Art Nouveau — generally considered to have begun in the late 1800s and ended with the start of World War I — was a movement in the decorative arts that drew inspiration from natural forms, such as trees, flowers and, of course, the human figure. The three main themes present in Art Nouveau jewelry and watches were flora, fauna and women.
Art Nouveau, which reached its pinnacle in the year 1900, spawned from artists who rejected the historicism of their predecessors to create an entirely new visual vocabulary. As compared to Art Deco jewelry’s geometric patterns and sharp lines, the extravagant style of antique Art Nouveau jewelry is characterized by curvilinear forms and whiplash lines, vibrant materials and dramatic imagery.
The first art and design movement of the 20th century, Art Nouveau was also a reaction against the Industrial Revolution, and took its inspiration from the theories of the Symbolists, the art of the Pre-Raphaelites, the ideas of John Ruskin and his follower William Morris and, most importantly Japanese crafts. (The country was a fertile ground for inspiration after it was opened to the West in 1854.) The Art Nouveau style touched all manners of the arts, including the most exultant jewelry.
Nature was a favorite muse for artists going back to the 18th and 19th centuries, but in the hands of 20th-century artists, it was depicted in new ways. For example, a withering flower was considered just as beautiful as one in full bloom. Winged creatures, such as insects and birds, were also a popular subject. Dragonflies and butterflies were particular favorites because they morphed so dramatically in different life stages.
This was also a reference to women, whose role in society was evolving. It was not uncommon to see a piece of jewelry that would at once reference a woman as a winged creature (think René Lalique’s famous Dragonfly brooch, circa 1897–98, at the Gulbenkian Collection in Lisbon). However, just as women’s roles were ambiguous, so was their image, as the femmes nouvelle were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized.
In addition to Lalique, vital figures in Art Nouveau jewelry included Louis Comfort Tiffany in the United States, Vladimir Soloviev, who designed jewelry for Peter Carl Fabergé in Russia, Fuset Grau of Spain, Karl Rothmuller of Germany and Philippe Wolfers of Belgium.
Art Nouveau jewelers used every “canvas” imaginable, looking beyond brooches and necklaces to belt buckles, fans, tiaras, dog collars (a type of choker necklace), pocket watches, corsages and hair combs. Multicolored gems and enamel could complete this vision better than diamonds. Jewelers also favored pearls, particularly baroque pearls, for their large size and irregular shape. However, opal was the most popular stone — its iridescence harmonized perfectly with the enamel, and it could be carved into any shape. Art Nouveau jewelry was primarily set in yellow gold.
Find a range of antique Art Nouveau jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Christian Dior 1961 Vintage Orange Citrine Crystals Silver Domed Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1961 Vintage Citrine Amber Orange Whole Shining Crystals Round Circle Dome 6 Layers Brooch, Silver Plated Very good condition. Not any stones lost. Rare to find. 100%...
Silver Plate
Antique Art Nouveau 18K Old Mine Cut Aquamarine Repoussé Iris Brooch
Located in Winter Springs, FL
An exceptional original Art Nouveau brooch, handcrafted in repoussé and chased 18 karat yellow gold, circa 1895–1910, during the height of the Art Nouveau movement. Inspired by natur...
Aquamarine, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Robert Goossens Shell Coral Branch White Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Robert Goossens Iconic Classic White Coquillage Shell Coral Crystals Branch Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very good condition. Not sure if it is a sma...
Gold Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Rare Sunburst Blue Turquoise Pearl Statement Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Unisex Large Sunburst Navy Blue Heart Love Crystals White Pearl Turquoise Flower Chunky Statement Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. ...
Gold Plate
Antique Signed Krementz Art Nouveau 14K Gold, Enamel, & Pearl Brooch or Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique gold, enamel, and pearl brooch. In 14 karat yellow gold. By Krementz & Co. With an openwork gold body and a central seed pearl surrounded by enameled leaf devices....
Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel
Antique Faux Coral Floral Pin in Brass Tone, Prong Set Beads and Flower Motifs
Located in Milford, DE
Discover the charm of vintage elegance with the antique floral brass pin, featuring a beautifully carved faux coral flower centerpiece. This exquisite pin is a testament to classic c...
Christian Dior GROSSE 1962 Gold Intertwined Ruby Red Crystals Flower Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1962 Vintage Large Intertwined Flower Leaf Bush Ruby Red Crystals Elegant Modernist Chunky Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches and colour lo...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Opal Gold Brooch Australian Precious Opal Unisex Arnould 1910 Brooch
Located in Berlin, DE
An exceptional piece - Art nouveau Opal Brooch from original catalogue of french jeweller Edouard Aimé Arnould, circa 1910 brooch measurement...
Crystal, Opal, Gold, 18k Gold
Antique Art Nouveau Devil's Mask 14K Gold & Pearl Stick Pin or Lapel Pin
Located in Philadelphia, PA
A fine antique Art Nouveau stick pin. In 14k gold. In the form of a devil's mask. Set with small green glass eyes and a small round p...
Pearl, 14k Gold
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel 93 Large Gold Heart Logo Flower Statement Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel 93 Unisex Large Logo Heart Love Flower Leaf Openwork Craved Relief Chunky Statement Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Limited edition for designed C...
Gold Plate
Chanel Vintage 1997 Gripoix Red Green Cabochon Pearls Birds Nest Logo Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1997 Unisex Gripoix Logo CC Red Green Purple Cabochon White Round Circle Pearls Birds Nest Openwork Wire Chunky 3D CC Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condi...
Gold Plate
Antique 14 Karat French Painted Enamel Diamond Portrait Brooch Pin or Pendant
Located in Baltimore, MD
Antique 14 Karat French Painted Enamel Natural Diamond Portrait Brooch/ Pendant Metal: 14k yellow gold Weight: 7.36 grams Diamonds: 4 single cut natural diamonds, approx. .12 CTW G...
Diamond, Enamel
$3,038Sale Price|20% Off
Alling & Co. 1900 Art Nouveau Enamel Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Peridot And Pearls
Located in Miami, FL
Art nouveau brooch with gemstones designed by Alling & Co. Beautiful antique brooch, created during the art nouveau period in Newark United States by the jewelry makers Alling & Com...
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Peridot, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Art Nouveau Maiden Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau sterling high relief brooch of a maiden with head wrap. Whiplash ribbons of silver form the frame capped in tiny lily of the valley buds. Highly unusual subject matter. M...
Sterling Silver
Antique Art Nouveau 18k Gold Diamond Seed Pearl Enamel Work Flower Pin Brooch
Located in Montclair, NJ
–Stone(s)– (3) Natural Genuine Diamonds - Rose Cut - Bead Set - Nice White Diamonds - 2-2.5mm (approx.) (1) Cultured Seed Pearl - Round Shape - White Color - 2.4mm (approx.) Materia...
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Chanel Vintage Lucky Clover Flower Black White Pearl Water Drop Gold Brooch Pin
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1970s Unisex Lucky Clover Flower Black Enamel Round Circle Large White Water Drop Dangle White Pearl Elegant Modernist Brooch Pin, Gold Plated Very good condition. Li...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage 1962 Pearls Crystals White Snowflake Flower Round Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1962 Large White Round Circle Four Pearls Marquise Sparkling Crystals Snowflake Flower Leaf Elegant Brooch, Silver Plated Very excellent condition. Not any st...
Silver Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Large Openwork Marquise Exquisite Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1950s Large Openwork Marquise Circle Crystals Drop Chunky Exquisite Elegant Brooch, Gold Plated Good condition. Some scratches or colour loss, since dating to...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Unisex Crystals Long Fire Swirl Openwork Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Unisex Long Fire Croissant Crystals Swirl Openwork Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% genuine. A unique piece. This is gold pl...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Trio Stones Coral Blood Fruit Flower Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Vivid Trio Blood Stones Coral Orange Red Flourish Blossom Flower Fruit Leaf Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Maybe light scratches or colour...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Plique a Jour Enamel Woman Brooch of 14k Gold
Located in Lewisburg, PA
Do you love Art Nouveau jewelry? From your dreams to your imagination comes this extraordinary antique brooch! This stunning piece of art history is perfect for any jewelry collecto...
Diamond, Emerald, Pearl, 14k Gold, Enamel
Chanel Vintage Rare Gold 1994 CC Coco Logo Circle Rope Interlocked Chunky Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1994 Unisex Iconic Classic Logo CC Coco Round Circle Rope Interlocked Openwork 94P Chunky Statement Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% Genuine...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Rare GROSSE Gold Radiant Sun Star Crystals Flowers Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1970s Vintage Radiant Sun Star Burst Crystals Blossom Flourish Cluster Flower Floral Branch Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very ...
Gold Plate
Fendi Vintage Rare Unisex Fendista Black Logo White Pearl Dangle Vine Brooch
By Fendi
Located in Wokingham, England
Fendi Vintage 1980s Unisex Fendista Logo Black F White Round Circle Pearl Dangle Drop Vine Rope Bar Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very rare to find. High val...
Gold Plate
$317Sale Price|20% Off
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Black Crystals Swirl Flame Openwork Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Unisex Long Black Enamel Crystals Swirl Flame Openwork Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine. A unique piece. T...
Gold Plate
Broche Art nouveau en or à décor d'iris émaillé et de cabochons de rubis
Located in PARIS, FR
Broche Art nouveau en or 18 carats (750 millièmes). De forme losangique, elle est centrée d'un œillet émaillé et de deux cabochons de rubis stylisant des bourgeons sur un fond martel...
Ruby, 18k Gold
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Massive Gold Vivid Leaf Feather Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Unisex Massive Large Textured Vivid Feather Leaf Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% Genuine. Rare to fi...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior GROSSE 1969 Vintage Large Chunky Swirl Twist Gold Silver Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1969 Vintage Large Chunky Swirl Twist Modenist Elegant Statement Brooch, Gold Silver Tone Very excellent condition. 100% genuine. A unique piece. This is gold...
Gold Plate, Silver Plate
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Gold Crystals Feather Vivid Leaf Openwork Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Unisex Vivid Openwork Feather Leaf Crystals Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine. A unique piece. This...
Gold Plate
Antique 14K Yellow Gold Enamel Brooch with Natural Pearl, circa 1890
Located in Berlin, BE
Charming antique brooch from around 1890, finely crafted in 14 karat yellow gold. The piece features delicate enamel detailing and a natural pearl accent, typical of late 19th centur...
Natural Pearl, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Dior Vintage 1965 Scarab Beetle Blue Pink Black Cabochon Domed Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1965 Unisex Navy Blue Lapis Pink Black Whole Crystals Cabochon Scarab Beetle Dome Brooch, Gold Plated Very good condition. Very rare to find. High value coll...
Gold Plate
Stanley Hagler Vintage Hummingbird Huge Pearls Blue Green Flower Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Stanley Hagler Vintage 1980s Huge Massive Extra Large Hummingbird Bird Vivid Wing Crystals Flower Leaf Navy Blue Green Turquoise Beads Pearls Modernist Elegant Chunky Brooch, Gold To...
Gold Plate
Golay and Fils Diamond Flower Maiden Brooch Swiss Enamel Art Nouveau 18 Karat
Located in New York, NY
This is a spectacular flower maiden brooch in enamel with rose cut diamonds in 18 Karat gold by Golay & Fils of Geneva, Switzerland. A beautiful maiden is set within a vivid red fl...
Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Scandanavian Art Nouveau Moonstone Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Scandanavian Art Nouveau Moonstone Skonvirke Pendant Brooch from the turn of the 20th Century. Hand raised floriform patterning and set with 5...
Moonstone, Sterling Silver
Christian Dior Vintage Rare GROSSE 1967 Gold Pearl White Round Spiral Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1967 Vintage Unisex Textured Trio Twist Spiral White Round Pearl Dome Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. 100% Genuine. A unique piece. This is gold plated...
Gold Plate
Unusual French Galleon Brooch
Located in New York, NY
French Galleon brooch from the early 1900's. Beautifully constructed of mother of pearl sails and hand carved sterling with amazing details. Extremely o...
Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau Sand-Cast Sterling Silver Woman Antique Brooch Pendant, 1910s
Located in North Attleboro, MA
Authentic 1910s Art Nouveau sand-cast sterling silver brooch and pendant featuring a sculptural woman’s profile with floral and sunray motifs. Wearable as pin or necklace. Channel t...
Silver, Sterling Silver
Art Nouveau garland brooch, silver and turquoise, Art Nouveau, France
Located in VALLADOLID, ES
A charming garland-shaped brooch crafted from silver with small turquoise cabochons at the center of the flowers, originating from 1920s France. This piece, shaped like a garland, is...
Turquoise, Silver
Christian Dior Vintage Rare Gold Oval Mesh Openwork Crystals Long Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Trio 3 Oval Mesh Openwork Crystals Long Chunky Statement Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. Not any stones l...
Gold Plate
Christian Lacroix Vintage Gold Huge Massive Vivid Leaf Heart Love Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Unisex Huge Massive Extra Large Textured Vivid Leaf Love Heart Elegant Modernist Statement Chunky Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Maybe light scratc...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Rare Vintage Gold Large Blossom Orchid Leaf Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1980s Vintage Unisex Large Blossom Flourish Orchid Leaf Flower Crystals Chunky Engraved Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. 100% genuine. A...
Gold Plate
Chanel Vintage 1995 Gold Heart Love Relief Logo CC Coco Interlocked Brooch
By Chanel
Located in Wokingham, England
Chanel Vintage 1995 Unisex Heart Love Relief Logo CC Coco Interlocked 95 P Chunky Statement Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. A very beautiful brooch, signed at ...
Gold Plate
Maison Gripoix for Christian Dior Poured Glass Art Nouveau Brooch
Located in New York, NY
Art Nouveau style brooch of aqua poured glass. Silver gilt with pate de verre pear shaped drop.
Christian Dior, unsigned.
Excell...
Silver Plate, Bronze, Enamel
Christian Dior Vintage GROSSE 1962 Gold Interlocked Knot Ribbon Fireworks Brooch
By Henkel and Grosse for Christian Dior
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior GROSSE 1962 Vintage Textured Modernist Interlocked Knot Bow Ribbon Fireworks Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition, only dark spots at back pin...
Gold Plate
Antique Floral Pin with Multi-Colored Crystals, Early 1900s, Gold Plated
Located in Milford, DE
4" x 1.5" (inches) Unveil the allure of yesteryear with this enchanting antique gold-plated pin. This exquisite piece features an antique golden finish with a touch of vintage wear,...
Crystal, Gold Plate
French Art Nouveau flower-shaped brooch, silver, blue enamel and turquoise
Located in VALLADOLID, ES
Exquisite Art Nouveau brooch, circa 1920, France. With an oval profile, it takes the form of a flower. The brooch is made of 925 sterling silver. The petals are adorned with pieces o...
Turquoise, Silver, Enamel
Fendi Vintage Gripoix Red Ruby Flower Circle Crystal Drop Black Bow Brooch
By Fendi
Located in Wokingham, England
Fendi Vintage 1980s Iconic Gripoix Ruby Red Art Glass Flower Circle Crystals Drop Pendant Black Enamel Knot Bow Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very rare to find. High v...
Gold Plate
Christian Dior Vintage Gold Brush Moon Crescent Sparkling Star Crystals Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior Vintage 1980s Unisex Textured Brush Moon Crescent Sparkling Shining Star Crystals Modernist Elegant Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% genuine...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Antique Artist Signed Set HandWrought Peacock Earrings & Brooch
Located in Chicago, IL
This antique Art-Nouveau period American signed metalsmithed set features intricately etched, chased, chiseled and pierced curvaceous peacocks in unusual copper-gilt silver. "Sterlin...
Sterling Silver, Copper
Antique Art Nouveau Diamond 14K Gold Polychrome Enamel Flower Brooch
Located in Munich, Bavaria
This beautiful jewel in the shape of a stylized lily is a fine example of the Art Nouveau art of enamelling. The flower stems are executed in translucent guilloché enamel. The flower...
Diamond, Enamel
Christian Dior 1965 White Milky Opal Olive Green Flower Cabochon Gold Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1965 Vintage White Milky Opal Olive Green Flower Cabochon Marquise Oval Tear Water Drop Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition, not any stones lost, ...
Gold Plate
Art Nouveau Dragonfly Insect Moth Brooch Pin Butterfly Wing Sterling Silver
Located in New York, NY
This is a stunning Art Nouveau - Art Deco Dragonfly Insect Moth Brooch Pin with extraordinary iridescent Butterfly Wings set in Sterling Silver. The natur...
Sterling Silver
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Gold Movable White Oval Pearl Crystals Badge Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Unisex Movable Dangle White Pearl Curved Crystals Badge Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very good condition. Light scratches or colour loss, barely noticeab...
Gold Plate
Plique-à-jour enamel clover brooch in 18 karat gold, Art nouveau
Located in PARIS, FR
Plique-à-jour enamel clover brooch in 18 karat gold. Circular Art Nouveau brooch centered with a four-leaf lucky clover, set with 3 diamonds and decorated with green plique-à-jour en...
Diamond, Gold, Enamel
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage Gold Gripoix Blue Aqua Crystal Fan Chunky Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Yves Saint Laurent YSL Vintage 1980s Gripoix Aqua Blue Oval Whole Sparkling Crystals Fan Palace Baroque Openwork Elegant Modernist Brooch, Gold Plated Very excellent condition, not ...
Gold Plate
ART NOUVEAU Brooch with rose cut diamonds up to 0.35ct 18k gold
Located in The Hague, ZH
18k gold brooch set with rose cut diamonds total approx. 0.35 ct G/H - SI/P - 6.1 cm x 1.4 cm detailed description The brooch is 6.9 cm wide and 1.1 cm high weight: 6.4 grams Set...
Diamond, 18k Gold
14k Yellow Gold Diamond & Pearl Brooch/Watch Holder
By Non Branded
Located in Lexington, KY
This gorgeous Art Nouveau watch holder pin was made in 14k yellow gold with both seed pearls and diamond. The pin features a lovely enamel woman, dre...
Diamond, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel 1997 Large Gold Silver Heart Rose Fire Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Lacroix Vintage Noel 1997 Baroque Large Relief Rose Flame Fire Heart Openwork Modernist Chunky Brooch, Silver Gold Tone Limited edition for designed Christmas 1997. A very...
Gold Plate, Silver Plate
French Art Nouveau Natural Pearls Diamonds 18 Karat Yellow Gold Brooch
Located in Poitiers, FR
Brooch in 18 karat yellow gold, eagle head hallmark. Made of satin-finished gold, this lovely antique brooch is set with a brilliant-cut diamond in the center, with 4x3 natural pearls at the four cardinal points, in a decoration made of the winding of a gold wire. The clasp is a pin with security. Weight of the diamond : 0,17 carat approximately. Diameter of the pearls : 2,5/3 mm approximately. Height : 2,6 cm, width : 2,7 cm, thickness : 6,1 mm approximately. Total weight of the jewel : 4,9 g approximately. Authentic antique jewelry - French work circa 1890s. Small marks of time on the profiles, very little visible. Our opinion : An Art Nouveau jewel...
Pearl, Natural Pearl, Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Extra Long Crystals Glow Leaf Flame Spiral Brooch
Located in Wokingham, England
Christian Dior 1970s Vintage Unisex Extra Long Glow Crystals Spiral Twist Leaf Flame Modernist Brooch, Gold Tone Very excellent condition. Very new. 100% Genuine. A unique piece. ...
Gold Plate