prolific Art Nouveau designer, Luis Masriera comes a long tradition of prestige, creativity and unparalleled craftsmanship. These stylistically distinctive works of art, have been crafted by Masriera since 1839 and continue to be made today with the techniques used decades ago: plique-à-jour, basse-taille, champlevé, vitreous enameling and Barcelona enameling. This magnificent 18 karat yellow gold dragonfly brooch is designed with the plique-a-jour enamel technique. Round brilliant diamonds and rubies are set throughout this very special brooch...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Christian Dior Vintage GROSSE 1964 Rare Gold Four Curled Swirl Wavy Leaf Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1964 Vintage Unisex Textured Four Curled Swirl Wavy Leaf Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition. Not any colour loss. 100% Genuine. ...
Gold Plate
Vintage 1930's Sterling Silver Cameo Brooch Pendant Shell Silhouette Marcasite
Located in Nashville, TN
This wonderful 1930's cameo brooch and pendant, , in a sterling silver metal frame, embellished with clusters of small marcasite stones, is the perfect piece for your jewellery colle...
Marcasite, Sterling Silver
Givenchy Vintage 1980s Large White Circle Pearl Openwork Knot Bow Ribbon Brooch
By Givenchy
Located in Wokingham, England
Givenchy Vintage 1980s Unisex Large Knot Bow Ribbon White Circle Round Pearl Glow Chunky Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very beautiful. 100% Genuine. ...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU 14k Gold and platinum Brooch with 1.20ct Old Mine Cut Diamonds
Located in The Hague, ZH
14k white gold with platinum brooch set with Old Mine cut Diamonds up to 1.20 carat - 5.4 cm x 2.9 cm Detailed description The brooch is 5.4 cm wide and 2.9 cm high weight: 9.1 gr...
Diamond, 14k Gold, Platinum
Antique Griffin Pin of 14k Gold with Gem Accents, Circa 1910
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Antique Griffin Brooch in 14k Gold with Gem Accents (c. 1910) A powerful symbol of protection and strength, this antique griffin brooch from circa 1910 is an exceptional example of ...
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold
Christian Dior Vintage 1968 GROSSE Gold Textured Layer Rose Curled Flower Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1968 Vintage Textured Vivid Flower Layers Rose Curled Leaf Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches, barely noticeab...
Gold Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Rare Cross Emerald Amethyst Asymmetric Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage 1980s Unisex Large Asymmetric Cross Emerald Amethyst Purple Green Square Circle Crystals Drop Openwork Chunky Statement Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone ...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU Brooch with old mine cut diamonds up to 0.92ct 18k gold and platinum
Located in The Hague, ZH
18k gold with platina brooch set with Old Mine cut diamonds up to 0.92ct – G/H – SI detailed description: the size of the brooch is 4.5 cm long by 2.0 cm wide weight 5.5 grams s...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum
X A rose is a rose Blue Diamond Brooch
Located in Stockholm, SE
This diamond brooch is an exceptional choice for milestone occasions such as weddings, anniversaries, or gala debuts, offering timeless elegance that never overshadows the wearer. Cr...
Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
René Lalique Butterfly Woman Brooch
By René Lalique
Located in New Orleans, LA
This extraordinary brooch by René Lalique captures the daring imagination that made him the defining genius of Art Nouveau jewelry. Crafted circa 1900, this treasure transforms the f...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Large Carved White Pearl Openwork Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1970s Baroque Huge Oval Circle Pearl Carving Relief Heart Openwork Chunky Elegant Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition (very tiny scratches, no loss o...
Gold Plate
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Robert Goossens Gold Fuchsia Red Purple Heart Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Robert Goossens Vintage Unisex Fuchsia Red Purple Cabochon Heart Love Crystal Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition, maybe light scra...
Gold Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Large Gold Logo Filigree Openwork Heart Love Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix 1980s Vintage Unisex Large Logo Initial Filigree Openwork Heart Love Chunky Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches or ...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Aquamarine & Pearl Brooch Set in Silver & Gold - France - Circa 1900
Located in Chatham, CA
Art Nouveau Aquamarine and pearl brooch set in silver and gold - featuring a bezel set emerald shape Aquamarine to the center (approx. 4.02...
Aquamarine, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Silver
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Large Water Lily Palm Leaf Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Large Water Lily Palm Leaf Layers Crystals Exquisite Elegant Modernist Chunky Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine. A uni...
Gold Plate
Chanel Vintage 1994 Rare Unisex Huge Iconic Coco CC Timeless Domed Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1994 94P Unisex Huge Coco Classic Iconic Timeless Large Glow CC Logo Domed Chunky Statement Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Not any colour loss,...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage 1967 GROSSE Rare Elegant Flourish Blossom Flower Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Vivid Flourish Blossom Flower Leaf Elegant Brooch, Gold Plated Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, some light red spots on the su...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Unisex Gold White Pearls Croissant Twist Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Long Trio Three White Circle Pearls Croissant Twist Bar Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Excellent condition, very new. 100% Genuine. A uni...
Gold Plate
Georg Jensen Sterling Silver Moonlight Blossom No. 159 Brooch
By Georg Jensen
Located in New York, NY
A beautifully sculptural vintage brooch by Georg Jensen, crafted in solid sterling silver and set with luminous cabochon moonstones. This circular design features flowing, organic scrollwork accented by bead details, with moonstones arranged throughout the composition to create a soft, ethereal glow characteristic of classic Scandinavian jewelry...
Moonstone, Sterling Silver
$360Sale Price / item|20% Off
Art Nouveau Silver Brooch with Female Portrait, Detailed Relief, 1970
Located in Honolulu, HI
This finely crafted silver brooch beautifully captures the organic elegance and ethereal grace of the Art Nouveau movement. The centerpiece is an asymmetrical, highly detailed female...
Silver
$455Sale Price / item|50% Off
Silvorra 9.15ct Multi Gemstone Embedded Maple Leaf Oxidised Brooch Pendant
Located in New York, NY
This enchanting 9.15 carats opals, rubies, blue sapphires, and emeralds multigemstone and diamond leaf brooch pendant is crafted in 925 sterling silver, designed with an elegant open...
Diamond, Emerald, Multi-gemstone, Opal, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Silver, Ste...
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage Rare Massive Nest Crystals Pearl Swirl Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage Arty Massive White Round Circle Pearl Cabochon Red Pink Yellow Blue Green Crystals Swirl Nest Openwork Chunky Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Floral Enamel Pearl and Diamond 18k Gold Brooch Pendant
Located in Miami Beach, FL
Stunning art nouveau enamel floral lily style spray brooch featuring seven graduating pearls on top of diamond and 18k yellow gold stems. The brooch has two green enamel leaves that...
Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel Gothic Huge Baroque Mirror Statement Pendant
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel 2007 Unisex Massive Huge Versatile Baroque Mirror Heart Angel Arrow Feather Shield Gothic Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Pendant Brooch, Silver To...
Silver Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Gold Cross Star Heart Logo Openwork Statement Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Unisex Baroque Relief Textured Cross Star Heart Love Logo Openwork Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe lig...
Gold Plate
$3,388,962
X Glaciar Monach
Located in Stockholm, SE
Featuring a 1.07carat GIA-certified Fancy Light Greenish Blue diamond with VS1 clarity and no fluorescence, is exquisitely set amidst a cascade of 3,188 diamonds and sapphires. These...
Diamond, Blue Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Blue Sapphire, 18k Gold
HEDGE & CO. 1900 Art Nouveau Purple Enamel Pansy Brooch In 14Kt Gold & Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Art nouveau Pansy flower pendant brooch designed by A.J. Hedge & Co. This is a colorful pendant-brooch, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau periods, back in ...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Gold White Pearl Crystals Large Magnolia Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Wavy Blossom Flourish Flower Magnolia White Circle Round Pearl Crystals Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition and very new. 100% Genuine. ...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Enamel Violet Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau Enamel Violet Brooch from the turn of the 20th Century. Lovely, realistically rendered handmade brooch with vibrant green and pearl wh...
Sterling Silver, Enamel
Christian Dior Vintage GROSSE 1964 UnisexGold Double Long Knot Bow Ribbon Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1964 Vintage Long Double Wavy Long Knot Bow Ribbon Butterfly Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition. Only colour loss at the back pin....
Gold Plate
A.J Hedges & Co. 1900 Art Nouveau Enamel Pansy Pendant In 14Kt Gold With Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Art nouveau Pansy flower pendant brooch designed by A.J. Hedge & Co. A colorful pendant-brooch, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau periods, back in the 1900...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior GROSSE 1960 Vintage Large Leaf Five Curled Wavy Vivid Gold Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1960 Vintage Unisex Large Textured Vivid Swirl Wavy Five Leaf Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches or colour los...
Gold Plate
Antique Victorian/Art Nouveau Sash Pin Brooch
Located in Monroe Township, NJ
A stunning and intricate brooch featuring a central faceted amethyst glass cabochon, surrounded by a detailed snake, filigree butterfly, and two applied birds with ruby glass eyes. C...
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Pearl Crystals White Round Flower Brooch Pin
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Vivid White Round Pearl Crystals Blossom Flower Elegant Modernist Pin Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. A unique piece. 100% genuine. This is go...
Gold Plate
Chanel 1995 Vintage Rare Gold Large Gripoix Coco Pink Pearls Cabochon Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1995 Coco Large Gripoix Pink White Pearls Crystals Cabochon Openwork Chunky Logo CC Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Peel off on the faux pearls, barely noticea...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU 1915 Enameled Flower Brooch In 18Kt Gold With Diamonds & Ruby
Located in Miami, FL
Art Nouveau enameled flower brooch. This fabulous three-dimensional flower brooch was created in Europe during the Art Nouveau periods, back in the 1915 The beautiful brooch has bee...
Diamond, Ruby, White Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel, 18k Gold
Art Nouveau Butterfly Pendant Brooch 30 OMC Diamonds Ruby Enamel 18 Karat Gold
Located in New York, NY
A wonderful and rare early Art Nouveau Brooch Pendant in the form of a Butterfly. The magnificent Butterfly is 18 Karat Gold. It is set with 30 gorgeous Old Mine Cut Diamonds. The...
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Vintage American Art Nouveau 14K Yellow Gold Enamel Pearl Lapel Pin
Located in New York, NY
A Flourish of Early 20th-Century Elegance Capture the spirit of the Art Nouveau era with this Vintage American 14K Yellow Gold Lapel Pin, adorned with iridescent enamel and a baroque...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Art Nouveau Sterling silver Portrait Brooch Pin Pendant 1920s
Located in Wallkill, NY
Stunning Art Nouveau Brooch/ Pendant. Double duty, wear as a Pin or as a pendant with great Floral Motif on this piece. Measuring 1.50 x 1.44. This is out of a massive collection of ...
Sterling Silver
Christian Dior 1966 Vintage Unisex Green Cabochon Oval Rectangle Elegant Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1966 Vintage Unisex 4 Four Dark Green Emerald Oval Rectangle Cabochon Elegant Monderist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, barely ...
Gold Plate
Larter & Sons 1900 Art Nouveau Enameled Pansy Flower Brooch In 14Kt Gold Diamond
Located in Miami, FL
Enameled Pansy flower brooch designed by Larter & Son. A pristine Edwardian art Nouveau flower brooch, created in Newark New Jersey by the jewelry company of Larter & Sons., back in...
Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Chanel Vintage 1970s Large Ribbon Festive Knot Bow Gift Present Chunky Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1970s Large Knot Bow Gift Present Ribbon Festive Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Maybe light scratches, barely noticeab...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU brooch with old mine and single cut diamonds upt o 1.25ct 18k gold
Located in The Hague, ZH
18k white gold brooch set with Old Mine cut and single cut diamonds up to. approx. 1.25 ct F/G VS/SI Detailed description The brooch is 6.0 cm wide and 1.5 cm high Total weight: 7...
Diamond, 18k Gold
Art Nouveau 1900 Edwardian Enamel Orchid Flower Brooch in 14 Karat Yellow Gold
Located in Miami, FL
Edwardian art nouveau enamel Orchid brooch. An exceptional three-dimensional piece, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau p...
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
LIBERTY STYLE 1890 England Pendant-brooch In 18Kt Gold, Coral, Pearls & Diamonds
Located in Miami, FL
A British liberty art-nouveau style pendant brooch. This is a superb pendant-brooch created in England in the beginnings of the Liberty style period, back in 1890. The piece has be...
Coral, Diamond, Pearl, White Diamond, Natural Pearl, Gold, Yellow Gold, ...
ART NOUVEAU brooch with old mine and rose cut diamond up to 0.15ct 14k gold
Located in The Hague, ZH
14k bicolor gold brooch set with old mine cut and rose cut diamonds. 0.15ct - F/G - SI detailed description: The size of the brooch is 5.5 cm long by 9.8 mm high weight: 3.5 grams...
Diamond, 14k Gold
American Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Brooch
Located in Riverdale, NY
Wonderful American Art Nouveau 14k Plique a Jour Brooch of enameled poppies on a pale green plique a jour ground. Flowers modeled in high relief w...
14k Gold
Christian Dior Vintage GROSSE 1965 Turquoise Green Cluster Flower Gold Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1965 Vintage Turquoise Green Blue Beads Stones Cluster Flourish Blossom Flower Bouquet Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches...
Gold Plate
$291Sale Price|37% Off
French Antique brooch in gold metal and rock crystals
Located in VALLADOLID, ES
Gorgeous and unique classic gold brooch with faceted rock crystal. It features a design with intricate floral motifs and 22 set round crystals. The large pyramidal crystal in the ce...
Gold, Gilt Metal
Art Nouveau 2.65 Ct Diamond 18KT Gold Platinum Brooch Pendant
Located in Napoli, IT
This impressive Art Nouveau Diamond brooch pendant is 1890 ca Sensual, sinuous lines expertly carved from rich 18 KT gold, contraste...
Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Platinum
Brooch shape of a fish with single cut diamonds up to 0.50ct platinum 4.0 grams
Located in The Hague, ZH
Platinum brooch in the shape of a fish set with single cut diamonds. 0.50ct – F/G – VS/SI detailed description: the size of the brooch is 1.6 cm long by 2.3 cm wide weight 4.0 gr...
Diamond, Platinum
Rose Cut Diamond Hardstone Cameo Goddess Woman Brooch Platinum Gold Art Nouveau
Located in New York, NY
This is one of the most beautiful Antique Art Nouveau - Belle Epoque Hardstone Cameo Brooches we have seen. The extraordinary hand carved image of the woman, or Goddess, is framed b...
Diamond, Gold, Yellow Gold, 14k Gold, Platinum
Fendi Vintage Gripoix Gold Ruby Emerald Lapis Crown Maltese Cross Logo Brooch
By Fendi
Located in Wokingham, England
Fendi Vintage 1980s Gripoix Logo F Fendista Crown Crest Maltese Cross Cabochon Ruby Emerald Lapis Onyx Red Green Blue Black Chunky Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent conditi...
Gold Plate
Hedges & Co. 1900 Art Nouveau Purple Enamel Pansy Brooch In 14Kt Gold and Pearl
Located in Miami, FL
Art nouveau Pansy flower pendant brooch designed by A.J. Hedge & Co. A colorful pendant-brooch, created in America during the Edwardian and the Art Nouveau periods, back in the 1900...
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Art Nouveau 10k Yellow Gold Diamond & Enamel Flower Pin Brooch Pendant
Located in Montclair, NJ
–Stone(s)– (2) Natural Genuine Diamond - Old Mine Cut - Prong Set - G Color - VS2 Clarity - 0.04ctw (approx.) Material: 10K Yellow Gold Weight: 2.82 Grams Overall Width: 27.15mm (1....
Diamond, Gold, 10k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Chanel Vintage 1993 Large Gold Logo CC Heart Bow Cambon Paris Arrow Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1993 93P Runway Iconic Classic Unisex Large Logo CC Heart Cambon Paris Arrow Dangle Bow Star Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition....
Gold Plate
Antique Lily of the Valley Russian Gold Brooch
Located in Cairo, EG
Antique Russian brooch in lily of the valley design with dangling prongs setting in green demantoid stones brooch length 6cm hall marked 56 impe...
14k Gold